Can a welded damascus stack be left alone?

F

FunkCoaster

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Nov 2, 2010
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If I stack some 1084 and 15N20 steel and mig weld the corners + rebar handle, is there any "shelf life" on it?

I plan to weld a few stacks on day 1, and forge them on day 3.

I don't recall the source, but someone suggested to start the forging process immediately after welding a damascus stack together to avoid filler material causing corrosion.
 
I would say you run the risk of your material rusting between each other and possibly causing issues when welding. Is your welder and forge in different locations?
 
FunkCoaster said:
If I stack some 1084 and 15N20 steel and mig weld the corners + rebar handle, is there any "shelf life" on it?

I plan to weld a few stacks on day 1, and forge them on day 3.

I don't recall the source, but someone suggested to start the forging process immediately after welding a damascus stack together to avoid filler material causing corrosion.
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Get a can of kerosene or diesel and put the billets in it. It'll protect the steel, and can be used as flux.
 
I have left billets for over a year before using them. Of course I live where there is very low humidity.
 
Matt R said:
If rust isn't a problem then why do folks always say to make sure your steel is clean before welding them up? I am not arguing just trying to learn.
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Natlek said:
Because rust can not appear inside ?
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Rust will not hinder welded, but scale will.
I've done many, many billets with rusty 15n20 and never had a problem,
but I always grind any scale off bar stock before stacking up.
 
Man. You guys are welding rusty steel up no problem and I can't even get a fresh clean stack to weld all the way unless it's a dry weld. I really suck.
 
All very helpful, thank you.
Matt R, indeed, I don't have a welder (sad face) so I'll travel a ways to get that done. And this is a hobby pursuit, so I won't have the time to do the forging on the same day, especially since I will be using a hand hammer.

Current plan is to weld it up, bring it home, and plop it in a confined kerosene box. Then forge it when I'm able. First attempt will be san mai, then a 9-layer billet if that works out okay.
 
Rust is just iron oxide, which happens during most Damascus welding anyway.
In a fuel rich atmosphere converts back to iron and welds right up.
Your flux in a normal welding situation will take care of it.

Now, sometimes, during san-mai billets being welded, as they cool they can contract and suck air back in which may contaminate the layers.

Right now I've got a 1095/15n20 billet still on the handle that I put together in July. I think I'm going to weld them next week. And I have a san-mai billet that I put together the same time before I moved from Minnesota two months ago.

No worries.
 
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