Carving

Chris, that stamping looks beautiful. I've acquired a few different basket weave stamps, my favorite is the smallest one I have, and I believe it, too, has the diamond center. :)

There are a lot of ways to use antique. The best method I've found was from a very experienced craftsman. He dyes the whole thing whichever base color you want (I use a light brown), then use an acrylic finish like Super Sheen after the dye is dry. Once the acrylic is dry apply a liberal application of antique paying special attention to getting it into all of the impressions. I use a dense sponge from Tractor Supply (horse washing sponge) that I cut into cubes. Looking at it in good light at different angles will usually point out some spots to reapply on. Here's where me and the other guy differ. He leaves the antique on until it dries, then buffs. I remove all of the excess immediately, being careful to not pull the gel out of the impressions. The main reason why I do it differently is because the antique will darken the high points even with the acrylic seal. Removing it immediately allows it to color the highs less, leaving you with a little more contrast. After the whole mess dries you can finish with your favorite seal/finish.
 
Anthony, did you happen to pick that stamp up at Hobby Lobby?

I'm only half finished with the backgrounding. I'm also fighting the craptastic ebay tools. I knew I wasn't going to be getting quality tools but the A104 background tool is so horrid it might as well just be a small pear shader. I ended up using the small seeder for the background texture. Bed time for the little ones snuck up on me before the leather was ready tonight.

I'm not sure, this next question may be more geared to you fellas that have done bracelets and such. I am thinking about making a matching wrist guard to go with the quiver. I am hung up on how to fasten it though. Snaps likely wouldn't work as it would need to be adjustable according to the amount of clothing you have on. I thought about just using small buckles like would be used for horse tack. Should I do 3 straps or would 2 be enough? I also considered lining each side with grommets and lacing it together, but I am at a loss as to what to do with the loose ends after you tighten it so it doesn't loosen up. Any thoughts or advice here?

Chris
 
The "Real Leather" brand stamps in the tubes are US made Hide Crafter stamps. They are definitely a step up from the base level Tandy stamps and cost about the same. I did get it from HL. I think they are a great value. :)

Here's a look at the difference. Tandy on right. HC is a much heavier tool, and just obviously better quality. The plating on the tool is pretty good.

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I have minimal experience with archery guards. I think lacing is the most popular way to secure them? I've seen them with boot lace hooks (speed lacers), but I don't recall how the end is secured although I've seen those spring loaded toggle retainer things used.

If you do straps and snaps you can always install a couple (or more) of the female ends to allow for adjustment.
 
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I'm finally ready for dye. I think for this I'll have a lot better luck dying and antiquing prior to stitching them up. I think I am going to go with laces Anthony.
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I just remembered, these are the first pieces I've used my makers stamp on. I ended up getting the delrin stamp.
As always, critiques are welcome. I do think I am going to border stamp around the basket weave first from now on though. I seem to have better luck this way.
Chris
 
Omega Leather Works said:
I have minimal experience with archery guards. I think lacing is the most popular way to secure them? I've seen them with boot lace hooks (speed lacers), but I don't recall how the end is secured although I've seen those spring loaded toggle retainer things used.

If you do straps and snaps you can always install a couple (or more) of the female ends to allow for adjustment.
Click to expand...

Archery arm guards...aka "reversed vambraces" are typically trapezoid in shape and between 5 and 9 inches long. They need to cover the entire inside of the forearm from top to bottom and are most comfortable when they 'wrap around' the top and bottom of the arm.

Laces can be anything....from leather thong to nylon boot lace to elastic/shock cord. Laces are typically cinched tight at the wrist, moving back to the elbow and then a slider button in the back of the bracer [like a deer antler "button" or large skull bead] with or without 1/4" grommets...or boot lace hooks as you suggested.

The finish should be smooth and any carvings/stampings have their edges "rounded" so it doesn't catch/deflect the bow string.

Stains are optimum but painting is common. Paints should be sealed well with a rather thick application of whatever seal you are using.
 
There is an extremely talented guy in the German archers-campfire forum by the handle of tigama, who specializes in that kind of work, often very colorful.
http://www.archers-campfire.de/index.php?topic=8612.195;topicseen please note, you won't be able to see the pictures unless you register. However I can't and won't post pictures I don't have the rights to.

Long story short, there seems to be a trend for arm guards over here with a quick fastening setup... How to best describe it, ... On both long sides of the guards you have elastic straps attached on the wrist and the elbow side. You then use these straps to hook them over a button/lacing hook situated in the middle of the long sides.
Does this make any sense? I will try to see if I can get a picture or draw something.
This setup makes for a really quick fastening over the conventional lacing one or even the quick lacing.
 
Thank you vP, I'll have to check him out.

I had considered elastic as that is what my store bought guard has, but I just wasn't sure how it would look on this tooled leather to have elastic straps.

Chris
 
alright, since i couldn't find any picture i came up with this quick drawing (i hope it makes some more sense):

1 attaches to 3 and 4 attaches to 2.
now i guess it wouldn't work for an almost full wrap guard as it wouldn't create enough tension on the straps (depending on the material etc), but for a half or third wrap around it will work well enough. there are variations of this of course, with 2-3 loops on one side, quick fastening pulls with cord stops etc.
 
I use a compression type guard that you pull over your arm; fabric with a pair of hard slides down the inside. It goes over both bare arm and layers of clothing. What if you sew elastic all the way down the seam with enough overlap of the leather to conseal the elastic? Or put three pull straps with "sam brown" studs with holes to shorten or lengthen the strap? Or a type of hook?

Elastic might give up over the years though. Something else maybe?

And dont forget to leave room for a release strap if you use one.
 
vilePossum said:
alright, since i couldn't find any picture i came up with this quick drawing (i hope it makes some more sense):

1 attaches to 3 and 4 attaches to 2.
now i guess it wouldn't work for an almost full wrap guard as it wouldn't create enough tension on the straps (depending on the material etc), but for a half or third wrap around it will work well enough. there are variations of this of course, with 2-3 loops on one side, quick fastening pulls with cord stops etc.
Click to expand...

That will work especially with shock cord. Remember though, you want the arm guard to completely cover the inside of the forearm, wrap around to the opposite side and especially with using the hooks like so: [no these are not mine]:

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Yeah, I've come to appreciate a softer inner lining underneath the cord as well. But otherwise, you only really need to protect the inside of your arm against string slap. The rest is personal preference in my opinion. Heck, look at some of those tiny fita arm guards. ;)
Btw the first picture is a really nice example of another quick fix system. The second one I wouldn't wear, because the pointy end can catch onto the string too easily for my taste and do more harm than good.
Nice finds.
I will see that I take some pictures of my arm guards today, feeling better already.
 
bigun73 said:
I use a compression type guard that you pull over your arm; fabric with a pair of hard slides down the inside. It goes over both bare arm and layers of clothing. What if you sew elastic all the way down the seam with enough overlap of the leather to conseal the elastic? Or put three pull straps with "sam brown" studs with holes to shorten or lengthen the strap? Or a type of hook?

Elastic might give up over the years though. Something else maybe?

And dont forget to leave room for a release strap if you use one.
Click to expand...

How do you like the compression guard? I have been thinking about getting one myself as well.
 
Possum I love it. I have 3. One for practice, so my "stank" from summer and compatition doesn't transfer. One in my bow case for backup. And one that goes in my jacket pocket with a release through it. It will cove 3 to 4 layers pulled tight so no chance of interference and is still stays tight enough to use the next summer bare arm. Any more I find it tough to shoot without; not for protection but for mental comfort. All that to say I LOVE iT.
 
Looking good so far. Don't forget to buff the sheen with lamb's wool or a clean cotton tee shirt.
 
Good deal Chris. Havn't said much in this thread but have been following it. Looking good. What did you use for your backgrounding tool?
 
Thanks fellas. Dave, I ended up using a small seeder to background. As I mentioned before, the backgrounder I have was only smashing the leather, it wasn't leaving any texture at all. I thought you might also get a kick out of this. Karma got me back for my backwards pattern comment last week. Stitched my strap on backwards so now the snap is facing the wrong way. I now know why I was struggling to keep the holes lined up to stitch it together!:mad:
There are a whole list of things I'd do differently and to get a good look at the main stitch line it is horrid. I however was a whole lot of the tooling practice I was looking for.
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Thanks
Chris
 
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