Recommendation? Can This Knife Be Saved?

Danex

Danex

Joined
Sep 28, 2017
Messages
55
I left this Kershaw Leek in a drawer on a boat in the ocean for several weeks. The oxidation has gummed it up It still opens and closes, just not very smoothly.
I thinking there’s a possibility that I can take this knife apart and clean it up and make it useful. But before doing so, I’d like to know what the members think, in order to gain some confidence or avoid a world of pain and frustration.
Any and all tips about disassembly/reassembly and how to remove the corrosion are welcome.
Thanks in advance
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Going by the pics I can't see it's hard to say. But knowing the Leela you should be able to bring it back to almost new. The one thing I'd seriously recommend whether it's broke or not because any rust that leaves a pit mark is a weak point and the spring will most likely fail on an arc in a bend in the torsion spring. I'd do it if I were you. You obviously think you can, you have nothing to lose by trying.
 
Without looking deeper, it looks like there is corrosion around the pivot on the blade that could be gumming things up. I would take off one side and see what's going on as that's pretty easy to do usually. As a very initial step, maybe drip some oil in there. I've had reasonable response from 3in1 in dirty pivots when I didn't want to really tear things apart on loose ball bearing pivots. Not too dis-similar from flushing bearing with grease. I'm pretty sure the leak runs on washers so it should work better as there is less metal to rust and dirty up.
 
Kershaw Leeks are easy to take apart and clean. What I would do first though, is go to Kershaw's contact page, click on the Warranty Service/Parts button about 1/2 way down the page and order some new screws and especially a new torsion bar (all free). The torsion bar especially, is a good thing to replace periodically, and if any of the screws or pivot parts are in bad shape, you'll have new ones handy.
 
Okay, I watched a video and this looks pretty easy to take apart. I’ll also see about getting some new parts from Kershaw.
I’ll post an update tomorrow.
 
Kai (parent company of kershaw) will likely replace the blade for $30 if you send it in. Give them a call first. Otherwise I would disassemble and give it a good cleaning to remove the rust at least...
 
PoorUserName said:
Sandvik 14C28N is supposedly quite corrosion resistant but salt water/air will rust virtually any steel.
Click to expand...

Add to that, the bead-blast finish has been known to be another documented problem in Kershaw's knives and others. The coarser texture that produces the matte-like finish makes the steel more prone to collecting and holding the stuff that corrodes it (salt, dirt, acids, moisture, etc).


David
 
PoorUserName said:
Strange the Kershaw website says it`s Sandvik 14C28N

https://kershaw.kaiusaltd.com/knives/knife/serrated-leek
Click to expand...

Could easily be either, and maybe other steel types as well. Kershaw has played around with different steels a lot, in the Leeks and other models. I have an older one in 440A, as well as another Leek in S30V and two in ZDP-189. When the rusting problems with Kershaw's bead blast came up some years ago (around ~2010), they changed the blade steel to 14C28N, from their previous 13C26 (Sandvik), in an attempt to get the rusting issues controlled.

I think the 14C28N has been well-liked though. If I were betting, I'd assume they might at least still be selling knives in that, if not in other types as well, probably at different price points (hence the 'Amazon exclusive' model in the lower-grade steel).

But the 'C27' in this OP's particular model#, I'd think, would probably be a hint. And the black handle w/bright blade (i.e., not black blade) also matches the exclusive version for Amazon.


David
 
Last edited:
EA76B8D0-0C6B-4105-8C50-E9E2CF64753F.jpeg I got the tools this morning and took it apart. Two questions,
1) what’s the best way to get this rust off?
2) what sort of grease should I use when I reassemble?
I did buy it off amazon and nothing else I own rusted so fast as this. I have it in Utah now at 6400 feet where it is very dry.
 
1. WD40 and a blue Scotchbrite pad. Move to a green pad if the blue doesn't work. I like to use the pads that come on a kitchen sponge as I can rinse and wipe the metal as I go.

2. Lots of options here. Gun oil, 3-in-1 oil, machine oil, mineral oil. I use a small drop of olive oil for all my folders. I have come in for a lot of abuse on BF for this recommendation (you can search "olive" from amongst my posts), but I stand by it. Whatever is handy and cheap will work, though. Just be sparing unless you want an oil stain on your trousers and to smell like the oil you're using.

Looking forward to seeing the after images. NB, most of that rust will have left permanent pits and stains. Don't be ashamed, though. We've all done it.

Zieg
 
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