Case stainless steel

kamagong said:
There are several Case lines that are obviously marketed for collectors. Here's a quick sampling -

Texas Special
John Deere
Masonic
Lawmen of the Old West
Brooks & Dunn
Sturm Ruger
Johnny Cash
John Wayne
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Marketed to collectors, sure. But other than sporting a different handle scale (and in some cases, a spiffier bolster), are these knives any different than, say, a yella trapper with SS steel, a knife I think most guys would agree is seen as a worker?
 
mnblade said:
Marketed to collectors, sure. But other than sporting a different handle scale (and in some cases, a spiffier bolster), are these knives any different than, say, a yella trapper with SS steel, a knife I think most guys would agree is seen as a worker?
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I would hope not. But then again, if I wanted a Case knife for a worker, I'd stay away from the SS and go for the CV.

- Christian
 
mnblade said:
Marketed to collectors, sure. But other than sporting a different handle scale (and in some cases, a spiffier bolster), are these knives any different than, say, a yella trapper with SS steel, a knife I think most guys would agree is seen as a worker?
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The stainless in the 'collector' knives from Case is exactly the same 'Tru-Sharp' stainless as you'll find in the stainless 'worker' knives. The only difference you might see is that some of the 'worker' knives will have a satin finished blade, whereas the others will usually have a polished blade. Same steel, different finish.

Case does occasionally offer some premium steel (like 154CM) in limited run knives, but those knives are a LOT MORE EXPENSIVE than the standard line knives.
 
Spongebobby said:
Does anyone know what Cases current stainless is? Edge retention? Hardness? All help appreciated.
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'Tru-Sharp' stainless is the current offering. It's 420HC by a different name, and most accounts say it's around mid-50s on the RC scale. It seems to me, to be a bit better than that might imply. Holds an edge pretty well. Wire edges can be an issue with it, but once those are cleaned up, it's pretty decent stuff. They've been using it for quite a while.
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
'Tru-Sharp' stainless is the current offering. It's 420HC by a different name, and most accounts say it's around mid-50s on the RC scale. It seems to me, to be a bit better than that might imply. Holds an edge pretty well. Wire edges can be an issue with it, but once those are cleaned up, it's pretty decent stuff. They've been using it for quite a while.
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Thanks man, you must be like Obssessed with edges or something.
 
In my findings Buck's 420hc is better than Case's 420hc. However I prefer Case knives because Buck's are all these very deep hollow ground edges. They're good for cutting some things, but very much limited in others.

Case's Tru-Sharp has a unique property in my opinion: it sharpens up very well with natural stones. When I had a sodbuster jr. I used to sharpen it exclusively on a natural japanese Iyoto stone or a soft arkansas stone, I find it holds that toothy edge well, much better than it holds a very polished edge. It seemed to me to work as well as a carbon steel when it came to a toothy rough edge. Buck on the other hand is good with a very polished edge.
 
I find that the Tru-Sharp Case knives I have take a wicked edge that holds up decently in real use around my small ranch. If they get a little dull, that's what they make a sharpening stone/steel...or a nice flat piece of flint..or the bottom of a coffee mug for! I don't understand this obsession with an edge that will "last forever." I have owned a good number of knives in the past that were some type of "wonder steel" and sharpening them under field conditions was "interesting" at best. I would take any of my Tru-Sharp Cases with me for use on the ranch or in the field with no problem...I'd just bring along my stone!

Regards,
Ron
 
Javelin said:
In my findings Buck's 420hc is better than Case's 420hc. However I prefer Case knives because Buck's are all these very deep hollow ground edges. They're good for cutting some things, but very much limited in others.

Case's Tru-Sharp has a unique property in my opinion: it sharpens up very well with natural stones. When I had a sodbuster jr. I used to sharpen it exclusively on a natural japanese Iyoto stone or a soft arkansas stone, I find it holds that toothy edge well, much better than it holds a very polished edge. It seemed to me to work as well as a carbon steel when it came to a toothy rough edge. Buck on the other hand is good with a very polished edge.
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Latrobe Steel, manufacturer of 420HC (and therefore Tru-Sharp), initially recommended heat treat up to mid-50s on the RC scale. Case has apparently stuck with that, and Buck's famous 'Paul Bos Heat Treat' method took it a bit beyond, up to 57-58 RC or so. I have no doubt that has made a difference in Buck's reputation for durability of their edges (despite being somewhat thin). At the same time, Case's blades, being a little softer, are just a tad easier to sharpen by more conventional means, like natural stones. The one main gripe I've had with Case's lower RC is, the blades are more ductile as a result. Makes for much more stubborn wire edges on the Case knives I've sharpened, because the wire edges won't break off as easily (they just keep flipping side-to-side). Conversely, a wire edge on the slightly harder, less ductile Buck edge is easier to clean up, due to just a little more brittleness in it, which allows it to break off like it should.
 
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rwc53 said:
I find that the Tru-Sharp Case knives I have take a wicked edge that holds up decently in real use around my small ranch. If they get a little dull, that's what they make a sharpening stone/steel...or a nice flat piece of flint..or the bottom of a coffee mug for! I don't understand this obsession with an edge that will "last forever." I have owned a good number of knives in the past that were some type of "wonder steel" and sharpening them under field conditions was "interesting" at best. I would take any of my Tru-Sharp Cases with me for use on the ranch or in the field with no problem...I'd just bring along my stone!

Regards,
Ron
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Well said:thumbup:

That's the other side of the coin. Sometime, no matter what wonder steel the knife is made out of, it's going to need sharpening. Sometimes this takes place while out someplace, where the gadget, gizmo or whatever you use, is not available. This means a small hideaway sharpener in a pocket or wallet, or a coffee mug, or even a smooth stone from a creek.

Give me an easy to sharpen knife any day. Case, sak's, Opinels, old U.S. made Schrade Old Timers. All easy to sharpen up quick, and hold it for a decent amount of time. Wonder steel at high hardness ain't worth a darn if when it goes dull, and it will, it's too hard to touch up in the field.

Carl.
 
I touch up my edge after use,so my blades never really get dull.The type of steel does'nt mean as much to me as long as it will take a good edge.I always put my own edge on a knife when I get it.
 
I use to feel the same way about the hard vs soft blades back in the day when natural stone was about all the average person had avalable to use. Today they make diamond and ceramic "steels" IF you need to touch up these harder blades, and they are quite portable, even one for your wallet!;) Granted you can probably bring that rolled wire edge back to center on your work boot, and you can sharpen CV or True Sharp to a toothy edge on the bottom of a coffee mug. Because you will more than likley need to before you finnish your cutting chore with the softer blade.:grumpy: I'm in the harder steel camp now days!
 
Thundarstick,

I have sharpened everything from old 1095 and O-1 steel to 154CM, S30V and any of the other "wonder steels" with everything from an Arkansas stone to a diamond sharpener. I hear what you're saying, but I'm still not in the "harder steel" camp. I've carried and used all types of knives from Case pocketknives, Buck folders and fixed blades, Randalls (both carbon and stainless versions, and yes, I've used them...a career in Special Operations will do that), Chris Reeve Sebenzas, and a multitude of other knives. But I've come back to my roots, so to speak. I will take a Case, or an older Solingen carbon steel blade...or my Randall 5-4" over the others these days. That's just my opinion, and my preference now.

Regards,
Ron
 
I'm in the minority here as I actually prefer Cases SS to Bucks. To me CV and SS keep an edge the same and sharpen real easy, the only advantage for me is seeing the nice patina coming in on the CV.
 
My experience with harder steels it that they become a pain to sharpen, and never truly get sharp again. Plain ol' SS or carbon just takes a better edge.
 
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