Can I fix the gap?

Patrice Lemée

Patrice Lemée

Joined
Aug 13, 2002
Messages
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I am working on a 14th century "ish" knife for a friend who does reenactment. Thing is I wanted to put a butt plate on there so I now need to put bolsters too. I had already done the handle. It doesn't show on the pic but I have a gap between bolster and handle. Could I put a spacer in there? Or am I just better off redoing the handle?

ned_knife_14th_4.jpg


Thanks for looking.

Pad
 
Pad, for a reenactment piece I wouldn't worry too much about it, but if you want to fill the gap I'd be more inclined to use a liquid filler. I think you could mix up some superglue or epoxy with pigment and inject it into the gap if you'd like. They were FILTHY back then, so a little crudiness wouldn't seem out of place:p Neat looking blade!

Dave
 
If the gap is decent sized, go to home depot and buy a small sheet of copper flashing. tap it into the gap with epox and sand it even. Itll look like you meant to do it.
 
General Specific said:
Pad, for a reenactment piece I wouldn't worry too much about it, but if you want to fill the gap I'd be more inclined to use a liquid filler. I think you could mix up some superglue or epoxy with pigment and inject it into the gap if you'd like. They were FILTHY back then, so a little crudiness wouldn't seem out of place:p Neat looking blade!

Dave
Click to expand...

actually if you read the museum of london book Knives and Scabbards, or look at surviving artifacts you will find that they were actually very well constructed, the knifemakers guild was rather demanding.

Pad, is this the blade on Armor Archive?
I would recut the handle, but that's me. I like Dave Schott's suggestion aesthetically If you do it be sure to match it on the other side at the bolster.

I didn't want to say it on the Archive, but you may want a more flat grind on your next one (as opposed to the convex grind it looks like you have)

just a thought

-Page
 
Yes Page, that' is the same knife.

I agree with you on the grind. My platen sucked big time so I have a hard time getting a nice flat grind. I'll be getting a KFG at the end of summer so that should improve. I just hope that this grind is not too bad for the knife's purpose.

DO you think that the copper spacer would make the knife more contemporary rather than 14th cent. ish? Is so I'll redo the handle.

Thanks for your input.

Pad
 
Padrig said:
Yes Page, that' is the same knife.

I agree with you on the grind. My platen sucked big time so I have a hard time getting a nice flat grind. I'll be getting a KFG at the end of summer so that should improve. I just hope that this grind is not too bad for the knife's purpose.

DO you think that the copper spacer would make the knife more contemporary rather than 14th cent. ish? Is so I'll redo the handle.

Thanks for your input.

Pad
Click to expand...

I didn't see evidence of a spacer like that in any period example, making thin sheets was a bit more of a nuisance. I would think it is more of a contemporary thing. I just thumbed through knives and Scabbards, couldn't find any instances of a thin sheet spacer. Sorry.

-Page

PS are you going to Great Northeastern?
 
it's an SCA event in central Maine, the Quebec group is one of the main groups. I've taught repousse there for the last 2 years

-Page
 
Pad: Cool knife! Sounds like the copper spacer idea is out as it would betray your hopes for a period replica. I don't know how big the gap is, but couldn't you consider an epoxy mixed with sawdust from your handle material? It could come close to a match, depending on your finish/oil/sealer. If you're having troubles grinding the right geometry what about draw filing it?

David: That is a fantastic knife. The burly curls look almost like copper inlays. How do you put your mark on the blade?
 
I don't think I will be able to make it but I will look it up. I have a trailer in Maine.

Repoussé cool!, do you have a website with your work?

Pad
 
Phyl, I am just too lazy to file. :( And I hate it like you would not believe. So in the spirit of doing this for fun I'll wait for the grinder. Thanks for the sawdust idea, good one.

Pad
 
The copper/spacer material trick works well. Here is an extra tip on making it look planned.
Assemble the handle and after the glue is dry (this is when I usually discover the gap), take a hack saw with a fine tooth blade and carefully saw down the gap to the spine. Now you have a even gap. Glue in a piece of copper or other spacer material and finish as has been suggested. If you pick a spacer the exact size of the slit, it will look just like David's knife (well maybe the knife won't ,but the spacer might.)
Stacy
 
You could remove the bolster pins and slide the bolsters toward the handle then redrill for bigger pins or just make new bolsters that hug the handle.
Richard
 
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