Car cutting

I'm a painter in a bodyshop

I'm pretty sure a lot of pocket knives could cut through the aluminum parts on an f150

We had one that hit a chain link fence and it looked like a dinosaur attacked it.... fenders doors and bedside were ripped through
 
It's been awhile since we had a solid Cold Steel thread.
But seriously if you want a knife that can cut open car panels, look into metal shearing blades and their geometry, and go in that direction, metal chisel geometry also comes to mind, I have a hot working metal chisel that I use to cut thick steel rod into pieces with a 7lb club hammer. It's shaped like a wedge maybe 40 degree chisel ground bevel, maybe 45 degree?
 
yoko said:
I'm a painter in a bodyshop

I'm pretty sure a lot of pocket knives could cut through the aluminum parts on an f150

We had one that hit a chain link fence and it looked like a dinosaur attacked it.... fenders doors and bedside were ripped through
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Even the steel ain't that thick, it's what, 0,050"?
 
Short answer? No.

Reasons: too many variables. What condition am I in? What condition is the car in? Those two questions alone fence in easily a dozen scenarios.

If somebody knows an EMT (I know we've got a couple), their commentary would be very valuable. Stories about jammed seatbelts, broken knees, and busted noses from the airbag, all make it very hard to get the leverage to self-extricate.

Second reason: there are specialized tools that are intended to cut seatbelts and smash windows, even if you are upside down with a busted wrist. Do your research, because there is as much hype and false promises in this market as there is in "tactical knives".
 
Londinium Armoury said:
It's been awhile since we had a solid Cold Steel thread.
But seriously if you want a knife that can cut open car panels, look into metal shearing blades and their geometry, and go in that direction, metal chisel geometry also comes to mind, I have a hot working metal chisel that I use to cut thick steel rod into pieces with a 7lb club hammer. It's shaped like a wedge maybe 40 degree chisel ground bevel, maybe 45 degree?
Click to expand...
I'm not looking for that, it's simply a realisation I made. Just like I use reprofiled wood chisel at work to remove metal particle from welded pieces. Most use a paint scraper and I do too but if I want to hammer it I use the chisel. It's made for it anyway.

Metal is metal and if you are creative, many tool get more function
 
Shorttime said:
Short answer? No.

Reasons: too many variables. What condition am I in? What condition is the car in? Those two questions alone fence in easily a dozen scenarios.

If somebody knows an EMT (I know we've got a couple), their commentary would be very valuable. Stories about jammed seatbelts, broken knees, and busted noses from the airbag, all make it very hard to get the leverage to self-extricate.

Second reason: there are specialized tools that are intended to cut seatbelts and smash windows, even if you are upside down with a busted wrist. Do your research, because there is as much hype and false promises in this market as there is in "tactical knives".
Click to expand...
I said it a couple of time, but it's by curiosity. I know more than average about general metal use and I know under which condition I could use or not a knife. That why I said roof and door as I can't imagine getting trough any other metal part.

My main question was mainly if the edge could resonably hold until I've finished an opening in good condition. I know it's time and energy consuming, but if you have no choice, you have no choice.
 
WeekSecret said:
I'm not sure what you mean by those, the first one is a wierd axe, the second i think is really big and I don't know the last
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Universal Key
 
If that is a real concern, why fool around with a knife?

What you are ideally looking for is a crash axe.

s-l400.jpg


The Paratech axe above is expandable and the bottom can opener can be driven by impacting (collapsing) the axe against it or can be extended to provide extra leverage for the pick and axe head. It is not just about cutting up a car, but doing so quickly and efficiently enough to allow someone to escape.

n2s
 
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WeekSecret said:
I said it a couple of time, but it's by curiosity. I know more than average about general metal use and I know under which condition I could use or not a knife. That why I said roof and door as I can't imagine getting trough any other metal part.

My main question was mainly if the edge could resonably hold until I've finished an opening in good condition. I know it's time and energy consuming, but if you have no choice, you have no choice.
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Ah!

Well.

Busse Combat does come to mind, but Entrek, Mineral Mountain Hatchet Works, maybe some of Cold Steel's stuff, but the edge may not be in the nicest of shape when you're done.

TOPS Knives. Lots of their offerings would do it.

I would be looking for a carbon or tool steel (1095, 5160, 1080, D2), some of the stainless flavors could do it. Mostly, I would want to know the heat treat protocol.

Oh yeah: Miller Bros. Blades, and Extrema Ratio.

(I would buy the concrete cutter just to have one, though. "Why yes, officer. That is a self-extrication tool.")
 
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WeekSecret said:
Even the steel ain't that thick, it's what, 0,050"?
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Very true and some cars you wouldn't expect still run thicker panels

Windows will be the easiest way out in an emergency ... if your trying to get out by cutting your roof or doors from the inside ... you're screwed

All the plastic panels would be an additional pain in the ass , also if they are crushed in an accident would be nearly impossible from the inside

The main structure on vehicles now is pretty impressive I've seen some nasty crashes that people have survived because the crumple zones taking the impact and the inner structure staying rigid
 
not2sharp said:
If that is a real concern, why fool around with a knife?

What you are ideally looking for is a crash axe.

s-l400.jpg


The Paratech axe above is expandable and the bottom can opener can be driven by impacting (collapsing) the axe against it or can be extended to provide extra leverage for the pick and axe head. It is not just about cutting up a car, but doing so quickly and efficiently enough to allow someone to escape.

n2s
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Neat, where can I find one?
 
If you are going to try to cut through a door, you basically have to do it twice because of the inner door frame behind the interior door panel.
 
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