Carbon fibre on Spyderco Paramilitary 2 S90V CF?

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evert67

Joined
Oct 22, 2011
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I've been offered a Spyderco Paramilitary 2 S90V CF over the Internet.

I've tried the regular PM2 and I loved it, but I couldn't stand the G10 handles. They're to grippy for me. (I don't use it in whet, bloody or oily conditions. And I do fine woodwork.) Therefore I was charmed by the S90CF with carbon fibre handles and even greater blade steel as a bonus.

However, I've read that the CF on the PM2 is quite different from that on the Navajo (and also on the Gayle Bradley and Sage, I think), which are quite smooth.

Can anyone tell me more about this? Is the CF on the PM2 more similar to G10 or more similar to the smooth CF on other knives?
 
It's like Spyderco's G10 handles. If the price is good, I would just buy it and get custom carbon fiber handles made to your liking. After all, you're buying it for the steel more than anything else right?
 
It's a grippy, peel-ply finish, akin to the Stretch CF. Totally different to the GB and Caly3 ZDP finishes.

I like it as a functional finish but the two knives listed above look prettier, IMO.

You could refinish the PM2 CF yourself (beware the dust from CF- nasty!) or save a load and refinish a G10 version (with its "lowly, cooking steel"!
 
It's hard for me to believe I'm saying this, but if you don't like Spyderco's G10 (which is btw the same as most other companies' G10), you should pass on this one. :eek:
 
I sanded the G10 handles of my cts-20cp gray PM2, because they were tearing up my pockets. I used 600 grit then 1500 grit paper, it turned out ok. You really only need to sand the clip side to prevent pocket wear. I wouldn't sand down a carbon fiber Para 2 though, its too much of a collectors item.
 
If you do, remember that synthetics like G10 and especially CF require very dust control. Wet sanding, ideally with running water, would work.
 
I'm rubbing my s90v cf Para2 and my Reg black g-10 and they feel very similar. The cf is a peel ply not at all like the Sage. And I agree with JNewell if u don't like g-10 you won't like the peel-ply. I gotta say I love mine as it has become the new king of my spydie collection, If u don't like it u could send it to me I wouldn't mind having 2 :D
 
Don't sand it down either thats just ridiculous. If u feel u need to sand it sell it and get something else.
 
jwolf90 said:
I'm rubbing my s90v cf Para2 and my Reg black g-10 and they feel very similar. The cf is a peel ply not at all like the Sage. And I agree with JNewell if u don't like g-10 you won't like the peel-ply. I gotta say I love mine as it has become the new king of my spydie collection, If u don't like it u could send it to me I wouldn't mind having 2 :D
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They are not just very similar, they are exactly the same.


Both use "peel ply" texturing, which is basically a layer of resin that is formed into a grip pattern. The process is exactly the same no matter what material sits beneath it. The only difference between the scales in the regular G10 model and the CF model is how the material under the peel ply looks. :)
 
CrimsonTideShooter said:
They are not just very similar, they are exactly the same.


Both use "peel ply" texturing, which is basically a layer of resin that is formed into a grip pattern. The process is exactly the same no matter what material sits beneath it. The only difference between the scales in the regular G10 model and the CF model is how the material under the peel ply looks. :)
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That's interesting. Do you mean there is actually a layer of raisin on top of the G10/CF? I always thought the extreme grippiness was a feature of G10 itself.
 
The resin is what bonds the layers of material together, when making G10/Micarta/Carbon Fiber. The main difference lies in the types of material used. I believe G10 uses fiberglass weave, micarta uses cloth or other absorbent organic material, and carbon fiber uses well, carbon fiber. These layers are laminated with an epoxy or phenolic resin that when fully cured, gives it strength and rigidity.

I'm not sure how the grippy texture is put on the scales, but some have the texture formed during the curing process while others might have the pattern machined on it after it has fully cured. Either way, they can be treated the same if you wish to smooth them out. I still say to have scales made and preserve the original ones if you have any intention of trying to retain as much of its value as possible.
 
if you buy textured G10 or CF scales blocks you'll see that there is a sheet of more or less coarse "canvas" stuck on one side. when you have finished shaping your scales you just peel this layer (ply?) off the scales and the "image" of the canvas stays on the surface of the resin.

i guess the canvas is impregnated with something that avoids sticking to the resin and laid there before it cures.
 
evert67 said:
That's interesting. Do you mean there is actually a layer of raisin on top of the G10/CF? I always thought the extreme grippiness was a feature of G10 itself.
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I don't know about raisins, but yes there is a layer of resin on top of both G10 and CF.

Those materials in their natural state are mostly slick.


Spyderco literally uses a "peel ply" layer. The resin sets in the shape of the "peel ply" and then it is peeled off, leaving you with their unique texture. :)


Info on Peel Ply:

Peel Ply isn't well known. It is typical G10 but has a thick plastic sheet on the top of it that you peel away and discard. The underside of this thick plastic sheet has a texture that is imprinted into the G10 during the curing process. When you peel the plastic, the texture on the top of the G10 is left. This gives you a high end look that can't be achieved by hand finishing.
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Guys, go to this link. Everything you ever wanted to know about CF. Click on chapter 2. It pertains to model rocketry but this guy knows CF.

http://www.rocketryplanet.com/content/view/3640/38/1/0/

Leaving the peel ply finish saves the manufacturer money, because they don't have to finish sand. It's like getting your car painted and then not wet sanding and buffing the clear coat.
 
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