Case XX SS blades

My first clue that TruSharp might be soft was I kept getting little sections of rolled edge on my small stockman that I carried for years. I figured out that I was getting these by pulling or removing staples. I never determined if I was prying with the edge or just running it against one of the legs of the staples. I guess staples are harder than you might think or maybe it was the point stress contact or both. If I use a knife to pull a staple I am not careful to pry with the spine. I have not tested other knives for this problem so I don't know if it is really because TruSharp is soft or that is just abusive. Other than that, TruSharp has been fine for my needs. I think Id rather have something that sharpens up quickly and easily than something that holds an edge better.
 
Don't know it for sure, but I kind of suspect they picked Trusharp so they had something similar to the CV as far as hardness, sharpening was concerned. I think for use, Trusharp is fine. I prefer the CV because it ends up looking old school.
 
Don't know it for sure, but I kind of suspect they picked Trusharp so they had something similar to the CV as far as hardness, sharpening was concerned. I think for use, Trusharp is fine. I prefer the CV because it ends up looking old school.

I'd noticed that once sharpened, these two steels can be almost twins to one another. The SS blades need a little more work in sharpening, with burr cleanup. But once past that, finished edges and polish can make them look and cut almost identically. I see it in the Case 6375 stockman knives that I've re-bevelled and sharpened essentially identically. If not actually looking at the 'SS' or 'CV' on the blade tangs, it's difficult to distinguish one from another. That's a pretty good balance, and seems to show what Case might've been aiming for, in terms of how sharp they can be and how relatively easily it can be made so.


David
 
I greatly prefer CV because I like the way carbon steel ages with use, stainless doesn't get that nice patina and just doesn't have as much character, ss is fine from a practical standpoint, and I do carry and use SAK's often, but on my traditional knives I like CV or 1095.
 
David, I have not experienced any burr after sharpening. Maybe I just did not notice. I sharpen everything on a diamond stone then finish on a leather strop with black then green polish
 
I actually bought a medium stockman in red bone at the local feed store this week that is cv.
 
David, I have not experienced any burr after sharpening. Maybe I just did not notice. I sharpen everything on a diamond stone then finish on a leather strop with black then green polish

Sharpening & stropping methods (& compounds) can make a pretty big difference in what's left on the edge. Keeping pressure appropriately light also helps; in fact, I believe pressure is the biggest factor. If you really want to see the burrs/wires rear their ugly heads on Tru-Sharp, even just slightly heavy pressure on ceramic hones will do it. A diamond hone can be aggressive enough to both create and then scrub off a burr in just a pass or two on softer steels like this, so I'm not too surprised if you're not seeing as much of a burr.

Oftentimes with Case's Tru-Sharp blades, the biggest & ugliest burrs can offen be seen on brand new knives, straight out of the box. Often even on the shoulders of the edge bevels.


David
 
Nothing wrong at all with Case SS knives. Here are a couple of examples. Their stainless steel is durable and easily sharpened.

Nine Dot Lightning Bolt SS (1981 Manufacture) Case XX A62009 1/2 SS Barlow with Appaloosa Bone handles.

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Case's 3 7/8" pattern # 47 Stockman (Case SS 3347 Large Stockman).

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I'm not a steel snob but case trusharp is 420HC. So are Bucks; but they have the Paul Bos heat treat. Most of my Case knives are SS but I do have some Ss ones. Neither see hard use.
 
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