Cant get my xm-18 centered. Need some help

[KyleMS11]

Perfect thanks!

Okay now to reiterate on the centering (isn't this fun) ....... with minor adjustments (seen in bold).

Brought to you by the Stickies

Centering the Blade:

Here we go:

1. Open blade to 90 degrees and tighten pivot so that it is really tight. Tight as possible....... but not arrgh let me use all of my muscles, to break/strip it tight .

2. Close the blade and loosen the frame screws so they aren’t tight, but still holding the frame together. Maybe 3/4 of a turn loose.

3. While the blade is still in the closed position, pull blade towards the side you want the blade to move. This is the important part. Since it's off to the right (I'm guessing looking at straightforward with the blade closed??? So the presentation scale or in other words....... non locking side). Press the blade over to the frame lock side of the knife, until the blade is touching it. Then, take a folded up piece of printer paper (folded into to 3x3 size square, this way it's nice and wide) and slide/wedge it in place to keep the blade touching the frame lock side of the knife.

4. Now it's no need to pull/hold the blade, because the folded up piece of paper is holding it in place (to the opposite side in which it was off-center). So now you can tighten the frame screws. Haha, would you look at that....... Mr. Rubi (I know you're laughing xxxfalcolnxxx) already incorporated what I said but I just moved it up a few lines. Great minds think alike I guess ----> (Note: Using a folded business card or the like wedged in between the liner and blade to Hold position works well).

5. Loosen the pivot and adjust it to the desired tension.

As you can see the centering guidelines via the Stickies were already adequate and thoroughly written....... but the minor adjustments (seen in bold) I made were more for "emphasis" than anything else.

By the way, this procedure should take no longer than 5 minutes....... and shouldn't cause too many problems, I hope . I say that because I know you've done it multiple times already, and when things don't go as planned....... it can be frustrating/tiring.

(P.S.) You'll know when you've done it correctly, because the blade will be favoring the "frame lock" side of the knife, instead of the non locking side (as seen your photo). This way when you get to the final step of loosening the pivot to the desired tension, the blade will become centered when complete.

Just followed your directions exactly as you described and still off to the right. Idk at this point i think im going to have to just send it in and see if they can tune it up.

 

[GuestWho101]

Just followed your directions exactly as you described and still off to the right. Idk at this point i think im going to have to just send it in and see if they can tune it up.

Sorry to hear that buddy :-(.

Was it at least favoring the "frame" lock side when you finished step (4)?

 

[KyleMS11]

Sorry to hear that buddy :-(.

Was it at least favoring the "frame" lock side when you finished step (4)?

Yes it was. But as soon as i loosen the pivot it swings over to the right. Rob orlando just emailed me back and said washers have nothing to do with the blade being centered.

 

[Rob Orlando]

The washers being responsible is more a myth than a fact. I have seen a centered blade without a washer on one side, so they don't have much affect. Kyle, You have it right, as you loosen the pivot is should lean to the right - Tighten it will move to the left, loosen it moves to the right. If it is centered at some point, you have it. If you can't flip it, apply some lube. You may find you cannot flip a perfectly centered blade with the correct tension if you generally struggle with flipping a Hinderer, so you may need to run it a little looser if this is the case. You may just have to find the sweet spot that works for you between tension and center. Before you mail it in, try tiny pivot screw adjustments, a few thousandths at a time, lube it and loctite it in place and allow it to dry before you handle it, It should stay right where you set it. That's exactly how we'll find the center and lock it down with thread locker to keep the screw from loosening.

 

[Alford78]

Just a wild guess as I had it happen with my three inch but not my 3.5. Make sure the Ti spacer is nice and tight up at the pivot area. Could even snap into place. I bet if you look at the lock side and Ti spacer the Ti spacer is bowed outward a tad (very very very slightly) to away from the knife which would cause the blade to pull towards the liner side.

Well Rob posted while I was and he knows what he's talking about lol. But just check that the Ti spacer/liner is nice and snug too before even starting with all the screws/pivot.

 

[RubiconSS]

Yes it was. But as soon as i loosen the pivot it swings over to the right. Rob orlando just emailed me back and said washers have nothing to do with the blade being centered.

As Rob states, the centering of a blade is an exercise in minute adjustment THEN the issue of lubrication etc comes in. This is a bi-product of the Hobby AND the Time as one becomes more comfortable with carrying and living with a Hinderer in their pocket.
It takes time to get comfortable with adjusting sharpening, using their knife.

Here is a pic of my EDC (today) ..... I dunno, does it look perfectly centered? I don't really notice anymore. It almost looks Centered half-way back AND at the tip but slightly off where the tip flares.

Tiny adjustments.........



Played with the pivot screw (in/out) for a couple minutes...

 

[Rebel4ever]

I've found w hat Rob says to be exactly right. And it seems to occur more on my 3" than 3 1/2"'s. There is a sweet spot where it will flip well, and still be a tiny bit off center. I bought one from a guy who had it centered but it wouldnt flip be cause of a "drag" on the blad e opening. Took it apart, cleaned it, oiled it with nano oil and recentered it. Better but still a little draggy. I'd loosen pivot screw an almost indectable amount and finally, it flips like a dream...smooth and fast. And it is still centered. The key I think was flipping it hard after those micro adjustments on the pivot screw. That seemed to remove the little resistance and iron out whatever was applying drag. In fact I worked on a brand new one this morning. It came centered but wouldn't fully open due to drag. Applied a drip of nano oil on detent and detent hole, then loosened a micro amount on pivot. Flipped it hard a few times and now it's smooth as a babies butt when opening. And centered too. I've found you have to just keep at it. I believe each knife has a "sweet spot". On some, it's bigger than others. Each of my 16 XM's are like people...each has a different personality to function like a dream. Stay after it.

 

[xxfalconxx]

Each of my 16 XM's are like people...

Not quite.......I love all my XMs......same can't be said about everyone I know.........
But you're totally right about the sweet spot......it's there......it's not a myth........why does that sound familiar.......???

 

[GuestWho101]

Yes it was. But as soon as i loosen the pivot it swings over to the right. Rob orlando just emailed me back and said washers have nothing to do with the blade being centered.

Isn't it just beautiful, when all the Herders come out to play/help . And then to top it off, they go the whole nine yards to deliver with pictures and all. Gotta love it!

But everything I could of said regarding your response to the question I asked, "Was it at least favoring the "frame" lock side when you finished step (4)?"....... has been answered from the fellow members above.

If it's assembled correctly and everything is lined up as Mr. Alford mentioned. Then it's a mix of what Mr. Rob, Mr. Rubi, Rebel4ever, and xxxfalconxxx have said....... which is obtaining that darn tricky "sweet spot". Believe me, I know it all to well....... but patience and persistence will get you there. Just remember that the adjustment/turn of the screw will be "micro" and almost "undetectable", literally . That's how "minute" the adjustment/turn will be.

Hope this helps, but if not there's always the ranch . Although, they'll probably do as we all here have aforementioned....... from what Mr. Rob said.

 

[Alford78]

They are a specific thickness and outside diameter. They are also two different sizes, one for each side of the knife. The washer on the lock side is a smaller outside diameter to allow for the lock bar. Monkey Edge is supposed to be the exclusive source for these but it appears they are out of stock. If you need some and Monkey Edge is indeed out of stock then you should contact Rob Orlando at RHK.

"Mr Rubi

Washer size being different for each side is true for all XM's. It also has nothing to do with centering the blade.
It does make the washer "visible" however when installed on the wrong side. At this point I Highly suggest getting a New set of the correct washers whether from M.E. or Rob and see where it goes from there."




I just changed out all my hardware from the recent Hinderer Ti stock and a smooth carbon fiber scale on my 3".

I took it apart, cleaned it, lubed it, then got it centered when first bought it (new from flash sale). But when took it apart to put all the new stuff on it last night I double checked the washers as I thought they were the same size the first time but didn't say anything when saw the above posts until I could confirm.

So, do I need new washers for my 3" spanto flipper? They are exactly the same diameter and look to be the same thickness; although, I didn't put the calipers on them.

Edit. Don't know how to multi quote yet

 

[RubiconSS]

I would consider Rob the undisputed authority and if I read his previous post correctly, the washers have little or nothing to do with "centering".

 

[Alford78]

I would consider Rob the undisputed authority and if I read his previous post correctly, the washers have little or nothing to do with "centering".

No. I'm not having centering issues. Just didn't want to start a thread asking about the two washers being different sizes on the 3" like on the larger models since its been stated in this thread by three or four people that the washer are two different sizes. Mine has two identical washers on the 3" and was trying to get make sure I needed to order a set or contact rob since its new from the last sale. I suppose ordering the kit while monkey has in stock wouldn't be a bad idea either way.

 

[GuestWho101]

No. I'm not having centering issues. Just didn't want to start a thread asking about the two washers being different sizes on the 3" like on the larger models since its been stated in this thread by three or four people that the washer are two different sizes. Mine has two identical washers on the 3" and was trying to get make sure I needed to order a set or contact rob since its new from the last sale. I suppose ordering the kit while monkey has in stock wouldn't be a bad idea either way.

Don't fret my friend....... my "NEW" (3") Slicer also came with identical washers. It in no way effected the form or function of the knife. Although, I did do as you mentioned and purchased an extra set of screws/washers from Monkey Edge. More so for my minor OCD and too have backups, than anything else. But I still recommend you buy some (extras)....... even if only for peace of mind.

These knives and the little details that we as knife enthusiasts/geeks notice or just "get" as far as understanding goes (because a non-knife person wouldn't) can drive us crazy sometimes, haha.

 

[RubiconSS]

This has been one of those threads....... Having "extra" on hand of anything is a good idea when it comes to equipment. That would include a field kit incl. Washers, lube, etc.

 

[RDA]

No. I'm not having centering issues. Just didn't want to start a thread asking about the two washers being different sizes on the 3" like on the larger models since its been stated in this thread by three or four people that the washer are two different sizes. Mine has two identical washers on the 3" and was trying to get make sure I needed to order a set or contact rob since its new from the last sale. I suppose ordering the kit while monkey has in stock wouldn't be a bad idea either way.

There are two washers sizes, small and large. The inside diameter is identical, the difference is the outside diameter. On a 3", they can assemble either with two small or they can use one small on the lockbar side and a large on the scale side.

Or put simply, you don't have a problem.

 

[Alford78]

Don't fret my friend....... my "NEW" (3") Slicer also came with identical washers. It in no way effected the form or function of the knife. Although, I did do as you mentioned and purchased an extra set of screws/washers from Monkey Edge. More so for my minor OCD and too have backups, than anything else. But I still recommend you buy some (extras)....... even if only for peace of mind.

These knives and the little details that we as knife enthusiasts/geeks notice or just "get" as far as understanding goes (because a non-knife person wouldn't) can drive us crazy sometimes, haha.

That's exactly what I did after posting the question just because of my OCD. They will arrive and be installed but only me and whoever reads these posts will know. It operates perfectly "to me" with the two that it came with but will change it just because....

I ordered multiples of everything while all the colors were in stock too. And noticed this batch of titanium 3" pivot screws won't accept the armorer's tool. I sent Rob a message just in case he didn't know as I just put some tape on a penny to get the job done. I assume they should accept the tool like the stainless ones...