Can I bring the bevel higher?

Yes I was going back and forth. It seems I am on the right track. I may have gotten to excited w the chainsaw file and the plunge lines are a bit deep and high. The raised bevel will take care of that I hope. My partner in this will be here later and I can share this help from you guys w him. Thank you. I'll keep you posted
Pay special attention on edge .Should be straight and in center of blade from plunge to tip , symmetrical bevels will help you when you HT knife not to bend ......
 
Drag bend part keep marker in hole? I may be so new I did not understand that I really appreciate you guys helping me. A lot!
Hi Johnny. Hard to see in Natlek's photo, but he's talking about the piece with the holes in it above the blade. That's just a piece of strap steel with a little 90 degree bend at the top. Put the marker in one of the holes, and use the angle to catch the edge of the blade to do basically the same thing that your calipers did.
 
Hello Johnny, Welcome! Get yourself & your buddy HEPA rated Respirators, Micarta releases Formaldehyde when you grind it. It will pickle your brain over time. Along with all of the other fine dust we make will destroy your lungs as well.. Be safe & have Fun!:thumbsup:
 
Johnny, you could also try making a filing jig like the one in this video. If you have a 2x72 on the way, you might just use this video to give you some ideas of how to rig something similar with stuff you have lying around to give you more precise control of your bevels. Good luck, everything seems hard when you're starting out, don't get discouraged. A 2x72 is a super useful tool, looking forward to seeing what you make once you get going with it. Cheers.
 
Hi Johnny. Hard to see in Natlek's photo, but he's talking about the piece with the holes in it above the blade. That's just a piece of strap steel with a little 90 degree bend at the top. Put the marker in one of the holes, and use the angle to catch the edge of the blade to do basically the same thing that your calipers did.
I see what he's saying now
It's the same almost as using calipers. I didn't see the piece of metal a few days ago in the photo. I kept looking at the tang holes lol
 
Johnny, you could also try making a filing jig like the one in this video. If you have a 2x72 on the way, you might just use this video to give you some ideas of how to rig something similar with stuff you have lying around to give you more precise control of your bevels. Good luck, everything seems hard when you're starting out, don't get discouraged. A 2x72 is a super useful tool, looking forward to seeing what you make once you get going with it. Cheers.


Thank you so much. I'm working on a filing jig. I am picking up some angle iron today if I find it. And some nuts and bolts to make it up and down. Also a couple good respirators
 
Also I built a filing jig credit to Mr Gough. I know some people don't like that but it's helping me bring the bevels higher. Question- if I'm now higher on the bevels, just about where I want them... do I keep filing at the higher point and then as I go it brings the bevel down to the edge? Or do I have to keep adjusting to even them out down to the edge? I mean adjust the eye bolt in the jig up or down. I'm thinking just keep filing at the shallow degree where I have it now and it will bring it down to the edge. Sorry guys. My mind is going a million miles a minute. I love this stuff
 
Also I built a filing jig credit to Mr Gough. I know some people don't like that but it's helping me bring the bevels higher. Question- if I'm now higher on the bevels, just about where I want them... do I keep filing at the higher point and then as I go it brings the bevel down to the edge? Or do I have to keep adjusting to even them out down to the edge? I mean adjust the eye bolt in the jig up or down. I'm thinking just keep filing at the shallow degree where I have it now and it will bring it down to the edge. Sorry guys. My mind is going a million miles a minute. I love this stuff
Meditate for a few minutes before grinding, it will help you focus on the task at hand.
I make Culinary Knives and a few camp & field Hunters, Choppers etc. I always do a Full Flat Grind. (FFG) in all of my Knives. If it’s a Chopper, I just start with a thicker Stainless, 440C or AEB-L. I Grind after HT, I get a nice clean Grind , and when I-am done with it, I’m don’t I tape up the blade using (Blue Painter’s Tape)It comes off the easiest & cleanest, then I’m ready for mounting the handle scales.————————————————————Every maker , that’s been making for a any length of time, has a Bucket of Fuc! Up blades in a bucket hidden from view in their shopo_O—-———————Keep these, as your free hand grinding improves , you’ll see ways to morp, these into other blades.........I call these a Design Modification, or DM,;) I started with a 10” Chef, and I DMed it into this :cool: 6” Slicer ;).. Stay safe & have fun. :thumbsup:
 
Thank you guys for the replies. That knife is looking good now. I have another knofe I'm working on and I can't seem to get the top of the bevel line level. That two inch divot situation is killing me. I just want to be able to take a bit off at the top of the bevel at a time. I end up taking too much off. I'm trying every technique I can think of
 
Using a Dayton 2x72. As you can see in the following two pics o can't get the top of the bevel line straight. Too many curves. It seems about 40% of the time I get it right. Too much error. I want them all to look nice. I'm thinking maybe a new belt? Put a glass platen on my machine? A technique I don't know? Take my 45 degree initial bevels deeper?
 
Practice, practice, practice... that’s all it takes. You’re gonna ruin a bunch of steel along the way. That’s just all there is to it.

You can also just stop when you get close, then use a file to finish it up, if you’re doing a flat grind.
 
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