"CAN you do it" and "Should you do it" are two different questions.
Normally kilns aren't good HT ovens because of size and door configuration. Then heat up and ramp times can be much slower than knife kilns. IIRC, that kiln is the size in width and depth ( around 16-18"). It would work for knives up to 10-12" max.
You have to cut a round hole in the top and place firebricks over it. Suspend blades from the top on 1/8" stainless wire/rod. The hooks need to hang about 3" below the top, and the blades should be several inches above the floor.. I have helped a friend modify his kiln, and we made the hook like this:
We cut a round 3" hole in the top with a hole saw.
We bent the end of a 24" piece of 1/8" stainless rod in a 1" "U"/hook. We then bent the rod 5" up from the hook at 90 degrees. We left the rest of rod extending past the edge and put a 6" wooden handle on it. In use the blade was hung from the hook and the rod was laid across the top with the handle sticking out and the knife in the kiln. We put a 6" square of Ins-wool over the hole and some soft firebricks over the wool. When putting the blade in or taking it out, you never get near the hot hole. You can easily quench the blade while still hanging on the rod. We only did carbon blades. I would think stainless would require making some sort of "packet holder' to hang on the hook.
You can hang several blades in at a time.
What that kiln will make is a superb low temp salt pot. Make a 24" tall salt tube from 1/4" thick stainless steel and stick it through a hole in the top. Seal up the joint with satanite. Don't skimp on the tube material and weld. You can purchase the tube from HTT&R. Fill with low temp salts up to the level of the inside top of the kiln and set the controller to 400F. Quench blades in the molten salt and they can sit as long as needed while you remove and straighten them one at a time. Once all are straight and the blade has had a few minutes in the salt to equalize, it can be hung in the air to cool slowly to room temp, or allowed to cool to 200 and water quenched. Then the same salt pot can be used to temper the blade in.
You can also heat-blue steel fittings and blades nin it. Filled with niter salts it will get a rich deep blue color.
Keep tightly capped with a tight sealing rubber top when not in use.
