Carbon Fiber Sebenza

After disassembling my knife, the ti side says c11 and the cf side says b11. The stop pin isn't tapered though and has the grooves in it.
 
On mine there is no inside markings on the CF scale, but the stop pin is flared on the CF side:
6145ac86e8667bee2a22eefef09610af.jpg

I hope you can see it.
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I should have said "stop pin bushing" since that's what it is; but yours is not flared and was made in 2011 mine was made in C13 (the titanium side) and the birth card says 26jun14, so maybe they started using the flared bushing later than 2011, and they missed to mark my CF scale? I don't know; the fact is that it does get harder to open if I tighten the pivot screw, the stop pin doesn't affect the action whether it is tight or loose; one thing I noticed is that the pivot bushing is just a tiny bit prouder than the washer; of course I'm getting analytic; it doesn't really matter; the whole thing is just peculiar...it still works fine, and I like it a lot.
 
I think is just for support to the scale so when you tighten the screw, the pin doesn't crack the CF or digs into it; that's is the obvious reason to me but I could be wrong, I'm wrong all the time:)
 
My small CF Insingo was made 16th Nov 2015 and there is a flare on the stop pin. I too can't tighten all the way down or it will be too tight trying to flip open the blade.
 
That is a bunch of people with this slightly annoying issue*, someone with CRK should address this.:confused:

* Blade drags when pivot is tightened firmly.

NOT STAYING IDLE:
In order to test my theory (it's the Carbon Fiber scale causing this), I ordered a titanium scale to for the nonlocking side.
We will see what happens, maybe nothing:D. Either way, I have two looks with my Insingo, that is a good thing.
 
gull wing said:
NOT STAYING IDLE:
In order to test my theory (it's the Carbon Fiber scale causing this), I ordered a titanium scale to for the nonlocking side.
.
Click to expand...

Maybe I should call and ask but find it easier to ask here, if you don't mind, how much was the scale? I was thinking of getting a carbon fiber one myself; they're probably different prices but I can get a ball park from there, I think??

At any rate, I think your theory is correct.
 
makariotes said:
Maybe I should call and ask but find it easier to ask here, if you don't mind, how much was the scale? I was thinking of getting a carbon fiber one myself; they're probably different prices but I can get a ball park from there, I think??

At any rate, I think your theory is correct.
Click to expand...
I may be wrong but I don't think you can buy the CF scale like that unless someone makes an after market piece for it. These CF Sebenzas are only available exclusively from Knife Art.

Edit: I think I misunderstood your post. Do you mean you want to buy an entire CF Sebenza and get the titanium scale separately?
 
gull wing said:
Yes, makariotes mine has the same trait.(stiff action) That is why I don't tighten it too tight. Could it be the just the nature of Carbon Fiber?
Click to expand...

I'd look at different things regarding tight action before I would blame c/f. Is the pivot screw too tight? Is the detent ball too tall sticking out of the lock bar? Is the stop pin screw too tight? Proper lube? etc.......
 
Here's one of my rules of thumb: with the blade in the open position and your right thumb disengaging the lock, take your left hand and grasp the blade from behind and see how freely the blade swings back and forth. Or, with lock disengaged, rotate your right wrist up and down. When the wrist is facing down, gravity ought to be able to "grap" the blade and it should fall down freely. Careful doing this! Make sure your right thumb nail is oriented so that the blade edges hit your finger nail and not your flesh! Rotating the wrist back up, the blade ought to fall into the closed position.. Adjust the stop pin screw and the pivot screw together to tighten or loosen the action of the blade. There should not be any side to side play in the blade. If you have the screws too loose, there will be side to side play.

Too much lube can slow things down. I prefer a "dri" coating of Froglube on my folders

Also, some new knives need to be cycled OFTEN to loosen up the action.

Good luck.
 
These are all good instructions, I've done most of them with my Sebenzas.

Do you Have a Carbon Fiber 21 Barry H, they are different than my titanium ones?
 
I don't have a Reeve cf model. But I do know that most every manufacturer are using LVA carbon. Personally, I think it doesn't drill as well as some of the carbon material I used to buy. The resin doesn't seem as hard, so drilled holes are tighter than a hole drilled in steel, g10 or older c/f.
I tend to need to use a taper reamer to get the holes the proper diameter.
 
Fascinating, about the carbon fiber, sounds right.
Now I've made scales for my Sebenzas in the past in G10, they performed as well as the titanium.
 
Update!
The titanium scale I ordered for this knife came in this PM. We will see what happens when I put it on.
Maby nothing:confused:

Either way, I now have two faces:) for this knife.
 
gull wing said:
Update!
The titanium scale I ordered for this knife came in this PM. We will see what happens when I put it on.
Maby nothing:confused:

Either way, I now have two faces:) for this knife.
Click to expand...
Waiting to find out. Hope to hear your findings.
 
Got the titanium scale in(finally).
Nothing earth shattering here, the ti scale was not the "big" eye opener. Sure with the titanium scale, I can tighten the screws nice and tight, which is good.
I did find the Stop Sleeve was a tiny bit longer than the rest of the others(bushing, filler).
Conclusion:
I like the CF scale a lot, so I just tighten the screw slightly, then a tad of Thread Locking goo and live with it.:)
I can go with CF or plain Jane titanium.
 
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