can you baton with a Trekker

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Dec 11, 2006
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Does anyone know if you can use a locking SAK Trekker to split logs for firewood . If so, up to what diameter? How strong is this Trekker anyway?
 
Not trying to be blunt (or a wisea$$) but this is definitely not a tool to be battoned on. Like a multi-tool, it fills a "companion" or "specialist" role in one's overall kit which presumes a larger knife to be subjected to this kind of stress.

It's not so much the lock that one has to worry about (though this may also be a failure point) that people often forget it's the PIVOT that's subjected to such gross stress.

If one has no choice, like what Fonly upstairs said, disengage the lock to let the blade hang freely for you to hammer on (I saw this method done on a large Opinel somewhere).
 
I've battoned similarly sized blades through small 1 to 2 inch diameter sticks to make small pieces for kindling. The upper limit kind of depends on the wood. . . some larger pieces may split very easily, some smaller ones may be harder or have twisted grain that won't split easily even with a hatchet.
 
yeah, the knife isnt made for that havily of use, only when it HAD to be used in that way.
 
Not trying to be blunt (or a wisea$$) but this is definitely not a tool to be battoned on. Like a multi-tool, it fills a "companion" or "specialist" role in one's overall kit which presumes a larger knife to be subjected to this kind of stress.

It's not so much the lock that one has to worry about (though this may also be a failure point) that people often forget it's the PIVOT that's subjected to such gross stress.

If one has no choice, like what Fonly upstairs said, disengage the lock to let the blade hang freely for you to hammer on (I saw this method done on a large Opinel somewhere).

So if the pivot takes a beating would the strider folders with the large pivots be good for battoning?
 
So if the pivot takes a beating would the strider folders with the large pivots be good for battoning?

If we are talking about over-built, engineered-for-the-military-and- occassional cavemen types of folders (i.e. - Striders, Extram Ratios) well, yes, those pivots could withstand a heckuvalot a lot more stress than your average folder.

But here's me elaborating my thoughts:

1. FUNCTIONAL usage - as I've mentioned before, IMHO folders and multi-tools fullfill a "specialist" or "companion" roles and NOT designed to replace a larger fixed-blade. The right tool for the right job.

2. LONG-term wear of your tools - yep, even if they were Striders or ER's, if you constantly baton on them, they will eventually wear-out if you subject them to stresses they weren't designed or intended for. Its just the pure physics of degradation and "diminishing returns" (tool mileage in plainspeak).

3. The SIMPLEST designs always work the best - call it Occam's law for knives. Less moving parts, less maintenance, less worries of breakage. No lint, sand, dirt, gunk or anything that may essentially muck-up a folder when your "folder" doesn't really fold?
 
What's the opinion on using a baton on blades that are more or less fixed, but have a rotating pivot? For example, the SOG Revolver or Buck Revolution?

I'm thinking about getting either, but wonder if I can use them to split wood in a pinch.

Thanks.
 
I would avoid it. My first impression was that you might have chunks of knife blade flying around-- not good. You can cut part way through a 2" branch and step on it to start a split if you need smaller kindling. Batoning is a handy skill if you have a suitable tool, but you can get a fire going without it. I've never lacked small branches for kindling.
 
I always look for spruce trees. There little twigs might still be dry because of the good cover, and they light great!:)
 
um...

what i do with my trekker is..

carve a small wedge...

and then use that wedge with a baton to split stuff....

cheers :D
 
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