Can anyone tell me how to sharpen a katana?

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richard j said:
you have a burr and it needs to be removed by stropping. if that is all it needs i can run it over the slotted wheel a few times and have it sharp. if you pay return shipping and insurance i'll do it for free :D.
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Richard, thanks a lot for that. I'll send you the Waki tomorrow along with a return shipping label. if you decide that it needs more than just the light stropping, just shoot me an email to the email address you currently have, and i'll mail you a money order.

I was trying to avoid shipping it, but at this point, i think i'd rather leave it to a professional. I'm really clueless
 
if the edge just has a burr then all it probably needs is ran on the slotted wheel. send me a closeup of the edge if you can.
 
So many questions...

I wonder why someone wants to polish a cheap $100 knock-off SSO.

I wonder why anyone would want a "razor edge" on a cheap $100 SSO.

I wonder why anyone would worry about whether he is going to ruin the cheap $100 SSO by trying to polish/sharpen it.

I wonder why I care enough to even ask these questions. :)
 
I'll try to take some pictures tonight of the burr. Taking pictures up close of something shiny is not easy
 
tryppyr said:
So many questions...

I wonder why someone wants to polish a cheap $100 knock-off SSO.

I wonder why anyone would want a "razor edge" on a cheap $100 SSO.

I wonder why anyone would worry about whether he is going to ruin the cheap $100 SSO by trying to polish/sharpen it.

I wonder why I care enough to even ask these questions. :)
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please define SSO so that i can decide if i am interested in the question

thanks
 
OIC... lol.

unless i'm mistaken, a 20" blade, in 5160 steel would be a sword... around here, a SSO would be anything in stainless... or am i wrong?
 
Rick Marchand said:
Very true... It scares me when folks talk about sharpening convex geometry at the edge area only. I also stay clear of mousepads and soft backing. You should be removing material from the entire blade face(from the shinogi to the edge)... which is why I prefer the paddles for light maintenence and stones for more involved refurbishing.

I do not advise using a belt grinder with abrasives unless you are very experienced.... then again, those experienced with traditional Japanese geometry probably wouldn't use a belt grinder... lol.
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My suggestion of a belt sander was based on your information that it has a convex edge. If it is a convexed, than a belt sander is the easiest and most efficient way I can think of to sharpen. Little 1X30 sanders take less than an hour to figure out for anybody that got a C grade or higher in shop class and has a basic understanding of what a convex is.

I was suggesting a way to sharpen a long convex blade, not refine a long convex blade.
 
thanks for the help guys. I'd appreciate it if a mod would lock this thread to make room for the next guy to get his questions answered. I think i have my answer
 
BePrepared said:
OIC... lol.

unless i'm mistaken, a 20" blade, in 5160 steel would be a sword... around here, a SSO would be anything in stainless... or am i wrong?
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I have been staying out of this so far but . . .
Sword Shaped Object = something that looks like a sword but would not perform like one when it was used as one. The Hanwei weapons are not bad for production pieces, better than pretty much anything else coming out of China. A lot of people use them for competition tamashigiri cutting with success, I would not consider the Tac Washi to be a competition grade cutting sword. You can sharpen it so it will work well (I would avoid powered dry sharpening, belt grinders, paper wheels, etc. and sharpen by hand on wetted stones, but it's your money) Fill in your profile

-Page
 
sunshadow said:
I have been staying out of this so far but . . .
Sword Shaped Object = something that looks like a sword but would not perform like one when it was used as one. The Hanwei weapons are not bad for production pieces, better than pretty much anything else coming out of China. A lot of people use them for competition tamashigiri cutting with success, I would not consider the Tac Washi to be a competition grade cutting sword. You can sharpen it so it will work well (I would avoid powered dry sharpening, belt grinders, paper wheels, etc. and sharpen by hand on wetted stones, but it's your money) Fill in your profile

-Page
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Thanks in advance for any clarity you can provide. Are you saying that traditional edges aren't convex or that it is simply easier for a novice to sharpen a convex on a flat stone?
 
sunshadow said:
I have been staying out of this so far but . . .
Sword Shaped Object = something that looks like a sword but would not perform like one when it was used as one.
-Page
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That's basically the definition I was taught. Now the only thng to define is what is the performance characteristic that defines a real sword.

And to be honest, I was being a bit facetious in my original reply. I know nothing about swords... which is why the last question on my list was the least facetious of them all. :)
 
BePrepared.... I believe you can close your own thread as a registered user... maybe... I forget.

There seems to be a communication gap here.... the OP is asking how he can sharpen the blade he has. Not a traditional Japanese blade. He wants to have fun cuttin' stuff up. I don't think there is a comparison being made. Our goal should be helping this guy out so he doesn't haphazardly ruin his blade....

I think a powered belt grinder is a bad idea as it would remove too much material and risk overheating the edge. Stones can work well but they are expensive and hard to master. Automotive wet/dry is the tool of choice for the amature convex enthusiast. My only suggestion is to avoid soft backing as it will roll the edge.

..... or send it to Richard for the paper wheel treatment.

This is nothing to get stressed about folks..... it's all fun.



Rick
 
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Y
1966c10 said:
Thanks in advance for any clarity you can provide. Are you saying that traditional edges aren't convex or that it is simply easier for a novice to sharpen a convex on a flat stone?
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I am saying that you will be best served by sharpening on a stone. Hanwei Japanese swords typically come reasonably Sharp. Probably sharper than you will get with sandpaper, get a Chinese waterstone and follow the directions that come with it and if you use the existing bevel as a guide you should be able to improve what you have

-Page
 
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