Can flipping open a folder be damaging?

patrickb

patrickb

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Dec 29, 2003
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I usually don't do this as I don't seem to be capable or coordinated enough :~) However, my Benchmade 770 with the Axis lock mechanism can be opened so quickly, I have a tendency to flick it open with a little wrist motion. It's possible to simply pull and hold down the Axis lock mechanism (on both sides) when the blade is in the closed & locked position and give the knife a little wrist flick and the blade pops all the way out and locks open. It can also be closed this way.

This seems to place *much* more stress on the mechanism than using the thumb stud (which, incidentally works adequately). I'm just wondering if this practice is as inadvisable as it would seem to be.

-pb
 
Psh. I say, if that damages the knife, then the knife wasn't worth a crap in the first place. I have very high expectations of my tools.

On the other hand, you have a 770, and that's a bit more of a gentleman's knife, so maybe you shouldn't expect so much, as it is designed a bit more for comfort, looks, style, etc.

I frequently flick open my 770 in a similar fashion and have never had a problem. I can tell you that, although the 770 is a gent's knife, it is more resilient than you might expect.
 
It depends on the knife.

For Benchmades, flick away. I saw the Benchmade reps at a show doing the same thing. Spyderco doesn't care either. However, for Sebenzas, CRK will not honor the warranty for knives that have been flicked. Elishewitz says the same thing, but Darrell Ralph says, go ahead...flick my knife.
 
There's flicking and then there is FLICKING. It is the FLICKING that could eventually damage a knife.
 
I use all thumb when flicking and my Benchmade 943 is still just as tight as the day I bought it. I think that putting a lot of wrist motion in the flick might put excess stress on the stop pin but that is for you to decide. I say flick away.:D
 
I broke my CRKT M16 flipping it, wore out the liner lock and now I can push it closed even when the lock is fully engaged =(
 
I flick all of my folders and none of them show any significant signs of wear.
If Chris Reeve thinks that his Sebenzas do not stand up to that kind of "abuse", then they're probably not good enough for me...granted, AFAIK Columbia River shares his opinion and I have not encountered any problems with the CRKTs I've been flicking countless times, but a folder that costs as much as the Sebenza should have a warranty that covers damages that might result from inertia openings.
 
My brand new 770 is still a bit stiff in the joint, so the flick takes a real effort. I got hooked on flicking with my Mini-Grip (and the Commander before that, but the pivot pin then loosens too quickly for my liking), so I guess I'll just flick away until it gets in line. I haven't tried a Sebenza or Strider, but for a really satisfying "CLICK!", IMHO nothing beats the Tomcat.
 
Is "flicking" hard on a knife? Yes.

But a well-built folder can take that sort of use.

It's like asking if driving off-road is hard on a car. Yes, it is. And some cars will be quickly destroyed by that sort of abuse. But if the vehicle is designed and built for it, then off you go. Off-roading with a Corvette is misuse and abuse of the product. Off-roading with a Land Rover is expected; the vehicle is designed and built to withstand it.

If you like to go off-roading, then just be sure that you get the right kind of vehicle and the go to it.
 
PatrickB,

The type of flicking you mentioned, pulling back on the axis bar, flicking your wrist enough to send the blade travelling, and releasing the bar so that the knife locks open is fine. The stop pin on axis-locked Benchmades is reinforced with an outer layer of steel because they know you'll be flicking your knives open thousands of times. Often, on the larger Benchmades, the outer layer comes loose and rattles when the knife is closed. On a 770, you should be fine forever.
 
The secret is to flip it open, but to only use enough force to gently click it in place.

The down side to being gentle is that it won't make that neat sound when it's snapped open:(
 
Originally posted by patrickb
I usually don't do this as I don't seem to be capable or coordinated enough :~) However, my Benchmade 770 with the Axis lock mechanism can be opened so quickly, I have a tendency to flick it open with a little wrist motion. It's possible to simply pull and hold down the Axis lock mechanism (on both sides) when the blade is in the closed & locked position and give the knife a little wrist flick and the blade pops all the way out and locks open. It can also be closed this way.

This seems to place *much* more stress on the mechanism than using the thumb stud (which, incidentally works adequately). I'm just wondering if this practice is as inadvisable as it would seem to be.

-pb
Click to expand...
it all depends upon the amount of force you use when flicking, and how often you flick it. i'm sure any knife over time can be hard-flicked into a point of diminished mechanical or structural integrity.

my method is to make sure each flick has just enough force to swing the blade open & engaged, and no more. there's a difference between slamming it open & swinging it open just enough for engagement. i practice flicking to the point where i have just enough control to flick it a milimeter or so from full engagement, then i let it "fall" into the locked position with either a subtle wrist movement or even change of angle so gravity can assist the blade into engagement. having practiced, i can flick open my knives with a smooth gentleness equivalent to opening it without inertia.

i think continual flicking is necessary at first to loosen & smooth out the knife's mechanism. but once you feel your knife is sufficiently broken in, i suggest you resist the urge to flick it continuously like you did in the break-in phase.

[disclaimer: i don't apply this level of carefulness to cheaper factory knives, just the expensive customs, whose value i try to preserve to the nth degree. in fact, i say beat the shit out of your factory knives, just buy new ones if they get rickety!]
 
To add to what others have said... In many knives, flicking hard causes a little flex in the stop pin and allows the lock to over engage making release of the lock much tighter and subsequently runs the risk of causing premature wear to the lock mechanism (ala PR's broken CRK&T). It also causes a lot of shear pressure to the pivot pin.

I am not a flicker because I think it's unnecessary but I would think any knife that is also made as an automatic should easily handle being flicked since there's not much difference. Also knives that have heavy stop pins are better equipped to handle the impact. Not all companies heat treat their stop pins and/or pivot pins, this is just a knife begging to be broken by flipping.

Axis locks are born flippers because of the ability to release the tension on the blade as many have mentioned.

I think it really depends on the knives in questions as to whether it's bad or not.
 
I have gotten to the point that I only flick my AXIS locks or tang lock knives. I guess it just feels natural to be able to flick open a 710 or Grip. I don't like to flick open linerlocks just because of the high tolerances and the risk of inducing blade play.
Matt
 
Overtime flipping open a liner lock, or an axis lock will wear on the blade stop. Much of the wear depends on what the blade, the blade stop is made of and the frequency it is done. Usually on a well made folder, such as a benchmade, it will wear some, but not as much as an in-expensive folder.
 
I usually avoid flicking open knives. To me it is unecessary(ms?) and I can open my knife just as well with the thumbstud. Now I could see how in some situations(SD) that it would be quicker. The more you avoid hard wear on a knife the longer it will last.
 
I'm a born flicker and have been using this method for YEARS. I think though that you can over do it. I've seen people loosen the pivot so a simple wrist flick sends the blade out and I've also seen said people sling the blade hard enough to make a loud crack. I just don't think that is good in the long run and I do not do the same to my folders. I like a tight pivot and like T. Erdelyi said the secret is to get enough force and have the blade "drop" into lock up. I carry a variety of large Sebenza's and this is how I open them. It is a real pleasure to see that blade just glide open and then fall into lockup.
 
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