I have successfully used both PVC tubing with a slit down the side and stove pipe. The most critical part however is the mixing of the refractory, the word "pour" concerns me since water amounts added will literally mean the difference between your shell lasting months or years. The proper mix for many refractories will look rather dry and will not "pour" in any liquid sense of the word but instead will crumble in like a graham cracker or Dutch apple pie crust and proper vibration will then liquefy it and flow it into position. What I did was made a stiff spring attachment to replace the blade in my saber saw crumbled the appropriately mixed refractory between the inner and outer molds and then put the saber saw against the outside metallic shell and flowed it all into position (it will go from moist gravel to a true liquid when vibrated). Shells that I have done with too much initial moisture cracked and began to flake away on the first two uses, while drier vibrated shells have lasted me for ten years.
The best curing I have accomplished was by baking the shell at 450F for many hours while I built a bon fire large enough to make a huge bed of coals. I then transferred the baked shell into it and piled coals on top and cooked until it was glowing gently throughout. This shell had the least cracking of any I ever did.
Also the best shells I have done were normal refractory on the top and sides but high alumina on the floor (high alumina will run around 3 times more $$). The high alumina is much denser however and necessitates the use of temporary dividers that are removed at the end of vibration and only vibrated enough to bind it to the other mix. Too much vibration will cause the high alumina to spread out in a circular fashion into the surrounding material and go for the bottom of your mold.