can you "re-finish" a Villager to a high finish?

V

Venice Will

Joined
Jan 11, 2007
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I'm wondering if it is possible to bring a high-gloss finish up from a 'Villager" finshed Khukuri?

Anybody done that? and what does it take time/tool wise?


Thanks much -
 
A dremel tool with the polishing kit can come pretty close. I refinished a black baby CAK, got a wavy mirrored finish, and then blued it deeply (just the blade). Looks pretty good. I'll see about posting pics after I get it back..I sent it off to have a sheath made for it.
 
Yeah, of course you can. However, it would take a lot of work.:D
 
I've never tried it.

I usually end up doing the opposite because the dirt and grit will take the polish off anyway once you use them and then you can just go over it with 600 grit and oil.
 
I've read that the process takes a lot of elbow grease, and multiple grits of wet/dry sandpaper. Seems like a LOT of work, working with one grit to remove the previous scratch pattern, and then repeating with a new grit... some folk recommended changing the direction of the sanding motion with each grit, so you could tell when you've removed the scratches from the prior session. Then of course is a final buffing to get a lustre from the steel.

Wouldn't have the patience myself, unless I was restoring a beloved blade that somehow got rusty or something. I cheated with an old rusty kitchen knife I had once and used various grits on a belt sander... wouldn't have worked with many khuks due to fullers and other contours that'd be difficult or impossible to get at with the belt. Got CLOSE to a mirror finish with the kitchen knife though... other than the deeper pits in the flats in the blade...

I remember reading years ago about knifemaker/photographer Scott Slobodian using certain types of wood as a polishing medium near the final stages. Interesting technique!
 
C.S. Graves said:
I've read that the process takes a lot of elbow grease, and multiple grits of wet/dry sandpaper. Seems like a LOT of work, working with one grit to remove the previous scratch pattern, and then repeating with a new grit... some folk recommended changing the direction of the sanding motion with each grit, so you could tell when you've removed the scratches from the prior session. Then of course is a final buffing to get a lustre from the steel.
Click to expand...


If you're going to do it then this is the method that works best. There is a lot of work involed though and really isn't worth it if you plan on using the blade.
 
Skyler R. said:
There is a lot of work involed though and really isn't worth it if you plan on using the blade.
Click to expand...

Yeah, frequent cleaning and application of oil is probably much easier. :D

Heck, wood chopping will polish the sweet spot naturally at least.

And if rust DOES appear, one probably wouldn't mind taking steel wool or sandpaper to the affected spots on a villager. Still less work than creating a refined polish in the first place.

Because of the tremendous work involved in getting a level of mirror polish on steel, I very seldom make any changes to my HI Khuks' finish, partly out of respect for the trouble the kamis had to go through to get it that way. I think my Bonecutter was the one exception. I wanted to etch a khuk for once in my life, and I figured it'd be my primary user. :thumbup:
 
Whew! after all of that...."work talk".....I think I'm just gonna wait for a few more DOTD's to pass this way...or apply for the adoption for those who's Khukuri cup runneth over ;)
 
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