Canister Damascus

indian george

indian george

Joined
Feb 15, 1999
Messages
11,566
Have you Bubbas every tried doing up a canister is a SS 2" X 2" X 1/16" square tubing???????? Also I can get 1/8" thick wall too.:D
 
Ive never tried it but it would solve the "grinding off the damm can" problem.

Most of us dont have a way of welding the lids on stainless.

Muffler tubing supposedly has aluminum coating and peels right off the core. The trouble is it is round
 
I've never tried a SS can but I've welded SS in a can. All the cans I use are the thinnest wall square tubing I can get, after welding, stretching and restacking the can, it's pretty well gone or stretched so thin its just a fine line.

Bill
 
I just tried a can in 1/16 tubing. My next attempt is in 1/8 wall. The 1/16 burned through or separated. Made a mess...

Gene
 
Thanks Guys. I think I am going to try the 1/8" wall first.:thumbup: I just did up a can with 4 different sizes of bearings in the center chamber lined with nickel ( 1") and with 1084/4600 and between the center and the outside can I put W-1 drill rod and 1084 powder.
 
I just checked the wall thickness of my tubing and its .070, so its just a shade over 1/16". I've never had any problems with burning thru or rupturing the can, but I use squaring dies and reduce slowly until its reduced 30% then I get more aggressive. If I can fine some thinner walled tubing in the 2"-2 1/2" sq. size I'm going to try it. Its nice not having to remove that outer skin.

Happy canning,:D

Bill
 
I have never tried damascus of any type. but when I was buying steel the other day, I noticed that the place had 1018 in every imaginable sized and shape. Would square 1018 tube with plate welded to the ends be a bit easier to work with than stainless? I had a strange can damascus idea that involves using tool steel hex rod as the center and then kind of buidling a "starbust" pattern of thin triangles of the same steel coming off of the flats (probably have to tack weld them to the bottom plate) and filling the rest of the space with powder, bearings, very thin rods, etc. of different material to get contrast I figured that maybe i could get a larger hex, "shave" down the first 4-5 inches of it on the old KMG for the actual center, slip the bottom plate over it and leave the rest thick for the handle. I also thought about drilling out a small hole in the center of the hex and filling it with contrasting powder material too. I figured this would be ok for bolster materiel or accordioned out for a repeating "hex starburst" pattern blade. Any thoughts?
 
1/16" wall is all I've used... but never in ss. I'd like to try it.

Joe, you can get steels like W1 in so many various cross sections, it's hard for me to justify not using something like that rather than 1018.

Mixes like W2 and 1018 are definitely old school... but the "more modern" mixes like 1084/15N20 or O1/L6 is SOOO hard to beat. :)

All that 1018 will make for some cool fittings if you want to heat-blue, plumb brown, or the like :thumbup:
 
NickWheeler said:
1/16" wall is all I've used... but never in ss. I'd like to try it.

Joe, you can get steels like W1 in so many various cross sections, it's hard for me to justify not using something like that rather than 1018.

Mixes like W2 and 1018 are definitely old school... but the "more modern" mixes like 1084/15N20 or O1/L6 is SOOO hard to beat. :)

All that 1018 will make for some cool fittings if you want to heat-blue, plumb brown, or the like :thumbup:
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I was talking about using 1018 as opposed to stainless for the can and end plates because it is cheap, readily available and easy to weld. Everything inside would be medium or high carbon :D If i could get nickel bearing steel like L6 or 15n20 in the hex shape and the thin rods, etc. and a high mangenese powder that would be cool. In theory, the "starburst" and filler rods, etc, would be silvery and the powder surrounding it would be dark.
 
George I have seen tutorials of Brazilians using thin walled ss for this purpose and they would chisel and peel the can off after its welded.
 
Some of my best cans are high carbon steel instead of 1018. I dont have to grind off the entire can and it can be 4 or 9 wayed right into the pattern. Theres nothing more irratating than to have mild steel show up in the pattern when etching a finished mosaic blade.
 
Bruce Bump said:
Some of my best cans are high carbon steel instead of 1018. I dont have to grind off the entire can and it can be 4 or 9 wayed right into the pattern. Theres nothing more irratating than to have mild steel show up in the pattern when etching a finished mosaic blade.
Click to expand...
Bruce, where do you get the Hi-carbon square tubing??? Or do you just make it?????:confused:
 
Bruce Bump said:
I just make it myself. I use 2 rectangular pieces and bent them in the middle to 90 deg. weld them together and weld a bottom and top on.
Click to expand...

Damn!!! You one smart fellow.:thumbup: :thumbup: :D Did you learn that in jail ?????? HEHEHEHEHE!!!!! I mean when you were working there.;)
Thanks Bro!!!!!
 
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