Cerakote Services

shotgunner

shotgunner

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Only offering coats on single blades for a limited time. Take advantage now. This offer likely to expire by Halloween.

I am quite pleased to announce that I am a certified Cerakote Applicator. I have been applying Cerakote to various metal objects for a couple months now.

Cerakote hails as the finest knife and gun coating on the market today. Used by the big boys like Benchmade, Gerber and Leatherman. They have in house or large volume coaters doing their work. Now the blade hobby has a small volume shop to utilize. ME!

Cerakote is super tough. Cerakote absorbs impact, denies abrasion and is chemically inert. A piece coated entirely in Cerakote may be submerged in full strength pool acid for an indefinite period of time without damage to the object or it's coating. Hit it with a hammer and the coating flows with the metal. Brush it against a rough surface and the knife is protected. Of course, your knife won't be put thru that kind of abuse. For the use and abuse it does get exposed to; Cerakote is ready.

I refer you to the NIC Industries website for more details about this miraculous coating.

In the below image are some examples of sample colors and patterns available. Cerakote comes in ~40 colors. I can provide two or even three (or more) toned coats. Custom stencils available. If you want a black knife with pink skulls, I'll do it!

Black and Desert Digital are the hottest thing now.

IMG_0018.jpg


Pricing starts at $15 for small runs single color. Will be more for more colors, will be less for volume.

Please feel free to contact me for details and specifics regarding your project.

Colors I have in stock are:


  • H220 Ridgeway Blue
  • H243 Safety Orange
  • H214 Smith's Grey
  • H227 Tactical Grey
  • H146 Graphite Black (Kershaw & Gerber use this)
  • H190 Armor Black
  • H185 Blue Titanium (I just sprayed this for the first time it is beautiful!)
  • H151 Satin Aluminum
  • H245 Socom Blue
  • H234 Sniper Grey
  • H199 Desert Sand
  • H235 Coyote Tan
  • H248 Forest Green
  • H236 OD Green
  • H226 Patriot Brown
  • H212 Federal Brown
  • H200 Highland Green
  • H219 Gun Metal Grey
  • H152 Stainless Steel
  • H141 Prison Pink
  • H253 MIdnight Purple
  • H140 New Bright White
 
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Very interesting. I may have to try a few blades. I have a few questions.
1. What grit do they need to be finished to before treatment.
2. How many blades do I need to send to get a price break?
3. To get the reduced price do they all have to be the same color or can they be mixed?
Thanks.
 
darrin sanders said:
Very interesting. I may have to try a few blades. I have a few questions.
1. What grit do they need to be finished to before treatment.
2. How many blades do I need to send to get a price break?
3. To get the reduced price do they all have to be the same color or can they be mixed?
Thanks.
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Thanks Guys. Let me address your questions as best I can.

Fish: Pistols? I am awaiting my FFL so not yet. Hoping to have it before Thanksgiving. Then I will REALLY have something to be thankful for!

Darrin:

#1 - I am the finisher. You fit & heat treat the blades, then send them to me. I'll blast and coat.

#2 - Let's talk about your specific needs privately. Doesn't make sense to talk prices without the details. My number is listed or PM me your number and I'll call you.

#3) QTY pricing is for a run of all the same color(s). One knife each of ten individual colors is ten times the work of one knife one color. Ten setups and cleanups. If I do a number of all the same color then I only have the one setup-->cleanup for the entire batch so my time is better utilized coating and not cleaning my equipment. Nez pa?

Lastly, please let's discuss specifics privately.
 
Scott, I don't understand your answer about what grit the blades need to be finished to before we send them to you. It almost sounds like you're saying to send them to you right out of the quench, with scale and all, and you'll finish them up yourself.
- Thanks
 
I am new to the knifemaking world. I'll explain my part and you guys can decide what to send me.

The proper application of Cerakote calls for a sandblast with 120 grit garnet or alumina media. I use garnet. I will be blasting your knives to allow for a fresh clean substrate that the Cerakote will adhere too. This is critical to forming the tenacious bond Cerakote is well known for. Once properly applied the only way to remove Cerakote is with another sandblast.

I expected to get scaley quenched knives, blast and coat them. If I am incorrect in this please advise.

My goal is to finish the knife so when you get it back you will sharpen and assemble.

I hope this helps.
 
??? how could anyone be confused about what level to finish these before sending them in????
 
shotgunner said:
I am new to the knifemaking world. I'll explain my part and you guys can decide what to send me.

The proper application of Cerakote calls for a sandblast with 120 grit garnet or alumina media. I use garnet. I will be blasting your knives to allow for a fresh clean substrate that the Cerakote will adhere too. This is critical to forming the tenacious bond Cerakote is well known for. Once properly applied the only way to remove Cerakote is with another sandblast.

I expected to get scaley quenched knives, blast and coat them. If I am incorrect in this please advise.

My goal is to finish the knife so when you get it back you will sharpen and assemble.

I hope this helps.
Click to expand...

Thank you, Scott. I'll send a blade out to you in a few weeks to try it out.
- Mitch
 
What is your approximate turnaround time for, say, a single blade, and for a batch of 10? I am not very familiar with these types of coatings but I recall reading somewhere about at least one of them having a very long cure time.

On another topic, many if not most knife maker's methodology requires at least some stock removal after heat treating. If you are unspecific about what level of finish is required prior to your processing, you may well end up with guys sending you blades with 36 or 40 grit grinding marks all over them, which moderate grit blasting will not remove. This may or may not be an issue to you but I have found that even 120 grit grinding marks will remain under a grit-blasted finish.
Again, this may be a total non-issue for your purposes since the coating will fill the surface irregularities. I personally prefer a higher level of finish (400 grit minimum) before any grit/bead blasting but I am not using built-up coatings and this may make all the difference.
 
glarmore said:
Is this a baked on finish? If so, what is the time and temperature profile?

Thanks,

Glen
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Hello Glen;

Thanks for the post. Yes, the product is a heat cure. I will bake at 250F for one hour. My oven is up to temp in 3 minutes, cool down is air cool and something the thickness of a knife is safe to handle in ten minutes after removal from the oven.

I am no expert, but I do not believe this will effect any heat treat at all.
 
Justin King said:
What is your approximate turnaround time for, say, a single blade, and for a batch of 10? I am not very familiar with these types of coatings but I recall reading somewhere about at least one of them having a very long cure time.
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I am a new business with few clients (yet!) so my current turnaround is one day for small jobs.

If your blade came in the mail tomorrow, I'd do it Tuesday and mail it the same day. The longest time frame is the USPS!

10 knives? Same

50-100 knives? Give me another day.

1000 knives? Give me 5 business days.

On another topic, many if not most knife maker's methodology requires at least some stock removal after heat treating. If you are unspecific about what level of finish is required prior to your processing, you may well end up with guys sending you blades with 36 or 40 grit grinding marks all over them, which moderate grit blasting will not remove. This may or may not be an issue to you but I have found that even 120 grit grinding marks will remain under a grit-blasted finish.
Again, this may be a total non-issue for your purposes since the coating will fill the surface irregularities. I personally prefer a higher level of finish (400 grit minimum) before any grit/bead blasting but I am not using built-up coatings and this may make all the difference.
Click to expand...

This is the reason for the free coatings. To work out the kinks. See my other thread for details.

I will be grit-blasting with 120 grit garnet. If you want a clean blade then have it ready for that.

Different materials blast differently. Plastic is actually more difficult to blast than hardened tool steel. If flexes under the impact. Yes, I do synthetics as well. The Cerakote sticks VERY well.

Send me a sample blade as a test.
 
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Now is the time to take advantage of my single blade offer. This offer set to expire (or change in nature) on Halloween.
 
After October 31, minimum order goes to 6 knives. If you want a single blade coated now is the time!

Pricing starts at $15 per blade, postage not included.
 
Scott,
I"m just wondering if you can do the coating around a design on the blade? What I"m asking is if I engraved a flower on a blade can you leave the flower without coating it? Thanks R.Carpenter
 
R.Carpenter said:
Scott,
I"m just wondering if you can do the coating around a design on the blade? What I"m asking is if I engraved a flower on a blade can you leave the flower without coating it? Thanks R.Carpenter
Click to expand...

Yeah! Sorta. ;)

I would need a stencil to match your engraving. Thusly, if you have a cute little daisy sticker, then engrave that into the blade, with whatever detail you desire, then apply the sticker over your engraving, it will remain untouched.

BUT! if you engraved deep enough and let me coat over it you will still have the sculpted effect, simply in the color of the Cerakote you chose.

I am gonna order some skull and crossbones stickers and do that Black knife with pink skull/crossbones on it. Maybe polarforge will make me the blade! :D
 
Would you be able to cerakote a Benchmade 51 bali blade and, if so, would it effect the function of the pivots?
 
Yams said:
Would you be able to cerakote a Benchmade 51 bali blade and, if so, would it effect the function of the pivots?
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In answer of your first question, I can coat any metal object.

#2) I have never even seen a Balisong knife and cannot make comment on this. Is there a lubricating washing in there to help with the motion of the blade? Or is it metal to metal.

Some of the colors of Cerakote are very matte finish and have a rough texture. Some have a lubricity to them.

Where are you located? I think Bali's were illegal in California.
 
shotgunner said:
In answer of your first question, I can coat any metal object.

#2) I have never even seen a Balisong knife and cannot make comment on this. Is there a lubricating washing in there to help with the motion of the blade? Or is it metal to metal.

Some of the colors of Cerakote are very matte finish and have a rough texture. Some have a lubricity to them.

Where are you located? I think Bali's were illegal in California.
Click to expand...

I am located in Indiana where balisongs are legal. Here is a pic from brokenbrains that shows how the pivots go together

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v411/illustr8r/Balisongs/BM 51 Deanodizing/51 smaller/DSCN4374.jpg

there is a sleeve that goes through each blade hole to attach each to a handle. Sandwiched between the handle and the blade on each side of each handle is a bushing to help it move freely. The most important thing on a bali (other than it not flying apart and injuring people) is that the pivots move freely. If this process would compromise that at all then it wouldn't be a good idea. If it could be done without doing that then it's a great idea.

Also, while balisongs are illegal in many states, I wouldn't be sending you the balisong. I'd just send you a blade with no other attachments.
 
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I can't say what Cerakote would do to that. The coat is 0.001" thin. If applied only to the blade the I cannot see how the motion of the blade would be compromised.

I have no crystal ball on this one, sorry. The only way to know for sure is try it.
 
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