Originally posted by Skunkabilly
Forgot to ask, am I talking an actual saw or one of the ones that are like a chain and roll up, or one that is like a folding knife?
I advocate taking a folding pruning saw, as opposed to the chain/wire roll-up saws. Pruning saws are available at gardening shops, your local home center (Home Depot, Lowe's, etc), some hardware stores, or online. They are available in either folding or fixed blade configuration. I recommend the folding ones because they become shorter for throwing in your pack and when they are folded the teeth are covered. Some pruning saws have replacable blades, which is a very nice feature.
FrankK's suggestion for Japanese saws (cut on the pull stroke) with induction hardened teeth is on the money. My favorite one is from Frank Tashiro in Seattle and costs $30. His homepage is
http://www.tashirohardware.com/ Info on his folding Pocket Saw can be seen at
http://www.tashirohardware.com/special.html
I line up with the others who have suggested a three-tool setup:
1. folding saw for felling/sectioning bigger branches
2. midsize fixed blade for batoning split wood out of sawn rounds and other heavy cutting/chopping tasks
3. SAK or other small thin blade for more delicate cutting chores
Another point that was hinted at, but I don't think was specifically stated, is that wood that is dry enough to burn and small enough for firestarting should break when it is bent, not flex or bounce. If the branch is so big it won't break under body weight, use smaller wood to get your fire going and simply feed the end of the "too big" log into the fire. My experience has been that most folks try to use "too big" wood too soon in their firemaking. There was an old saying about fires used by indians and white settlers that makes sense to me. "The indian makes a little fire and stands close to it. The white settler makes a big fire and has to stand back from it."
