Case CV - Has it changed?

Edge geometry and heat treatment are more important than the steel type. I still prefer carbon over stainless (and always will) but the knives with finely ground thin edges get more pocket time.
 
Edge geometry and heat treatment are more important than the steel type. I still prefer carbon over stainless (and always will) but the knives with finely ground thin edges get more pocket time.

I'm with you Don, thin edges make them cut better. With proper heat treat and grinds you can make a good knife from any tool steel.
 
Edge geometry and heat treatment are more important than the steel type. I still prefer carbon over stainless (and always will) but the knives with finely ground thin edges get more pocket time.

I'm with you Don, thin edges make them cut better. With proper heat treat and grinds you can make a good knife from any tool steel.

Well said Gents, and simply put that is the real receipt for a fine cutting knife.


Anthony
 
This should be the last thread on which steel is better. Thank you and good day. :D
 
I agree with Kerry, a pretty definitive discussion, and many thanks to all the knowledgeable participants, especially knarfeng and DHIII.

I think it's pretty easy to get snowed under by all the massive attention to "super steels," and for certain applications they are quantitatively better. BUT . . . I also think it's important to not forget just how "useable" a 54-56 HRc carbon blade is in a slippie. Easy to sharpen and a pure joy to use, without breakin' the bank. Thank you Case, for keeping CV around!
 
I'm with you Don, thin edges make them cut better. With proper heat treat and grinds you can make a good knife from any tool steel.

Have you experienced much difference in how thinly you can grind different steels and have them survive heat treating reliably? Production knives with high end stainless blades seem to have much thicker edges than I've seen on old carbon steel. I don't know these steels are prone to cracking in heat treat of if the makers are just trying to cut stock removal costs.
 
I'm with you Don, thin edges make them cut better. With proper heat treat and grinds you can make a good knife from any tool steel.
Tony, you know how much I like carbon steel, but I have this little swayback in 440V that is my favorite pocket knife. The gent who made it knows his stuff and it is the thinest ground pocket knife I own. Is a pleasure to use also. I'll show it to you in a few weeks :D
 
Thanks to Knarfedge and Mr. Bose and Mr. Hanson for their input. I have some stainless knives that I really like. I have some carbon steel knives that I like as well. The discussion has brought my knowledge and understanding up several notches. Thanks for answering my question.

I just got two Sodbusters in today. One is a yellow handled Case with CV blades and the other is a black handled Queen "Country Cousin". Even though the Country Cousin is D2, it arrived with what some of you folks call the "Queen safety edge". There is no way you could have cut yourself with it, bruise maybe but cut - no. I have spent a significant amount of time working to get this sharp with a lower bevel, but not quite there yet. My attention span is waning. Meanwhile, the Case, while not "scary sharp", is definitely sharp enough to use. Cheaper too (at least in my case). It is hollow ground pretty thin and should be easy to sharpen. Bottom line - I like it better by far out of the box. Maybe the Queen will turn into a great user - I do like the blade shape a little better as it has a little less belly and a little sharper point.

EJ
 
I hear ya on theD2 attention span. I have a canoe with that stout blade. I have not had the patience to thin that thing down. I always start on my Norton india coarse and go so long I feel like I'm just wasting steel. And it has a toothy grab and shave edge. But the further work on smoother stones just wears me out and produces no additional result.
 
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