Carbon steel in wet climates.

I usually prefer natural patina as well. If facing truly intense rust issues, though, I'd force one to keep the potential damage in check.
 
In addition to putting some kind of lubricant on the blade, let the sheath dry out completely and try sealing it. I have done several sheaths with a beeswax/neats foot oil mix that Wayne Goddard told me about, or use something like Montana Pitch Blend. If the sheath cannot absorb water, and you use some of the above lubricants, you should go a long way in preventing your blade from rusting. John
 
Poez said:
I am not a fan of forced patina though: do not see the point.
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In my case, I live in a very humid area, and a knife in pocket will get sweat on it. I've had several knives develop a pit, or spot before a natural patina has had time to develop. Now when I get a carbon folder I usually force a patina, and I have not had that problem.
 
I live near a river and a rain forest (Mission, BC) and have found that either Fluid Film or Sentry Solutions Tuf-Cloth, will keep your non-stainless blades looking like new. As I don't like a patina, these products make me a happy camper.
 
I get into some pretty damp environments, and I've taken to completely abandoning carbon steel. I usually carry a Benchmade Nim Cub for a fixed blade. I find it's just easier to not have to worry that the knife will pit and rust. Just my twin pennies.
 
Car wax that blade to keep the moisture away.

I also agree about coating the sheath in beeswax until it is entirely absorbed.
 
I agree, why not go with stainless there are plenty of stainless steels now that perform very well. such as S30V, XHP, Elmax and M390.
 
All though I think it's been covered already the biggest problem was the sheath, I use to make knife sheaths and the one thing I learned was make sure the leather you buy was vegetable tanned and not tanned with chromic acid that when wet will eat your blade up in a hurry. I would have a kydex sheath made in that environment then you don't have to worry as much.
There was a time not that long ago when all outdoors men had to choose from was hand forged blades and a lot of them used the animal fat to keep the rust from there knives and tools and some still might.
One more thing don't worry about what the blade looks like to much its a using knife and once you get the right sheath set up I think you will be all set.
 
Neatsfoot oil and similar leather treatments with lanolin in it will only soften the leather so that your sheath will lose it's shape and no longer be able to hold the knife snugly. Also not recommended for pistol sheaths or boots.

If you have a nice handbag to preserve, or cracked nipples to sooth, go right ahead! :thumbup:
 
Funny, because on their own web site, they recommend it for leather baseball mitts, leather saddles, & as a leather hunting boot conditioner. I have been using it for 20 yrs & have not had any of my leather sheaths "lose their shape" or "not be able to hold the knife snugly.". They also recommend it for pistols. If it did in fact do bad things to leather, i think i would have noticed it in the 20 years i have been using it & also doubt the company would be recommending it on their web site with all the liability issues in the legal system these days. But i guess you never know about those things.
 
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