dakotakidd
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Not sure....been doing some YouTube searching. A lot of people use standoffs and whatever screw you want, but then you need to counter bore for the inside of the scale too..
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How To Can someone school me on bolt on fixed blade scales?
- Thread starter dakotakidd
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Learn to make your own and you can configure them exactly how you want. These are titanium. 5mm diameter, #6-32 thread, 90-degree angle and a T25 Torx drive.
I wish I'd have known that before I ordered some gulso bolts and the counterbore a couple days ago. Lol
I thought spending the $30 for a counterbore and pilot was bad, now I need a mill and a lathe.
OP, I'm playing with screw on scales again as well, for my cerakote and parkerized blades.
To get around sanding the finish off of the tang, I've been making sure at least the profile of the scales are finished before I send the blade out for whatever finish. (I do this for stonewash and black oxide that I do in house as well).
When I'm ready to glue it together, I pin and clamp the scales on, then put turtle wax on the tang, blade and edges of the scales and let it dry, then I take it apart, carefully wipe the surfaces to be glued with acetone then denatured alcohol, let that dry and then glue everything together. The wax lets the epoxy that squeezes out peel right off.
Here's one I just finished up today, since the gulso bolts and counterbore showed up today.I wish I'd have known that before I ordered some gulso bolts and the counterbore a couple days ago. Lol
I thought spending the $30 for a counterbore and pilot was bad, now I need a mill and a lathe.
OP, I'm playing with screw on scales again as well, for my cerakote and parkerized blades.
To get around sanding the finish off of the tang, I've been making sure at least the profile of the scales are finished before I send the blade out for whatever finish. (I do this for stonewash and black oxide that I do in house as well).
When I'm ready to glue it together, I pin and clamp the scales on, then put turtle wax on the tang, blade and edges of the scales and let it dry, then I take it apart, carefully wipe the surfaces to be glued with acetone then denatured alcohol, let that dry and then glue everything together. The wax lets the epoxy that squeezes out peel right off.
I ended up having to add liners when I hadn't planned on using them but this knife is pretty thin with 1/16" steel and 1/8" scales. The female side of the bolts were just a hair too long to tighten the scales to the tang but adding vulcanized paper liners made it just about perfect. With thicker materials it wouldn't have been an issue at all.
The counterbore seems ok, aside from the set screw for the pilot wanting to come loose a couple of times.
jfk1110
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Looks goodHere's one I just finished up today, since the gulso bolts and counterbore showed up today.
I ended up having to add liners when I hadn't planned on using them but this knife is pretty thin with 1/16" steel and 1/8" scales. The female side of the bolts were just a hair too long to tighten the scales to the tang but adding vulcanized paper liners made it just about perfect. With thicker materials it wouldn't have been an issue at all.
The counterbore seems ok, aside from the set screw for the pilot wanting to come loose a couple of times.
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith
ilmarinen - MODERATOR
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Just a note - You can grind them shorter if needed.
I have done that in the past, especially with corbys(what I normally use). In reality, the knife would have only been about 5/16" thick (1/16" steel and two 1/8" scales) without the liners, which is pretty silly.