Can this work on a handle.

[Fletch Helical]

From the looks of it I'm probably going to have an ugly area around my corbys as a result of my press not being true. I know there is an old woodworking trick where you can make a pretty good wood filler by taking the sawdust of the wood your working with, and mixing it with a bit of wood glue to make it almost paste like for filler. However I'm not sure how that would look when you buff it up on a handle. Would it look alright? Then again can it look worse than having a gap between the bolt and the handle? Unless it's possible to peen a corby but it doesn't seem like an easy task.

 

[Fross]

Ive done this before on some darker walnut scales, wish I had some pics but I do not. I used it to fill a small divot around one of the pins where I had some chipping from installing it, it worked out pretty good but was a very small area. The guy I gave the knife to didn't even notice the spot, like you said I doubt it can look any worse than if you just leave the gap. Try getting a scrap piece of the wood and just drill a hole in it and fill it all the same and hit it with the buffer, its worth a shot and may save you some heart ache.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Mix epoxy and fine wood dust. Fill the hole/gap , packing it in tightly. Let some extra bulge out. Sand smooth. When almost flush, flood with thin cyanoacrylic (super glue) and let set up, finish sanding. Repeat the cyanoacrylic if needed. This method works extremely well on filling woods with holes in it ,like buckeye burl and redwood burl. It works for pin/rivet holes ,too.

 

[Fletch Helical]

It's non stabilized though and will be getting a tung oil finish. Should I still do the CA glue or will it look funny since it likely won't absorb the oil??

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

If it is non-stabilized, mix the dust with tightbond wood glue instead of epoxy, and don't use the CA. The tung oil should do the rest. Try it on a piece of scrap first and see how it looks.