Mark Williams
Moderator
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- Nov 28, 2000
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- 4,760
Dont remember what show it was on Steve, but some scientist claimed that Mag North was moving at 10 surface miles per day towards Greenland?
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can I stop at 120 before HT?
- Thread starter blgoode
- Start date
Ivan Campos
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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- Apr 4, 1999
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- 2,509
120, 180, 220, all work about the same for me.
- Joined
- Mar 7, 2003
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Mark Williams said:
That is within the normal range of motion for the magnetic pole. It has been wandering around between northern Greenland and the Queen Charlotte Islands for the last couple of centuries. The magnetic field is thought to be 90% magnetic dipole (a giant bar magnet) generated by the solid Ni/Fe inner core and 10% chaotic fields generated by the molten liquid Ni/Fe outer core.
People don't realize what a dynamic thing the "solid" Earth is.
- Joined
- Dec 3, 1999
- Messages
- 9,437
LOL, you guys crack me up 
(about the little jabs, not the heat-treat stuff 
I like 60 because it gives a nice surface for applying the clay. The Japanese have been draw filing and then water quenching for, uh, how many years?
The advantage draw filing, is that if the striations are going to be stress factors, they run in line with the length of the blade. I have water quenched blades successfully from 60X. Normally for water, I'd recommend going up to 220 or so though or draw filing.
Dave- The reason I like to leave so much for after heat-treat, is control. It's much easier (for me) to grind good, clean, even bevels after the blade is hard. It also leaves me some wiggle room to account for warpage. Even grinding everything as even as I can, and doing a butt-load of thermal cycles, AND using a salt bath at that, I still have some that just think they need to warp.
I'm super anal about my edge and point being dead center in the center line of the blade, and I don't think I could be if I took the blade too thin or final finished before hardening.
Just what works for me though. This is definitely one of those areas that "whatever works for you" really applies
-Nick-
(about the little jabs, not the heat-treat stuff I like 60 because it gives a nice surface for applying the clay. The Japanese have been draw filing and then water quenching for, uh, how many years?
The advantage draw filing, is that if the striations are going to be stress factors, they run in line with the length of the blade. I have water quenched blades successfully from 60X. Normally for water, I'd recommend going up to 220 or so though or draw filing.
Dave- The reason I like to leave so much for after heat-treat, is control. It's much easier (for me) to grind good, clean, even bevels after the blade is hard. It also leaves me some wiggle room to account for warpage. Even grinding everything as even as I can, and doing a butt-load of thermal cycles, AND using a salt bath at that, I still have some that just think they need to warp.
I'm super anal about my edge and point being dead center in the center line of the blade, and I don't think I could be if I took the blade too thin or final finished before hardening.
Just what works for me though. This is definitely one of those areas that "whatever works for you" really applies
-Nick-
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2001
- Messages
- 3,623
I take all my blades to 280 before heat treating, I figure I have so much time in them to this point that a few more minutes on a 280 is just insurance against making a piece of scrap.
Have fun,
Bill
Have fun,
Bill
