Caring for black micarta inlays

Output

Output

Joined
Apr 19, 2010
Messages
151
Hello all,

Please excuse my ignorance. I just searched and didn’t come up with anything useful.

Is there anything special that needs to be done (maintenance wise) for the black micarta inlays? The micarta inlays are great for gripping when your hands are wet which is partly why I chose them. Yesterday I noticed that my hands were wet every time I used it and I am wondering if there is something I should be applying every so often for protection?

Thanks in advance,

-Output
 
No, Micarta is a most durable of handle materials available. I'ts impervious to moisture, dryness, temperature & almost anything you could think of. While I prefer natural materials for handles, Micarta is very practical for a hard use knife. It's also available in a color & texture for anyone's taste. I will sometimes wipe mine down with small dab of mineral oil & buff with a soft cloth, if its dirty. Stephen
 
Treat it like you would unstabilized ivory and you will be fine.

Just kidding:D

No worries with micarta:cool:
 
Sounds good. I didn't think there would be much I could do. It is a little absorbent or seems to be and I think that is what was bothering me.
 
What sonoran said. I use some mineral oil on my micarta handles. It seems to make them a little less likely to soak up any sweat or blood and it gives them a little richer look.
It's really just an aesthetic/personal thing though. Really no "needed" maintenance that I know of.
 
Output said:
Sounds good. I didn't think there would be much I could do. It is a little absorbent or seems to be and I think that is what was bothering me.
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It's only slightly absorbent in the top layer. Everything else should be soaked in epoxy and impervious.
 
Soak it in water and toss it in the freezer:D

Just kidding. I like soap and water for Micarta:thumbup:
 
richstag said:
Treat it like you would unstabilized ivory and you will be fine.

Just kidding:D

No worries with micarta:cool:
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richstag said:
Soak it in water and toss it in the freezer:D

Just kidding. I like soap and water for Micarta:thumbup:
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:jerkit: Thanks for the advise.

Like I said though...please excuse my ignorance. Thanks for all the replies! Soap and water it will be.
 
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What they said pretty much. The only absorbent part is the very surface, due to loose fibers that are no longer encased/saturated with phenolic resin. It's thermally stable enough to never worry about, arctic, death valley, all the same to micarta. While I'm sure mold and mildew could grow on it given enough neglect, I've never seen or heard of it happening, and if it did it would clean up easily. It's impervious to any chemical you're likely to get on it, including but not limited to:

Gasoline
MEK/paint stripper
Oil
Water/soaps/detergents
Mineral Spirits/paint thinner
Turpentine
Alcohol
Acetone
Bleach
Blood
DEET
Gunscrubber
... and many more.

The stronger cleaners will give it a white/chalky appearance, but that's just because they've stripped all the oils and contaminants from the surface, a bit of handling or a bit of oil/armorall or something will bring the color right back. About the only thing you don't want to do is stick it in a fire, and it'll usually be fine if it's not in there too long anyways. Stuff hotter than boiling water may cause it to warp, so don't bake it in the oven (yes people have done this).
 
Output said:
:jerkit: Thanks for the advise.

Like I said though...please excuse my ignorance. Thanks for all the replies! Soap and water it will be.
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Hey I was just joking with you. A quick google search of how canvas micarta is made will also yield you a better understanding of the material:thumbup::thumbup:

Don't mind my twisted humor:D
 
I was just poking a little fun back at you. No harm intended at all. :thumbup:

I fully understand what canvas micarta is. I researched it way before I ever even thought about my first purchase. Like I said originally (maybe I didn’t specify well enough), it was the top layer that was a little absorbent that kind of threw me for a loop…maybe I just wasn’t expecting it to pick things up the way it does. My problem is I work in manufacturing and at times I have all sorts of different products on my hands or gloves. I just wanted to make sure there wasn’t anything I was missing.
 
The only reason I clean micarta with soap and water is because it gets less grippy as oils build up on it. I don't really see it as a problem on a small folder. I really started doing it with my large choppers after I had one mineral oiled up and it flew out of my hand :)

I like to keep it relatively clean now. My micarta sebenza though I haven't cleaned yet and it used to get covered in different fuels and chemicals on a daily basis. I would say you are pretty safe to not worry about it at all ;-)
 
Not to hijack this thread, but I have a similar question regarding caring for ivory inlays. Specfically cream ivory inlays. Are these treated? Do they require any special attention?
 
Ajax Ademaro said:
Not to hijack this thread, but I have a similar question regarding caring for ivory inlays. Specfically cream ivory inlays. Are these treated? Do they require any special attention?
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Do you mean real ivory inlays or ivory micarta?

Real ivory would need some care, though I'm not sure what exactly as I don't own any.
 
Josh K said:
Do you mean real ivory inlays or ivory micarta?

Real ivory would need some care, though I'm not sure what exactly as I don't own any.
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I was referring to the mammoth ivory inlays currently offered by Chris Reeve. I was wondering if this is stabalized ivory? I'm sure in comparison to Micarta there will require more attention, but i would just like to know how much more? and specifically what that would involve? Is this ivory
 
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I don't have any Micarta handles anymore, but when i did, i used to lightly scrub them using a dish sponge, soap and water. they appear to absorb a lot of water but like many people have been saying they're actually pretty impervious. You will see evidence of this in its drying speed. they should only take a minute to dry, sometimes seconds.
 
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