Can anyone recommend a good quench oil?

Joined
Mar 1, 2007
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I need help finding a good quench oil for 5160 and 52100 steel. I have tried mcmaster carr brand just wanted to find something a little better. Thanks in advance for the help.
 
How do you mean "Better"?

Is there a problem with McMaster quenchant?

I am going down there to pick some up so any thing you know might change that.
 
I'm not saying their product is bad. But when I used it I had two blades to crack and two to warp out of the six I heat treated. I only make a few knives so that was huge to me. More than likely it was something I did wrong but I'm just trying to eliminate the problem. I've only used veg. or canola oil in the past never much problem. I was only trying to get better quench oil.
 
Which quenchant did you use and what steel where you quenching?
 
I'm not saying their product is bad. More than likely it was something I did wrong .

You've already answered your own question, most likely. But, which Mcmaster Carr oil are you using? Maybe you've got one that's too fast for those steels.
 
Like Danbo said, there is fast oil and slow oil. Sounds like you used the fast oil for these steels that need slow oil.
 
Or overheated the blades. How hot did you get them.
Better yet, describe your process including steel type and what you use for heating and how you judge temps

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Also whether you edge quench or fully immerse the blade. This info is critical for troubleshooting your process.
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Or overheated the blades. How hot did you get them.
Better yet, describe your process including steel type and what you use for heating and how you judge temps

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My guess would be overheating. Before I got my Evenheat up and running, I attempted to use a forge. I've got to be THE worst forge heat treater in the World, because I had lots of cracked and warped blades. Now, I set the oven to a certain temperature(my oven fluctuates 10 degrees either way for some reason, but that's close enough) and now I have very little problems. As long as I do my full quench properly(keep the blade straight and not have any side to side movement), my blades come out relatively straight and what warpage I do get, I can remedy quickly.
 
I am currently using my forge to heat treat. I test with a magnet. I am also using the fast oil from McMaster Carr. Sounds like I am more than likely getting my steel too hot and also using too fast of oil. Thank you for the help, very much appreciated.
 
Do you edge quench or fully immerse? Also what steel? You have only given half the pieces to the puzzle. Any conclusions like you have expressed are premature.

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Thanks Brian. Had not reread the initial post. Question still remains, edge quench or full immersion?

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5160 and 52100 are both high enough alloy to use a medium speed quench oil. A fast oil may be more than you need, but I doubt it would cause cracking and breaking blades in these steels. I use my Parks #50 on both with no problems.

I would look at my shaping and HT from beginning to end and see if I spotted any problem areas. Posting it here might let someone spot what seems OK to you. BTW, did the blades break and warp in the quench, when cooling, when straightening, or later?

It should cover:
Blade shape and projected use
Steel type and source, and assurance of type - Is it really what you think it is?
Shaping method - forge or grind, and any normalizations or other heat processes done
Pre-hardening treatment - cycling ,normalizing, stress relief, straightening, etc.
HT regimen - temps times equipment, exact type of quenchant and temperature, straightening techniques,etc.
Post hardening treatment - how soon to temper, how long and how many times, type of equipment, any straightening, etc.
Post HT process if applicable - additional straightening, etc.
 
I agree with Stacy, I use Parks #50 on 5160 & 52100 and have never cracked a blade and they get as hard as woodpecker lips. About the only thing I use slow oil on is O1 & L6. I also use full immersion on everything.
 
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