Case Red Bone CV

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Aug 31, 2006
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461
Alright, well I've decided on a CV Peanut in red. Figured I may as well go ahead and bite the bullet and see what all the fuss is about the peanut. Since I already have some of their yellow delrin, but no bone, this seemed like a logical choice. Was hoping you guys could post some pictures of red bone knives. I've heard that the dye jobs can be a bit hit or miss, and even pink at times. Is this true?
Thanks in advance.


Gautier
 
Alright, well I've decided on a CV Peanut in red. Figured I may as well go ahead and bite the bullet and see what all the fuss is about the peanut. Since I already have some of their yellow delrin, but no bone, this seemed like a logical choice. Was hoping you guys could post some pictures of red bone knives. I've heard that the dye jobs can be a bit hit or miss, and even pink at times. Is this true?
Thanks in advance.


Gautier
Great minds..... I also just ordered a red bone CV Peanut to see what all the fuss is about. I decided to take a chance on the color since I don't have any red bone knives yet.

Richard
 
All the red bone case xx knives are very red,no problem with the dye that I can tell.enjoy the peanut it is a great pattern.
 
While I'm not a fan of the Newer Case Red Bone, I find it is generally fairly consistent in color and it is definately RED As a side note, I've found that most custom slipjoints, when scaled with bright red bone, tend to sell rather poorly.
 
I have a Case red bone 2006 large wharncliff copperhead CV .Red bone is actually red .My best Case knife .Agree with Durnwood ,I feel there is a slight downmarket attitude to red bone.
 
Durwood is right on the mark. Some(but not all) of the extremely bright red bone Case and others have produced in recent years reminds me of a cheap whores lipstick. I much prefer the old vintage red bone that you would find on slipjoints prior to the late 1970's and 1980's. And some of Case's very recent red bone is rather hit and miss in my opinion. Let me see if I can post some examples here for comparison per Gautier's request..

A red bone Case 1940-64..

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And another..

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And here's an example of that lipstick I mentioned from Case's 2002 production..

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A 2007 Case..

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Sorry, I thought I had some example's of Case Peanut's too, but I cannot find them right at the moment.
 
And if you'll look at the cap end of sunnyd's Wharncliffe Trapper you'll see where the white bone is peeking through the red. My current RB knives have a pink tinge in this area as the color fades out near the edges.

Case currently makes a "Pocket Worn Old Red Bone" family, which is much nicer IMO, but there are no CV blades available in the series.

-- Sam
 
And if you'll look at the cap end of sunnyd's Wharncliffe Trapper you'll see where the white bone is peeking through the red. My current RB knives have a pink tinge in this area as the color fades out near the edges.

Case currently makes a "Pocket Worn Old Red Bone" family, which is much nicer IMO, but there are no CV blades available in the series.

-- Sam

Sam is correct. I sold this one and picked up another that had a more uniform red bone for this very reason.

I also have some of those Pocket Worn's kicking around here someplace that Sam mentioned and I will hunt them down and get a photo or two to post here if'n any of y'all are interested in seeing them.
 
My son and I bought matching redbone peanuts last year. I soaked mine in mineral oil and it is now several shades darker than my son's knife, which never received the mineral oil treatment.
 
Thanks for the photos guys. That's what I was wondering about, where the white was peaking through. Hopefully I get a good specimen, if not I may try that mineral oil treatment and see if that helps deepen the color. If nothing else it at least gives me a chance to try out the pattern and see if I like it.


Gautier
 
sunnyd,

I agree with your assessment and comparisons of the old Case bone versus today's cheap whore's lipstick red.

Thank you for the nice pictures to assist in the thread.

Do not wash these new Red Bone (or any new bone of colors) in dish washing soap such as Dawn, or Palmolive.

A group of us , moms and kids were doing "knife stuff" on the property.
Whittling, messing with the garden, breaking down cardboard boxes, cutting rope...etc.

Some of the folks washed up outside with garden hose, with Dawn.
Others inside with Palmolive.

You know how you do, you handle and get "sticky stuff" off a knife blade.
New Red bone, and other colors "bled" and lightened up.
The kids were real upset.

Mineral oil and I believe Glycerin was used, and the color "saved" and "darkened".

We took an old Case Red Bone, and tested it with Palmolive, it did not bled, or lighten in color.

My take has to do with knives for collectors, versus users.

Baby Shampoo does not seem to affect this new Red bone or other colors.

It is best we share and pass forward such matters, as traditional knives get a lot of sentimental value attached to them.


Steve
 
So, my Peanut arrived today. Initially, I was a little disappointed. The white does show through quite a bit in some areas, which isn't a huge deal, it gives it a bit of character. What disappointed me was having to remove a fairly large burr,the tightness of the blades(nail breakers for such a tiny knife) and what appeared to be some type of black/grey grit in the pivots.
Case lists the knife as measuring 2 and 7/8ths inches long, my ruler puts it closer to 2 and 1/2 but it looks to be solidly constructed and I'm going to give it the benefit of the doubt unless it proves too small for a task.
After a thorough cleaning and such I'll try to get some pictures up, maybe tomorrow. I can say that I have a Peanut now, and it'll give me the chance to try out the pattern.
If I don't like it, my wife seems to be taken with the little knife, so it'll at least have a good home.


Gautier
 
Sorry that I waited too long to contribute to your topic before you ordered...

My Case CV peanut is bright red. Not bad, but I would definitely prefer a more "mature" red, like the Amber red bone used by Schatt and Morgan. Of course the S&M is available only in 420 stainless, so it's a major trade-off either way.

The white does show through quite a bit in some areas
It's 'imperfections' like that, that can make a mass-produced knife unique; mine is solid red with no white at all.
 
No worries, like you said, it makes it unique. I kind of like the character that it gives the knife, it was mostly the other things that irked me; Too tight blades, grime and grit, uneven edge bevels with a huge burr, shield stamped too hard almost illegible, etc.
It's in my pocket though and it's growing on me. Already bit me once while trying to clean the wells near the tang, so I guess it's truly "mine" now :p
I think it'll make a nice unobtrusive "around the house" knife that won't weigh my pajamas down too much :D.


Gautier
 
Sorry to hear that your's has some 'issues'. The build quality of mine is very nice with none of the specific problems you mentioned.

Next time you're traveling through Missouri, stop at Shepard Hills Cutlery and pick out your Case knives in person. :)
 
Is it just mineral oil that will save and darken the color?
Do you soak the knife?
Will just painting it on the scales work?
Will other oils work?

Thanks,
 
I use unscented baby oil which I assume IS mineral oil..
Sometimes I soak a knife or two overnight in a dish of it, cigar tubes can be handy for this as well.
Othertimes I wipe over the scales with a rag and let it soak in, i think this also helps against shrink back- live in a very dry warm block of flats where humidity is very low and bone,stag,wood leather etc can suffer.This treatment also works well on micarta handles from Bark River and the like. Oil treatment will darken scales(not all though)so you need to watch out if you prefer a light colour.It also helps get muck out from inside the knife,protect against rust of course and prevent bleedback-where brass liners develop green verdigris corrosion which can stain pins or light scales.

Try the wipe over treatment first and see how you like it,watch out you don't drop anything though when slippery......
 
As promised, here are some pictures.

RedBone001.jpg

RedBone002.jpg

RedBone003.jpg

RedBone004.jpg


Not sure if it's my poor photography skills or the brightness of the sun, but they don't really show how much the white is coming through on the broad sides of the scales. The edges came out alright, and that's about how the scales look near the bolsters too.
Sorry for the finger prints, and please ignore the distorted man in the bolster :p
I think this little one is starting to grow on me some, despite it's "character flaws". Now if only I could get these backsprings to loosen up a bit. Any ideas?
Cleaned out most all of the grime and grit and left the pen blade about 1/3rd open for a while. The clip blade seems to be coming along and isn't as tight now. Maybe it's just a matter of leverage and I'm not used to opening such short blades?


Gautier
 
Of course the S&M is available only in 420 stainless, so it's a major trade-off either way.

Not to derail the thread here, but--isn't that exactly what Case's Tru-Sharp is?


Nevermind, I missed the "CV" right at the beginning. Time for more coffee...
 
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Not to derail the thread here, but--isn't that exactly what Case's Tru-Sharp is?
The Case red peanut is also available in carbon steel. So you have the choice of bright gaudy red and carbon steel (Case), or a nice amber red with low-end stainless (S-M).
 
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