Case CV Maintenance ( Proper Oil , Sharpening , Patina etc.)

S

sak_fan

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Feb 4, 2012
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I'm thinking of buying a Case medium stockman CV in yellow synthetic handles. I chose this because this will be my first Case and first CV knife. So if I fail in looking after it, it won't cost me much. I read some topics about the CV steel and patina. But i wanted to combine all the information in this thread.So my questions are:

1)I don't think I will use it in food preparations, maybe in urgent uses. I will use the knife mostly in EDC tasks. If the blade doesn't meet with the food acid, will a patina still be formed or will it rust because of oxidation? (I think I can oil it after each use)
2)If I use it in food and after a patina is formed , I can still cut food right? Will it contaminate the food?
3)Which oil do you suggest for all around use ?
4)Do you suggest a sharpening stone or a shapening system?
5)How often do i have to oil the joints?

I know these were discussed a millions times and I'm just thinking of buying a Case , maybe i will change my mind in time , but it would be a good discussion about CV maintenance in general.
Thanks
 
Great Choice! i edc my case yeller CV medium Stockman, in my pocket now much like it has been for a couple years now!
My suggestions:
1) Yes patina will form from use and carry, etc. unless you use somethig like Flitz, etc. (abrasives)
2) Might impart a slight taste with certain foods but nothing dangerous, depending on your oil choice
3) Mineral Oil, cheap, safe for ingestion if needed
4) I prefer freehand on a stone but alot of guys love the systems
5) every so often, little goes along way... a drop on the blades and lightly coating them.
regards
gene
 
Everything Ivan said.

I love my carbon blades. In fact, it is all I carry now. I love the patina and I use it for all kinds of stuff including food prep. The patina will sometimes leave a little metallic taste on acidic foods, but it doesn't bother me. I rarely clean or oil my blades. In fact, with a good patina, I find I can just rinse the blade and wipe it on my pants and I'm good to go. Never had any rust. But I live in a dry climate, so YMMV.
 
Hi guys!

Ivan already told you the most.

I use my Yellow Stockman for food prep and don´t have any problems with it. I usually not oil the blades, but the joints. The blades become oiled, when the knife has lost its sharpness, then I usually oil the blades with a little film. But when cutting an apple or openening a package the most oil is gone. So why should I do that to often ;). I oil my joints everytime I clean the knife. Roundabout every two weeks. I use Ballistol weapon oil for this. It´s food-proof ;) !

I have a Spyerco Sharpmaker and a couple of free hand stones. I use, in which "mood" I am at the sharpening and honing day. When I have enough time I use a japanese waterstone. Works great. But the same edge gets on the knife with a sharping system (spyderco sharpmaker). I depends on the time I want to spend with sharping knives.

IMG_1094.jpg


This is the patina, the knife got with food prep. Like apples, bread and meat/sausages ;)
I just wanted to show off.

Kind regards
Andi
 
A knife whether it be constructed of CV or Stainless is best maintained as any other tool is by keeping it clean and well oiled.

Get a good stone to keep it sharp. A good combination soft (medium)/hard (fine) Arkansas stone will do the job.

Most of your questions would best be answered in the Maintenance & Tinkering Forum -- especially, the sharpening questions.
 
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thanks ivan and all of you for information by the way nice pic humppa! i think i'm gonna buy one :D and don't worry modoc , i will be more careful about sections
 
No no -- that's not what I meant. I just meant there are hundreds of threads there about sharpening and that's where you'll strike gold on the subject.
 
I'm making an assumption, based on your user handle (sak_fan), but:

Whatever you might be using to sharpen up your SAK knives (if applicable), it should work as well with CV. Both are pretty straightforward steels, and don't need anything special in terms of abrasive type. If you use diamond hones, I'd just recommend going very, very lightly with the pressure, and watch very closely for the burr formation. A burr can be worked up and then erased very quickly on these steels, when using diamond. So you really need to watch what's happening with each pass on the hone. Light pressure on ceramics also, which can create quite a burr if pressure is too heavy. Ceramics won't be as aggressive in removing it, though.
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
I'm making an assumption, based on your user handle (sak_fan), but:

Whatever you might be using to sharpen up your SAK knives (if applicable), it should work as well with CV. Both are pretty straightforward steels, and don't need anything special in terms of abrasive type. If you use diamond hones, I'd just recommend going very, very lightly with the pressure, and watch very closely for the burr formation. A burr can be worked up and then erased very quickly on these steels, when using diamond. So you really need to watch what's happening with each pass on the hone. Light pressure on ceramics also, which can create quite a burr if pressure is too heavy. Ceramics won't be as aggressive in removing it, though.
Click to expand...
i think i'm gonna go with a sharpening system
Modoc ED said:
No no -- that's not what I meant. I just meant there are hundreds of threads there about sharpening and that's where you'll strike gold on the subject.
Click to expand...

by the way don't worry man i understood that :)
 
'cept the trapper lives in California now, as i hate trappers and gifted it away, hate is too strong a word really, just never could get into them...
anyways this is what CV can look like if let go and used on food (lots of Fruits and Veggies) i use mine with food alot, so results may vary, and actually i ended up steel wooling off some of the patina a while back, though it's about to this point again...
gene
patina.jpg
 
SAKFan,

Patina is totally normal and the way knives should look, at least prior to stainless. It actually helps resist both rust and transference of taste to foods. In terms of resisting rust, this only really scones a factor in really wet or humid conditions or when the knife will sit unused for a long period of time. On my EDC knives, I prefer patina.

You can find pure mineral oil in drug stores sold as a laxative. It is safe for human consumption and it's what I use for joints, honing and protecting the blades.

In terms of sharpening, everybody has the favorite. I think this is one of those things where the best system is the one you are best with in terms of familiarity and practice. I don't have time in my life to get good at free hand sharpening so I use a Lansky rod type system. This consistently produces shaving sharp edges for me.

I supect you'll be in for quite an adjustment period coming off of alox. Carbon blades do t stay perfect looking for long. In the end, I worry less with allowing the blades to patina. If you don't care for patina, I found that Blue Magic will restore most carbon blade to a shine with ease.
 
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