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Can someone recommend me a Machete?

rksoon said:
For brush and light clearing work, yeah, I'd go with the thinner models. If you're doing a lot of clearing you'll want something that won't fatigue you quickly. If you're dealing with really woodsy stuff, you might want the thicker blades with more mass, as dawsonbob pointed out. It's been a while since I've done any machete work though, and back then...a machete was a machete to me :o :D Others have more experience and might suggest something different :thumbup:
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I know where your coming from...I know pretty much nothing about machetes :p
 
rksoon said:
For brush and light clearing work, yeah, I'd go with the thinner models. If you're doing a lot of clearing you'll want something that won't fatigue you quickly. If you're dealing with really woodsy stuff, you might want the thicker blades with more mass, as dawsonbob pointed out. It's been a while since I've done any machete work though, and back then...a machete was a machete to me :o :D Others have more experience and might suggest something different :thumbup:
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For heavy stuff I say don't go thick--go wide. Put more mass BEHIND the cutting edge. The Condor Beaver Tail is a good example of this. The blade is still thin but it chops like an axe. The thinner blade will help penetrate deeper in wood.
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
For heavy stuff I say don't go thick--go wide. Put more mass BEHIND the cutting edge. The Condor Beaver Tail is a good example of this. The blade is still thin but it chops like an axe. The thinner blade will help penetrate deeper in wood.
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This guy uses machetes a lot :thumbup:
 
I don't plan on cutting heavy stuff...or atleast very much of it. Like I said mainly just berry bush stuff. What model would suit best for that task?
 
RescueRiley said:
14 inch tramotina bolo Send it to one of our industrious folks for a good sharpening.... or for about 50 bucks you can contack Brian andrews and get a customized Ontario that will slice atoms in half
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How do I get in contact with Brian Andrews? You can send me a PM...or post it here if that's allowed. Thanks.
 
Here's my .02 worth...The Trams seem to have soft steel blades that warp or curl when chopping harder woods such as oak or mesquite. I have found that going with a South American made blade that is thin but broad and rings (makes a ringing sound) when you thump it with a fingernail will sharpen well and hold the edge well while holding up to harder chopping duties. A blade that makes a thud sound when thumped will usually be soft: OK for grass and soft vegetation, but not strong enough for rough work. Use a shorter blade in tight quarters such as cutting cedar trees and a longer blade when you need to stay away from thorns and have room to swing it. I've owned several machetes over the last 25 or so years. I can easily ruin a Tram in a day on my place here in Texas. I typically carry a 12" for the tight work and a 22" for heavier chopping (good ringing blades) in more open settings with a good sharp bastard file on hand for touching up the edge occasionally. A sharp blade with a strong convex edge really reduces the number of swings needed to get the job done. As for the swing, it's all in the wrist...speed is key...and the blade has a sweet spot usually about 1/3 the way down from the tip just like a baseball bat. A good machete with the right technique will easily replace a hatchet anyday and do the job quicker.
 
My suggestion is more on what not to buy. Unless you see yourself ripping your way out of a downed aircraft soon, do not buy one with the saw on the spine. The "saw" on the Ontario I bought cuts on the pull stroke which in my opinion (as a carpenter) makes it suck as a saw, and it hangs on and tears the sheath up when drawing it.
 
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