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Carbide Sharpeners?
- Thread starter BJE
- Start date
I have a set of them that I got from the Garrett Wade Co. out of New York City. The ones I got are made by ARNO which is a French company.
On some sharpening jobs I got some varied by interesting and questionable results from them. With what I know about them now I would never use them on a premium knife made with top notch blade steel. It is like the one brother said the carbide sharpener does indeed kind of have a "whittling" effect on the steel. It leaves a very jagged edge. On some old carbon steel knives I tried it on they did seem to get working sharp but leaving a very jagged, rough edge.
But the carbide sharpeners overall have a lot to be desired. There may be a job for them where they would be a good tool but I've yet to find it. And keep in mind the ones I got from Garrett Wade are supposed to be some of the best there are. Now the carbide burnishing tool I got in that kit has some possibilities for sure. But if you want to sharpen a knife>> then get a Spyderco 204 Sharpmaker or an EDGE PRo kit. This is truly where you indeed get what you paid for
On some sharpening jobs I got some varied by interesting and questionable results from them. With what I know about them now I would never use them on a premium knife made with top notch blade steel. It is like the one brother said the carbide sharpener does indeed kind of have a "whittling" effect on the steel. It leaves a very jagged edge. On some old carbon steel knives I tried it on they did seem to get working sharp but leaving a very jagged, rough edge.
But the carbide sharpeners overall have a lot to be desired. There may be a job for them where they would be a good tool but I've yet to find it. And keep in mind the ones I got from Garrett Wade are supposed to be some of the best there are. Now the carbide burnishing tool I got in that kit has some possibilities for sure. But if you want to sharpen a knife>> then get a Spyderco 204 Sharpmaker or an EDGE PRo kit. This is truly where you indeed get what you paid for
- Joined
- Jan 9, 2006
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- 374
I suppose you could use them to reprofile if they sharpened at an angle you wanted.
- Joined
- Oct 23, 2005
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- 549
They're intended for last resort purposes only because they shred the blade when you use it. They put a minimally sharp edge on the blade but a flat rock would do a better job. Avoid them at all costs. Get yourself a good field stone or an EZE Lap diamond sporstman's steel, the pocket size or their standard. Both are excellent for field use.
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- Oct 28, 2006
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They are pure crap. I wouldn't use them on an axe or machete. They strip metal away and destroy blades. They take off as much steel in one session as a diamond stone does in 20.
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- Feb 24, 2006
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I like Mine... I only use the Klawhorn sharpeners though. Dont have experience with any other carbides.
Have you guys actually used one? Or posting from hearsay?
A flat rock will not do a better job sorry. They are only pure crap and ruin blades if you force down on the blade with alot of pressure. LIGHTLY use them and they will get your knife razor sharp!!!!!!!!!!! Guaranteed.
I use mine on 420HC, ATS-34, and 154CM... All works great!
Just my .02
http://www.clawhorn.com/storefront/deptpage.aspx?deptid=5
They work fine, but I dont have a sharpener complex
LOL(just kiddin')
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- Oct 23, 2005
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If you have any doubt please look at your edge with a magnifying glass or loup mangnifier. They tear up blade edges.
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- Feb 24, 2006
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If I need a magnifying glass, it wont bother me...
I use it on my Buck Tempest EDC. When I get home after using it at work I dont want to spend 15 minutes putting an edge on it... I also have been using it on my 110 for years. No problems, and you cant even tell there is blade wear yet. Shaving sharp too. I do not use it on $200.00 knives but then again I wouldn't use a $200.00 knife
I like it!!! (JMHO)
Native Justice you I have spoke on both of these great Forums before and please believe me because I am not trying to be confrontational or hostile with you at all but simply want to learn more about these kinds of sharpeners.
But when you say that the Carbide Sharpeners "tear up blade edges">> well I am not sure by what you mean by that? As far as screwing up a knife edge you could use any kind of sharpening tool to damage a blade if you use it in the wrong manner.
The times I have tried to use the ones I got I never destroyed a blade by any means. Now I will admit that the results I've had with them have me scratching my head but I don't think that carbide ruins any kind of steel. But if they do then could you please be a bit more specific?
Also the Carbide sharpening tools I have which are made by ARNO (French company) that I bought from Garrett Wade seem to be quality made. They are far from being wal-mart junkers.
I guess my point is that anything that abrades metal would have some practical potential.
But even if they left a jagged edge like some of you guys purport that they do >> then how is that destroying the knife or the blade steel itself
? This is an interesting thread for a lot of reasons. You are all welcome to jump in on what I just said here about the TC sharpeners.- Joined
- Oct 23, 2005
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- 549
Thank you JD for your diplomatic approach. I have always respected you and your approach to various issues and positions. It is indeed refreshing and not taken as confrontational. I apologize if I also came across that way.
My point, to be specific is that when compared to a traditional sharpening method, the typical user will see the edge grind or bevel damaged; much more so than any other method I've used.
I'll admit that I haven't used the one or one's you may have experience with but have proven to myself that many (most?) carbide sharpeners literally shred the edge tearing metal away from the blade. No edge bevel is maintained; worse, as the edge fattens as the edge wears (or if an already dull edge is worked), you begin to tear metal from the blade above the original edge grind as the blade comes in contact with more of the "V" shaped carbide blades. It's even worse with steels with a larger carbide structure because larger "chunks" of the blade are torn from the edge.
If you have access to a magnifying glass or loup type magnifyier, I'd invite you to take a look for yourself.
The "finished" edge actually resembles a discontinuous burr along the entire blade edge.
Just my $.02.
All the best.
NJ
My point, to be specific is that when compared to a traditional sharpening method, the typical user will see the edge grind or bevel damaged; much more so than any other method I've used.
I'll admit that I haven't used the one or one's you may have experience with but have proven to myself that many (most?) carbide sharpeners literally shred the edge tearing metal away from the blade. No edge bevel is maintained; worse, as the edge fattens as the edge wears (or if an already dull edge is worked), you begin to tear metal from the blade above the original edge grind as the blade comes in contact with more of the "V" shaped carbide blades. It's even worse with steels with a larger carbide structure because larger "chunks" of the blade are torn from the edge.
If you have access to a magnifying glass or loup type magnifyier, I'd invite you to take a look for yourself.
The "finished" edge actually resembles a discontinuous burr along the entire blade edge.
Just my $.02.
All the best.
NJ