Carborundum Sharpening Stone

It'll work pretty well either way. For quick touch-ups needing just a few passes, I've used mine dry. In that context, it doesn't seem to clog as quickly, or glaze like some AlOx stones might, if used dry. Even after I've used it dry, for touch-ups, I'm still in the habit of cleaning it up with a toothbrush and soapy water. For the bigger grinding jobs, I prefer to wet the stone with oil as I'd described earlier, as it keeps the larger accumulation of swarf out of the way, and also keeps the dust down (my sinuses appreciate it ;)).


David
 
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David Martin said:
Jackknife, I have that book and have read it and refer to it at times. That said, I don't agree with some of John's findings. I do agree with Heavy that this stone will glaze over from sharpening with dry use. Using oil keeps it clean. Nor do I sling oil all around the counter making a mess. I don't even put down paper under the stone to catch oil. Not one drop anywhere except on the stone. Wheres this huge mess folks keep talking about that occurs when using mineral oil on a sharpening stone? DM
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I only get a mess when I'm doing a ton of work and the stone keeps drying out, otherwise maybe half a teaspoon.

Using oil also provides one with a means to reclaim the grit, just drag a sheet of paper, dollar bill, etc when you're done grinding, and use that grit for a honing compound to take the edge up another notch. I keep a small piece of hacksaw with all my sic stones in case I want to whip some up and don't have to do enough grinding to really make any the honest way. The reclaimed grit has sharp edges all over from being chipped off the stone, whereas silicon carbide from lapidary shops or similar that has been graded/screened, tends to be more jellybean shaped. It works very well and across a wide range of steels and backings.

Martin
 
David Martin said:
Jackknife, I have that book and have read it and refer to it at times. That said, I don't agree with some of John's findings. I do agree with Heavy that this stone will glaze over from sharpening with dry use. Using oil keeps it clean. Nor do I sling oil all around the counter making a mess. I don't even put down paper under the stone to catch oil. Not one drop anywhere except on the stone. Wheres this huge mess folks keep talking about that occurs when using mineral oil on a sharpening stone? DM
Click to expand...

I guess it's a case of YMMV. So far in forty years, I haven't had a stone glaze over on me. I just use an old tooth brush and brush it off after and it's fine. :)
 
Ok. They are a good work-horse stones. They can make the dullest axe sharp. And will dish during the affair. DM
 
Bonded abrasives are comprised not only of grit but also of the binding agent. The specific grade of grit and what binder is used with what process to fuse the grains will have a large impact on the wear rate and cutting efficiency of the stone. I have a number of old Carborundum Co. American pattern scythe stones and while I've seen them worn out they're very hard-wearing. By the same token, Lansky scythe stones, Angelo B. "Smeriglio" stones, and others have a more rapid wear rate that exposes fresh abrasive grains much faster and need to be used with more gentle pressure than the harder stones to prevent accelerated wear.

As others have mentioned, if the stone has not previously been used with oil it is best to use water. It's nearly impossible to clean oil out of a stone once it's been oiled, however.
 
Since, we don't have someone here posting who works for St. Gobain / Norton we must speculate on some particulars of their products. Mine is Hecho en Mexico so items could have been substituted at this facility. DM
 
Hi
Have purchased old SiC stones - used with oil 'til loaded so probably didn't cut - and then left to dry for who knows how many years -

It's easy to reclaim 'em - sharpen a few times with oven cleaner (use appropriate gloves), then apply straight dishsoap to the stone and spray with water for several subsequent sharpenings - then just use dishsoap and water in a spraybottle - by then its usually resurrected; if oil continues to surface eventually, go back to straight dishsoap. .
Have reclaimed many run of the mill, and at least two of the much thicker and much longer ones.
Thanx 4 the forum, I enjoy learning!
 
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