Calypso 3 Carbon Fiber / ZDP189: Perfect

Planterz

Planterz

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My Calypso 3 CF/ZDP came today. I always thought the FRN Calypso Jr (mine's a burgundy ZDP) was near perfect, with the biggest "flaw" being that it's tip-down only (not really a flaw, just my preference is tip-up). I played around with a UKPK in the passaround, and I really liked the size, shape, ergos, and the discrete wire clip (and tip-up carry)

I was a little apprehensive about the Calypso 3 having full liners, because I didn't want a fat knife. My previous experience with similar Spydercos (Manix, 80mm Manix) was that they're too beefy for me, and I wasn't sure the Calypso 3, despite being much smaller, wouldn't still be too beefy.

Imagine my delight and surprise when I find that not only isn't the Calypso 3 too fat, but it's even thinner than the FRN Calypso Jr (due mostly to the lack of grip texturing). Its heft is a bit surprising for a smallish knife, but it feels good in the hand. The ergos are even better than the Calypso Jr. FRN. It feels like it was designed just for my hand. Some people might be irked at the riveted body, but it doesn't bother me. The pivot is still adjustable, so you don't have to worry about it loosening up over time (just retighten it). I like the smooth CF better than the textured CF like on the Military (great knife, way too big for my tastes). I think I would prefer the textured over the smooth on a big knife like the Military, but on a smaller knife, smooth is definitely better.

I bought this knife primarily for discrete, elegant carry that I can take out of the state. Those that know me know that the majority of my daily carry knives aren't legal in many states (automatics and balisongs), and my usual "dress" knife is a Benchmade 32 Morpho balisong. In May I'm leaving the state for 2 weeks and splitting my time between New Mexico (no autos or balis) and Colorado (no autos, balis, or knives over 3.5". If I'm not carrying a balisong, it's a BM710HS, which isn't legal in Colorado. I have a Cocobolo Kopa, which is damn nice and very dressy, but it's a bit small for EDC. Beyond those 2 knives, I really don't have anything else other than my tip-down carry FRN Calypso Jr that doesn't snap or flip open.

I couldn't be happier with the CF/ZDP Calypso 3. My street clothes consist entirely of black denim shorts, and the Caly3 clipped to my pocket almost completely disappears from anything but direct inspection. It's smaller than the 710, 42/43MC, or Bradley Mayhem I carry 90% of the time, but I don't feel "underknifed".

Spyderco hit a grand slam with this knife. The only thing I would change myself is a solid ZDP blade.
 
One more thing; the Spyderhole on the Calypso 3 is a bit bigger than on the FRN Calypso Jr. Definite improvement.
 
I really like the looks of carbon fibre. ANy comments on initial sharpness and edge configuration?

-Cliff
 
Cliff Stamp said:
ANy comments on initial sharpness and edge configuration?
Click to expand...

The edge was thinner than most every production folding knife I've seen and it had no business being that sharp for a buffed-and-belted edge, but it benefits from thinning the edge and polishing it.

One of the best production knives out there today.
 
Cliff Stamp said:
Only you thins Spyderco's Thom, any measurements?

-Cliff
Click to expand...

Don't forget me, I like to pound on my Spydercos flat to the stone, too. I would like to know the factory edge measurements also, just to know how much steel I would need to remove (or have Krein remove) if I ever had enough money to buy a Caly 3 CF/ZDP. After handling the VG-10/G-10 version I fell in love with the ergos and unbelievable smoothness, the CF and ZDP just raise it to another level.

Mike
 
Still trying to figure out how to work my plastic calipers and transform fractions to decimals and millimeters to inches, but it had to be thinned down. It wasn't hippopotamus with a slow metabolism fat, but it still needed 20 seconds on a 120x stone.
 
Yeah I would kind of like FRN/12C27M though. That makes a really nice light working knife and it would be very inexpensive.

-Cliff
 
Hey Planterz,

Thanx for the kind words. Lot of hsitory in that model. Lotta headaches along the way as ell.

Hi Cliff,

Using Sandvik steel in Seki is difficult.

Do you know of a Japanese made equivalent?

sal
 
Sal Glesser said:
Using Sandvik steel in Seki is difficult.

Do you know of a Japanese made equivalent?
Click to expand...

AUS-6 should behave similar. Should being a damning word.

Thanks for suffering those headaches, Sal. A thin-bladed, thin-profiled, lockbacked folder with a very hard edge was just what the doctor ordered. I do wish the factory edge was thinner, but I guess STR is right that I'll always think that. :o :foot:
 
Yeah, easily, AUS-6/12C27 are on almost identical spots on the C/Cr graph. The problem is underhardening of AUS-6A and overly thick edges leaving to it having the reputation of a beater steel (that sounds familiar to me for some reason).

If you go up to 1100C + oil/cold you should be able to reach 59/60 HRC. That might allow you to rename the steel as one of high performance for thin edges due to the edge stability.

-Cliff
 
 
Cliff Stamp said:
I really like the looks of carbon fibre. ANy comments on initial sharpness and edge configuration?

-Cliff
Click to expand...

Mine specs out at 0.018, at the base, middle, and tip. Very consistent. Also, very sharp, easily tree-top trimming. I thought the CF might be too smooth for a good grip, but the handle is so well designed that it is fine. While I'm not a big G10 fan, I like that one with the VG 10 as well.

The only thing that you have to be careful with these babies is that the tip doesn't go very far down into the handle when closed. If you grind away with happy abandon, you might end up with an exposed tip when it's closed. Not that I've done that. :rolleyes:

I had thought that the Caly Jr. was the ultimate pocket clip knife, until I met the Caly 3. This baby was worth the blood, sweat, and tears, Sal. I know it's easy for me to talk since I didn't do anything except buy it, but it is a great little knife. It's fit and finish are very, very good, and cutting superb. The Jr and 3 are my main "clip knife" rotations in my EDC.

I'm actually saving mine, not using it until a family reunion in the summer. I want to show my sisters what tree-top trimming means, they don't quite believe me (and one is a surgeon). I want to show them how a high quality manufacturer ships it's knives.


Stock on top, a Sodak hack job at thinning the edge (the grey Caly Jr.) in middle, a professional regrind at bottom:

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/sodak_photos/p1010010-1.jpg
 
sodak said:
The only thing that you have to be careful with these babies is that the tip doesn't go very far down into the handle when closed. If you grind away with happy abandon, you might end up with an exposed tip when it's closed. Not that I've done that.
Click to expand...

So I'm not the only one! Curtis Womack of http://1sharpknife.com recommends fixing tips by grinding from the spine to the edge to prevent that very same occurrence. Saved me from exchanging a Wilsonized blade with that issue for a fresh blade with the issue of not being Wilsonized.

sodak said:
I had thought that the Caly Jr. was the ultimate pocket clip knife, until I met the Caly 3.
Click to expand...

The G10 version is amazing and yet it left me a little cold. The carbon-fiber version is thinner and less hungry for denim.

Huugh,

Thanks for the links! The top of my large, pretty bevel is between 0.01" and 0.012" :o As Cypress Hill once said "Fat boy on a diet/don't try it..."

Still, with a shoulder width of 0.012" peeling down 0.04" to the edge at the ricasso and 0.079" near the tip (with microbevel set at who knows what), it makes cutting cardboard very fast and fun (even when ucky sticky tape is present).
 
sodak said:
Mine specs out at 0.018, at the base, middle, and tip.
Click to expand...

You know it is pretty bad when you look at that in need of a bit of a regrind. Alvin is a pretty bad influence. In general though, that is a very high performance bevel.

thombrogan said:
The top of my large, pretty bevel is between 0.01" and 0.012"
Click to expand...

Ok that is better, but about 0.005" would be nicer. I think we need a special sprint run, we just need a group name.

-Cliff
 
0.13mm at the shoulder? in a folder? I've used foil thicker than that. My hollow ground straight razor is 0.15mm and a US personna double edge razor blade is about 0.09mm. I'm all for "geometry cuts", but you guys are crazy. The shoulder of the microbevel on my leek is 0.12mm thick and the primary edge bevel is 1.30mm high. I must be missing something, how far from the edge are you talking about having a 0.13mm thickness?
 
sputnick said:
0.13mm at the shoulder? in a folder? I've used foil thicker than that. My hollow ground straight razor is 0.15mm and a US personna double edge razor blade is about 0.09mm. I'm all for "geometry cuts", but you guys are crazy. The shoulder of the microbevel on my leek is 0.12mm thick and the primary edge bevel is 1.30mm high. I must be missing something, how far from the edge are you talking about having a 0.13mm thickness?
Click to expand...

Thanks for pointing that out, my measurements are in inches, I should have said that. I measured the edge shoulder, where the edge grind meets the primary grind with my calipers. Sorry for the confusion!

Yeah, straight razors are pretty much the ultimate in thin and high performance!
 
Cliff Stamp said:
You know it is pretty bad when you look at that in need of a bit of a regrind. Alvin is a pretty bad influence. In general though, that is a very high performance bevel.
Click to expand...

We are sick people, and there is no cure for our polluted minds.

Cliff Stamp said:
Ok that is better, but about 0.005" would be nicer. I think we need a special sprint run, we just need a group name.

-Cliff
Click to expand...

Now you're talking. I have a feeling I'll still have to ship off my knives to Krein for those edges thicknesses, but we can always hope for a factory edge like that.

Mike
 
sodak: I wasn't correcting you, I was referring to cliffs request for a 0.005" edge thickness. I generally convert standard to metric when comparing against my own numbers to promote the use of the system (and the numbers work better in my head). 0.018" doesn't mean much to me but 0.46mm does even though they are the same thing. On that note, i think all edge thicknesses should be accompanied with an edge width. Makes comparisons more useful.
 
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