Case vs. Queen

I prefer Queen, although I did have a Case CV medium stockman with great steel. Their D2 is a better steel than the Trusharp SS junk, no questions asked. I have never gotten a good Case with SS steel. I love most of their designs, but getting CV is hit or miss.
 
rprocter said:
P.S. my Case seahorse whittler in CV is one of my very favorite pocket carry knives. super cutter and feels great in the hand.
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Where did you find a CV Seahorse? I was under the impression that they were all TS. What handle material? Pics? It's not that I don't believe you, I just want one!

FWIW, I agree with your comments on D2/CV/TS wholeheartedly. In fact,

Gramps said:
...or give up the knife. I like the way D2 holds an edge...but brother, at my age I find it almost too much work to get a dull edge up to speed !
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Well said!

-- Sam
 
Tony was kind enough to get back to me and told me that he thinks that Case uses "properly heat treated" 1095.

Until I get a more definitive answer from someone who absolutely knows, that'll be good enough for me. :cool:

Thanks, Tony, for the help and your participation and contributions to this forum! :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
 
Whoa there! I'm with ParaGlock...a CV Seahorse?!?...also not doubting, just wanting...

If there was one knife I wish Case did in CV, it would be that one.
 
Take a look at the "55" pattern Case Classics wharncliffe whittler in carbon steel.
 
ras said:
Unfortunately, 1095 has neither chromium nor vanadium.
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ras, you bring up an excellent point! (What does that Bose fella know about knives anyway? ;) )

Well, I've seen certain well known makers state unequivocally that it both IS and ISN'T the same steel as referred to above in the earlier post so it seems we're back to square one. (I know for a fact from my former sources at Camillus that Carbon V came in various incarnations.)

Okay, so who's going to take on the challenge of contacting Case and finding out?
 
Blues, you are saying that the factory edge was fantastic, once you had removed the large burr and finished it up on your finest hone. I bet you get a lot of super sharp factgory edges this way. LOL
 
A. G. Russell said:
Blues, you are saying that the factory edge was fantastic, once you had removed the large burr and finished it up on your finest hone. I bet you get a lot of super sharp factgory edges this way. LOL
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Got me there, A.G. :thumbup: ;) (Who says you don't have a sense of humor? :p )

I guess I expressed it that way because it took all of a minute or two to have it just right whereas I've spent hours on some of the Queen knives I've purchased. (You could feel that the edge was properly thinned right from the factory. It'd have been nice if they finished the job though. You're right.)
 
By the way, I just got off the phone with Case.
Unfortunately, the fella I needed to speak to is out due to a death in the family.

The result was that I was given the standard answer which is insufficient to provide any further clue as to the identity of the steel.

A.G., perhaps you can help with this?
 
Hello All,

This is my first contribution to the forum. I have enjoyed reading the many post about various steels, companies, etc. I am not new to the art of collecting though I am new to the knife world. So, take my opinions as you will.

There are pros and cons to every steel, handle material (the list goes on and on). However, a knife being sharp enough to shave hairs (out of the box) is not a concern of mine. It can be sharpened...though some steels are much more challenging than others to work with. A knife not being "as sharp as preferred" is only a matter of inconvenience (assuming you are not using the knife for survival purposes). As long as, the quality of the materials, design format and construction are solid then it becomes strictly a matter of preference for me.

Case makes a solid product. Several of their jigging patterns are exceptional. I enjoy their interpretation (or creation) on five knife patterns only: Cheetah, Large Texas Toothpick, Moose, RussLock and Saddlehorn. Canoe not being one of them.

However, the post questioned the preference of steel. In my whopping four months of collecting....I have acquired mostly production slipjoints. Forty seven are mint Case knives (all given to me except three). I live with eight Queen, two Robeson, five Schatt and Morgan and two Canal Street (all I have purchased). My edc rotation is strictly Queen or Spyderco. I enjoy D2 over Chrome Vanadium or Tru-Sharp. D2 does require more attention but to me it is worth the investment.

Never experienced (so far) a lousy edge grind, weak springs or blade play with Queen. However have had some sour experiences with Case.

Most steel should be given a chance (at least once) as only "you" can determine what meets your needs. Nothing beats hands on experience. Though seeking information is key to avoiding poor purchases.
 
about my CV seahorse whittler. well ----- my newbieism is showing ! i mixed it up with my Case wharncliffe copperhead. but to me anyway, it sort of shows that i can't tell a difference in how they cut. my daily use is mostly gardening/landscaping type chores and hunting and both Case steels do a fine job. i could use my Hinderer XM 18 if i really wanted to be sure that i could cut everything, but i don't really need it, and might lose it.
 
Welcome to the forum, kcblade, and thanks for your well thought out post.
 
I'd like to agree with what's been said about CASE quality. I have only 5 of their knives all SS (I'm that freakish modern type that usually dislikes rust,metal stink and constant maintenance demanded by carbon...) but all have been made since 2004 and are EXCELLENT in terms of fit,finish,performance and value. No gripes at all,seems to me if you buy CASE you won't be disappointed, just choose the steel you like and satisfaction guaranteed! Moreover, it's an authentic American brand with past,present and future.:thumbup:
 
The only Queen in D2 that I own is a Copperhead. I get micro-chips in the edge (visible at about 5x) just from sharpening it at 30 degrees inclusive with the Sharpmaker. I have to sharpen at 20° per side with only the medium rods to get a stable edge; finishing with the fine rods at that angle leads to micro-chipping when cutting cardboard that's visible at 100x.

Is that normal for D2? The blade does seem to hold an edge for a good amount of time and it's a very aggressive slicer, but I personally prefer to have an edge that's a bit thinner and not quite as coarse.

I've carried and used several Case knives with Tru-Sharp blades and I actually like the steel. (I'm a reformed steel snob. :) ) It's easy to sharpen and it gets very sharp. Since it's a low carbide steel, it has good edge stability (it can hold an ultra-sharp edge for longer).

420HC (I'm assuming that's Case's SS) isn't very wear resistant though. It's great at push cutting, but its long term edge holding when slicing is really poor compared to steels with big carbides, like D2. As another poster mentioned, thin edges on the Tru-Sharp blades can also dent or roll easily if they hit something hard.

If there's a particular Case knife that you're thinking about buying, and it only comes in stainless, I wouldn't be afraid of trying the Tru-Sharp.
 
cerulean said:
The only Queen in D2 that I own is a Copperhead. I get micro-chips in the edge (visible at about 5x) just from sharpening it at 30 degrees inclusive with the Sharpmaker. I have to sharpen at 20° per side with only the medium rods to get a stable edge; finishing with the fine rods at that angle leads to micro-chipping when cutting cardboard that's visible at 100x.

Is that normal for D2?
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I don't know if it's "normal", but that's exactly my experience with Queen D2.

I also get tired of hearing people describe Tru-Sharp as "junk" or whatever, when it does the job that 99% of people need out of their pocket knives. It gives people new to knives a needlessly negative perception.

-- Sam
 
Thanks all for answering my questions, I believe I'm just going to go with a basic canoe pattern in Tru-Sharp for my first foray into slipjoints and then go from there. Once again its the genuine love of knives that keeps bringing me back here for information, I know I'll get sincere answers out of all the fine folks here.
 
Some ACE hardware stores have a good selection of Case in both Trusharp and CV. You may want to look there so you can hold the knife and assure it's really what you want. Some Bass Pro shops have them too.
 
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