You said it. Skills and knowledge compensate for any inherent danger in the tool.
Still, I believe a hatchet has more inherent risk to your legs, but I am not afraid to use one. I use a hatchet or hawk exclusively for my needs.
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Camping axe recommendations
- Thread starter Rockstarter
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Still, I believe a hatchet has more inherent risk to your legs, but I am not afraid to use one. I use a hatchet or hawk exclusively for my needs.
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With respect I disagree.
That's the same as the locking knife is "safer" than a slip-joint argument, only in the hands of the uneducated.........
What about a Machete?
Many people have stuck one into their leg but that isn't the fault of the Machete is it? A machete isn't dangerous if you know how to use one, if you don't it's a different story........ Or should Machetes have long handles so it's not possible to contact a leg?
I'll drop it now because it's more of "don't run with scissors" kind of thing, a person can be a danger to themselves or the blame can be shifted elsewhere so they don't have to take responsibility for their actions, it's a slippery slope where ultimately everything ends up wrapped in cotton wool so nobody, no matter how stupid hurts themselves or someone else.
Part of the education is understanding the inherent risks. With a hatchet, there is a risk of hitting your leg if you miss or over-swing, so you use the tool understanding how to minimize this risk. You notice how every time you say something like this, you always have to follow it with some disclaimer? It's because tools have inherent limitations, and it takes knowledge and practice to work safely within the limitations.
I am just using my first friction folder without an exposed tang. I am loving it, but if I hand it to my wife, you bet I will warn her that it doesn't lock, and to be careful about stabbing.You are preaching to the choir. In this thread, I was one in the minority advocating the axe, most people were saying that axes are too dangerous, and a big blade was better.
Square_peg
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Used properly the carpenter's adze is a dangerous tool.
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D
dogstar
, yes we agree, I just have a problem (being pedantic mainly 
) with any tool being called dangerous, safe, safer or less safe than another as I think it just plays into the hands of those who like to legislate to "protect us from ourselves", how can we defend ourselves when we've used these terms?
No tool is "dangerous, safe or unsafe" they are inanimate objects that need human input.
A long handle axe is safer than a short handle axe...
Or
A short handle axe needs more care than a long handle axe?
One statement blames the tool, the other cautions against misuse.
Edit- and off topic.....sorry
) with any tool being called dangerous, safe, safer or less safe than another as I think it just plays into the hands of those who like to legislate to "protect us from ourselves", how can we defend ourselves when we've used these terms?No tool is "dangerous, safe or unsafe" they are inanimate objects that need human input.
A long handle axe is safer than a short handle axe...
Or
A short handle axe needs more care than a long handle axe?
One statement blames the tool, the other cautions against misuse.
Edit- and off topic.....sorry
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These are two sides of the same coin. I don't want to hijack this thread any further.
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scdub
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A few folks have asked about use.
Is this car camping or backpacking?
Is it for wood splitting, felling/emergency shelter building?
Snow camping??
A large axe can do work more efficiently, smaller packs farther. Once you decide on use/size range I think you’ll get better suggestions.
I like my H&B Forge Boys Hawk for hiking, and I’ll bring my recently refurbished/re-hafted Collins double bit next time I’m car camping in the Sierras for firewood.
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scdub
I recently gave away my CS Frontier hawk, was looking at possible replacements. Do you know the head weight and the total weight of that Boy's hawk? Also, how do you like using it? Thanks a bunch!
scdub
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The head on mine is 9oz. Handle is also 9oz.
I like it a lot.
A few things to know:
1) The small camp hawk is about the same weight but the handle is very thin. The Boys Hawk handle is full diameter.
2) Heads are press-fit and therefore very difficult to remove. Probably not recommended unless you know what you’re doing. I recon you could request one with the head un-hafted too if you really want that functionality.
3) Mine came with a “working edge” and a fairly thick grind for the size of the hawk. I thinned it a bit and am still planning to thin it a bit more for better penetration.
4) Lead time can be long. Both of the hawks I’ve bought from them took probably 16 weeks to arrive.
5) The value on these makes an imperfect edge and long wait completely acceptable. These are bi-metal, hand-forge-welded made by one guy in his shop.
6) I used this hawk in direct comparison to the CS Frontier Hawk (after having thinned the edges of both). With a slightly thinner grind but lighter weight and with a shorter (and thinner) handle than the CS, the H&B chopped almost exactly as well.
I like it a lot.
A few things to know:
1) The small camp hawk is about the same weight but the handle is very thin. The Boys Hawk handle is full diameter.
2) Heads are press-fit and therefore very difficult to remove. Probably not recommended unless you know what you’re doing. I recon you could request one with the head un-hafted too if you really want that functionality.
3) Mine came with a “working edge” and a fairly thick grind for the size of the hawk. I thinned it a bit and am still planning to thin it a bit more for better penetration.
4) Lead time can be long. Both of the hawks I’ve bought from them took probably 16 weeks to arrive.
5) The value on these makes an imperfect edge and long wait completely acceptable. These are bi-metal, hand-forge-welded made by one guy in his shop.
6) I used this hawk in direct comparison to the CS Frontier Hawk (after having thinned the edges of both). With a slightly thinner grind but lighter weight and with a shorter (and thinner) handle than the CS, the H&B chopped almost exactly as well.
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Thank you for the details and testing information. I'm used to reprofiling a new hawk. Gotta love a good, lightweight hawk!
My first car-camping axe was the venerable Estwing already mentioned, as also already mentioned it is sticky and not great for splitting due to the thinness of the head though it is indeed nigh indestructible. My current axe is a junk-store $5 find that the fine folks on this forum helped me ID as a Wetterlings, 3/4 axe size. For a camp axe I like a 24-26 inch handle and a 2-3 lb head which will allow me to process firewood and chop small trees/ poles if needed. Big enough for two hands but small enough that it can be wielded one-handed as well. The classic Hudsons Bay pattern is on the small end of two-handers and although on the light side for splitting larger logs I find it very handy for small firewood, cutting and trimming poles, peeling bark, and even rough carving. The "bearded" blade on the HB permits for a choked up grip that make it function as a hand axe or ulu and I've seen folks who will use it to start a fire then after a quick wipe-off, use the same axe to cut up the meat for dinner.
From what I remember in the Boy Scouts the idea was that the axe should be long enough that when splitting, if you missed, the axe would hit the ground before it got to your foot or your shin (I once, long ago, ignored that advice and a hidden knot in a chunk of pine sent a lovely Norlund HB pattern into my right shinbone). They also advocated kneeling down if splitting with a shorter handled axe for the same reason.
More forgiving then.
Regardless of the semantics. It is still a real factor.
I have a fiskars x5 and it is a cut yourself machine. I am afraid to lend it out invaders I get it back with extra body parts.
For scrounging firewood in a wide range of environments I use a Council Tools Boy's axe and a cheap handsaw from the local Ace hardware store. Old downed wood is full of dirt, rocks, moss, bugs, hardened resin, charcoal, and poop (from something). The little Boy's axe packs enough punch to break down larger pieces into manageable 4' to 8' lengths that I can walk back to camp with on my shoulder. Once there I can set up some sort of stable platform to saw things to the dimension I want. Often I don't bother and just feed the larger wood in the fire a little at a time. Bucking dry, hard wood (even pine) into little two foot pieces wastes a lot of chips, exposes your axe blade to dirt underfoot at speed over and over again, and requires a silly balancing/stabilizing act as the logs gets shorter and shorter. I did it for years and have come up with my own safety precautions and techniques that have mitigated the effects of errant swings when tired and glancing blows off hidden knots, etc. The unpleasant truth is that axes are not designed to chop/buck seasoned wood. They're made (almost exclusively) for green wood. A standard one-handed carpenters saw is just so much simpler in every way. Not as romantic, I'll grant you that. Just simpler.
I also keep a cheap, weather resistant full-sized axe strapped to my vehicle somewhere inconspicuous. If I luck into some big rounds someone's left in the woods I can split them up in a couple of swings or I can use it to cut through larger downed trees that are blocking a road I want to take or in the way of a potential camp site. A Fiskars would probably work. An Estwing is too slender for larger splitting chores in my opinion so it's not a double duty tool. I use a no-name Chinese made junker with a fiberglass handle. Most of the time it just sits there almost invisible to the passers by.
I have dozens of vintage axes but these are what I take. I don't have to worry about them going missing or getting a chip in the blade. In a true survival situation or if the world ended tomorrow I would bring out my best. If you're of smaller stature then pick your tools to fit your size and build fires that are in proportion to your physical stature. If you can bandy about a 3.5lb head on a 36" haft then great! For some, though, the "boy's axe" is full-sized. No need to macho up and swing a 5 pounder. You occasionally see small men and women in timbersports swinging full-blown racing axes and their technique and accuracy falls apart after a few chops. They'd be better off with something more suited to their size, strength, and stamina. Do what's right for you in this regard.
If I'm in a canoe for the day or just bumming around the woods I'll bring either a HB pattern or one of these.
And a decent knife.
I also keep a cheap, weather resistant full-sized axe strapped to my vehicle somewhere inconspicuous. If I luck into some big rounds someone's left in the woods I can split them up in a couple of swings or I can use it to cut through larger downed trees that are blocking a road I want to take or in the way of a potential camp site. A Fiskars would probably work. An Estwing is too slender for larger splitting chores in my opinion so it's not a double duty tool. I use a no-name Chinese made junker with a fiberglass handle. Most of the time it just sits there almost invisible to the passers by.
I have dozens of vintage axes but these are what I take. I don't have to worry about them going missing or getting a chip in the blade. In a true survival situation or if the world ended tomorrow I would bring out my best. If you're of smaller stature then pick your tools to fit your size and build fires that are in proportion to your physical stature. If you can bandy about a 3.5lb head on a 36" haft then great! For some, though, the "boy's axe" is full-sized. No need to macho up and swing a 5 pounder. You occasionally see small men and women in timbersports swinging full-blown racing axes and their technique and accuracy falls apart after a few chops. They'd be better off with something more suited to their size, strength, and stamina. Do what's right for you in this regard.
If I'm in a canoe for the day or just bumming around the woods I'll bring either a HB pattern or one of these.
And a decent knife.
Great post from a seasoned ax man, thank you
