canister damascus?

Robert, of course Bruce will need to provide the final answers, but I can make a comment for you.

First, the billet you see with the cuts is the "accordian" process partially done. Those triangular pieces need to be removed. Thus, I think what "may be" going to happen is that a larger drill size is run down the pilot hole. The larger drill size and pilot positioning would be selected to just connect the lines. That's conjecture of course, as I don't know Bruce's process. This would then leave a triangular cutout with a rounded edge. That zigzag bar is then heated and slowly flattened with the presss or hammer, "opening" it up, and exposing the interior to the outside so you can see the pattern (in a repeating "tile", thus "mosaic") that runs longitudinally down the bar. The purpose of having a rounded edge on each triangle is so it won't shear when flattened. (The cutouts can be saved, and later tossed in a can and powder filled to produce the oddball "scrap" pattern. Some of those can turn out exoticly georgeous.)

As for what's in the can, it would be pretty certain that it is mostly high carbon steel. This can be a mix of just a couple steels like 1084 and 15N20, or could be a whole mishmash of various steels. (The cool thing about a whole mix of steels is that this is the start of the multicolored damascus we've seen at times. Another topic entirely.) That small square you see in the middle could be a spot for powder, or..... it could be prepared to receive another canister bar that has been drawn out, never opened, and re-inserted here to put a little figure running in the final product. The thing to think about is what the bar can look like AFTER it's been drawn out and accordianed open. That photo on Bruce's site is gonna be interesting, whatever it is. Perhaps something like a basketweave with something tucked in the middle.

The possibilities of what can happen using a can are endless, and very provocative, are they not? One can even toss (ugh) stainless in the mix in a can, as it too will weld if hot enough and oxy free. There was someone making damascus in a can at some point that used very fine shimstock, hundreds of layers at a time, in a can, and it would need no refolding after it was initially welded. Something I've been half-heartedly looking for is some very coarse screening in stainless, like 2 squares per inch, ala the "fish barrier" I saw at the nuke plant primary water intake. I've thought that layering that in a can and filling with 1084 powder around it may produce an interesting pattern. It may need to have that billet composited with a bar of "better" bladesteel around it for a cutting edge, but I betcha one could get a good "windowpane" pattern with the right screen.

AH, well, I ramble as usual. Hope this helped some. And, please, someone correct me where I screwed up anything here! Thanks!
 
One other thing: "W" pattern isn't made in a can. It is a low-layer (approx. 7) billet that is repeatedly "edge-folded" (7 times?) then accordianed open.

It is both a pattern in itself and then the starting point for further manipulations for more complex patterns. If you look at some of Fritt's work over on CKD, I thinnk you can see the "W" pattern at work in any number of his composite bars.
 
Gee sorry I havent checked out this thread for a while. Mike has it all right though. He said it better than I can. Actually the can size with all the vertical blade steel and the square hole left in the middle is my latest gun barrel. The axe/gun. There are more pics of it being welded and drawn and twisted. The core was filled with mild steel (1018) powder so it could be drilled out easier. The fella that drilled it had trouble because of the high carbon steels, 1084, 15n20 and lower carbon 203E. It stalled a 7 hp gun drill. He said it doesnt have to hold an edge so why use high carbon steels?

The accordian cut bar is the basket weave blade on the Bruce Evans/Bruce Bump colaboration California Knife this is also on my site. It is very important to smooth all the bandsaw blade marks before flattening the bar or else it will shear in those places, (believe me I know). Be sure to open the bar slowly and at welding heat (2300f) with a light coat of borax to keep it from burning up.

One thing I have been doing lately is to make the cannister from high carbon steel so it can be part of the pattern and doesnt need to be ground completely off. Mild steel cannister if partially left on is visible when heat treated and therefore leaves some soft spots. This brings me to another thing...If you use some low carbon and nickel that wont harden You will need to weld a high carbon edge on the billet or blade. I use 1/4" square stock 1075 for the edge and sometimes the back edge too.

Make sense? :)
 
Man guys! Excellant explanations, even I could follow them.I never even thought about the small holes in the "W" billet being only a pilot for a larger drill bit, till you mentioned it Mike, then I fell all together. I like your idea of the 2" x 2" screen. I have some 1/4" SS screen for fireplace screens, but haven't thought much about it because I'm just not into SS as of yet. I guess mixing the two though would work. Bruce I like you idea of making the can out of blade steel. I didn't know it would come that wide, but I guess a guy could tig together a couple of 1.5 wide pieces without much problem. Would be easier then grinding off the mild steel probably. I one little canned billet I'm made so far had to much of the can still around it, to much to grind off in fact. Probably need to draw it out further and reduce the mild steel thickness. I'm starting a special section on my computer devoted to patterns and text about all the different mosaics, both straight layered pieces and canned. It's facinating. Appreciate all of the info guys.
 
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