Can't get my burner to work.. HELP!plz.

Thanks guys. Just got home from work and glad to have something else to try.

First off... For all the concern about my garage door... I never work with it closed. I just ran out there to film the video so I could post this thread. Thanks for all the concern though. :p

I didn't try the burner flare because it barely fits on the tube. I will go grind it out a bit so I can slide it and report back.
 
Sorry for a late reply but... I've been out in my knife shop all day!

Don't give up! this is discouraging but; you must learn to do/make a forge yourself. I assure you it pays off. The more you use one, the more you realize they are all a work in progess, wearing out with every minute of use. Something is always needing attention or adjustment, or a new coat of ITC, or borax has ruined the floor, or ...(insert problem). So the more you work on'em, and fix the problems, the more confidence you have in your knowledge of how and why they work.

I think the idea of the mig tip being right at the mouth of the burner tube as I said, is right. Also as was pointed out by Salem Straub, the amount of flare past the tube end is critical.

I will go grind it out a bit so I can slide it and report back.
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no... grind down the outside of the nipple (tube) don't mess up a $10 flare. Remember there is little purchase for the set screw there as it is.

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As much as I agree that building my own tools is a big plus and learning experience, I feel so strapped for time right now that I just want to get back up and running. Two months ago I decided to change my forge to a vertical blown forge and add a dedicated HT forge to get better control of my temperatures. And 2 months later and I'm still struggling to get the tools to work let alone get any knives made. I'm sure it's a common story but it can really take the wind out of the sails.


--- SO.... took my flare and smoothed out the weld inside and then took a couple thou of the burner tube (mostly because its a lot softer metal than the flare) so I could just slide it and voilà! well.. almost. It's progress though.

Still some tuning to do and if the mig tip should be right at the mouth of the burner tube then I will have to replace that nipple but it's promising.

I ended up still having it finicky to actually light and it will blow itself out after about 6psi but it's got a more of a roar and less sputtering.

THANKS! I think I'll just finish the HT forge and see how it works when set up. Once I get the forge chamber hot enough, I can't imaging having any issues with the burner blowing itself out.

I'll post a little video of it working later.

I'm still looking forward to seeing the instructions though as it probably has some good tuning tips.
 
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Glad to hear you've made some progress. The first vertical forge I built was a bit of a problem child this way, it had a Zoeller type sidearm burner that gave me some grief. It can be frustrating.

Once you get this burner in a forge shell, it'll keep itself lit and run smoothly- if the flame is vortexing at all inside it should be stable well before the liner even comes up to temp.

Please do keep us posted, I'd like to see how it turns out.
 
SBranson said:
I'm still looking forward to seeing the instructions though as it probably has some good tuning tips.
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Kathryn Ellis said:
Stuart -- If you send me an e-mail message, I will send you the instructions as a pdf. It should have been noted on your invoice that we send the instructions out upon request -- several customers do not need them because they have put them together before, others just order for component pieces, others lose paper copies we mail -- therefore, we find it best to send them as a pdf so customers will have access to them anytime they want/need.
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Did you send your email address yet as Kathryn mentioned in the other thread? Emailing you a pdf should be pretty straight forward.
 
I wrote her and she wrote back this morning saying she had a professional engagement today but would email them tonight. I didn't get them yet so hopefully tomorrow.
 
I received the PDF instructions this morning. Sure wish I had waited but I think I can still salvage the mess I made of some of it.
 
Just thought I'd finish this off as I have it running pretty well now and am working to finish off my HT forge. Here's some videos of the burner running in the open and drying my first coat of Satanite.

The things that worked best for me are:

-The flare being about 3/4" to 1" extended beyond the end of the tube.
-the air intake covered a little with a piece of tape (I will drill and tap for a proper cover)

- AND this one.. Seemed to make quite a difference. It was in the instructions Kathryn Ellis sent me. You put the nipple in a drill and:

"You can grind a tapered transition between the burner orifice tube and the orifice tip to aid in laminar flow."

Picture2.png


So here's the videos. These are all with it running at about 3psi. **edit.. oops.. they are pretty crappy :o**

[youtube]lfBaxsPFAsI[/youtube]

[youtube]ARobY8Li7vg[/youtube]

[youtube]guh_W1g8Jro[/youtube]


THANKS FOR YOUR HELP!!!!
 
Is the burner always going to be mounted in the end of the forge, or is it just stuck there to dry the satanite?
 
It is always mounted at the end. This is a Don Fogg style HT drum forge that I got the idea for from this WIP thread. (you can see it on page 2 and in the background)

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=701104


I'm trying to anticipate your question about the placement of the burner. This drum is almost 3' long and 18" wide running one burner. It's made to run at HT temps only and provide even controllable heat.
 
Good for you for sticking with it. The sidearm burner is an excellent venturi burner. Bet the next one will be a piece of cake. Wish you had the instructions up front.

Take care, Craig
 
SBranson said:
It is always mounted at the end. This is a Don Fogg style HT drum forge that I got the idea for from this WIP thread. (you can see it on page 2 and in the background)

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=701104


I'm trying to anticipate your question about the placement of the burner. This drum is almost 3' long and 18" wide running one burner. It's made to run at HT temps only and provide even controllable heat.
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People are going to tell you it won't work. So to those folks, I'd recommend they look around and see the dozens of set-ups that have been made and proven after seeing Don Fogg's heat treating drum forge. ;) :D
 
Thanks Nick. Well I've been hashing out the details directly with John White and I'm sure his works, but if mine doesn't work as well as his doesn't work I'll be plenty happy. :p :)
 
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