Can you sharpen S35VN with an Arkansas Stone?

[cudgee]

The 112 would hold an edge longer than an ex-girlfriend could hold a grudge;

What you mean forever. Sorry for derailing an interesting thread, but could not help myself.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

Back in the late seventies: I owned a Buck 112, and a Schrade Uncle Henry. The Schrade was so soft that you could dull it with a sharp glance. But a half-dozen passes on a hard Arkansas stone would bring it back. The 112 would hold an edge longer than an ex-girlfriend could hold a grudge; but it took more than an hour to bring it back to sharp...

Trying to thin the edge on an Arkansas stone, of an old 2-dot 112 in Buck's 440C, was the life lesson 'epiphany' that made me first consider what types of abrasives are a good fit (or not) for given types of steel. That blade basically skated over the stone without much cutting being done, if any at all. Might be the most important lesson I ever learned in sharpening. 440C is actually the steel where I draw the line, in terms of selecting something other than a natural stone to grind it. I eventually used SiC sandpaper to rework the thick factory edge on that blade, and the SiC ate the 440C for breakfast. What a difference.

 

[FortyTwoBlades]

Yeah Arkansas stones are basically pure quartz, which is only BARELY harder than fully quenched plain carbon steel. The bigger the difference in abrasive hardness vs. the tool, the faster the abrasive works, and the less the abrasive itself wears. Meanwhile chromium carbides in most stainless cutlery steels is a good deal harder than that, and 440C at a high hardness eats quartz for breakfast.

 

[scdub]

I also think that grit progression is more important when using natural stones on harder steels.

While I’m sure it’s ripping out some carbides, sandstone will take metal off of all steels I’ve tried so far, including S35VN, Elmax and CTS XHP (although I haven’t tried any super hard stainless like ZDP-189, and/or super full of carbide stuff like the Rex steels, Z-Max, etc.)

Progressing (as needed depending on edge damage) through several stages, often coarse sandstone - fine sandstone - fine chert - extra fine chert - then stropping will easily get me an arm-hair shaving edge freehand on basically everything in my house. (…soon I’ll be able to sharpen EVERYTHING in the house on natural stones, INCLUDING my straight razor, once I get this monster piece of super-fine/translucent chert finished ).


I’m sure diamonds and ceramics give a crisper apex and higher potential sharpness on “super” steels (and do so faster and more efficiently). However as long as you start with an adequately coarse grit natural stone and you’re not jumping up in grits too fast, a working edge should be achievable with natural materials (that you can potentially find in your backyard).

 

[DocJD]

I also think that grit progression is more important when using natural stones on harder steels.

While I’m sure it’s ripping out some carbides, sandstone will take metal off of all steels I’ve tried so far, including S35VN, Elmax and CTS XHP (although I haven’t tried any super hard stainless like ZDP-189, and/or super full of carbide stuff like the Rex steels, Z-Max, etc.)

Progressing (as needed depending on edge damage) through several stages, often coarse sandstone - fine sandstone - fine chert - extra fine chert - then stropping will easily get me an arm-hair shaving edge freehand on basically everything in my house. (…soon I’ll be able to sharpen EVERYTHING in the house on natural stones, INCLUDING my straight razor, once I get this monster piece of super-fine/translucent chert finished ).
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I’m sure diamonds and ceramics give a crisper apex and higher potential sharpness on “super” steels (and do so faster and more efficiently). However as long as you start with an adequately coarse grit natural stone and you’re not jumping up in grits too fast, a working edge should be achievable with natural materials (that you can potentially find in your backyard).

That's all pretty cool , if you know what you're doing .

But the only thing I recognize and can use, from your pics is the angle grinder ! And the books...maybe .

 

[lonestar1979]

Get silicone carbide stone or diamond...why waste time with natural stones

 

[Khromo]

...Natural stones are a beautiful thing when matched up to the steels they were originally intended to sharpen...

This is so true. For some of us, anyways!

I get into this weird, transendental state when I get comfortable with a good natural stone and the right blade. It's like the Indian fakirs who get themselves mentally prepared to walk on hot coals. That is a level of involvement, or maybe detachment, that everyone should experience at least once in their life.

I turn off the music so I can hear the sweet growl of the blade passing across the stone. The stone and blade are like two lovers, biting each other. Nothing weird, or sexual or anything, but not what we expect from inanimate objects.

The stone appears soft and vulnerable at first, but she takes something away from the blade with each pass. Similiar to a predatory human woman. Ask me how I know.

Finally she gets what she wants: a laser-thin apex, straight as the path of light, and crisp, shiny bevels that scream "Find a scratch!!!"

But seriously, when I choose the right progression for the condition of the blade and what I am trying to accomplish, natural stones can do a fantastic job on the right steels. They can do it fast and leave a consistent fine finish. I especially enjoy the black and trans Arkansas stones, and even the hardest Asian stones. They have a much different feel and sound than diamonds.

 

[garry3]

I've never used a modern steel, and I'm looking at a couple of knives that I like the design of, but I'm not sure about S35VN. I have one of those stones on a triangle, and you go from coarse down to very fine, and then sometimes I polish up on the underside of a coffee mug.

I don't really want to buy new sharpening equipment or change my routine. I like it too much.

Is S35VN a good or a bad idea for a stick in the mud like me?

Thank you!

Most of those tri-hones are paired with a silicon carbide coarse, if so that will work and an ark will refine the edge.

 

[jayjaygee]

Thanks to everyone for all of the great information. So I either buy all-new git or stay with tried and true steels. Got it.