Cg ash-1 sharp

richstag

richstag

Joined
Feb 22, 2007
Messages
9,008
Hey,

So, how would you all like to talk some sense into me again??? Getting tired of it yet?

Anyhow, I got this CG ASH-1 recently and the cutting edge was ground at more of an angle on one side than the other. I decided to even it out on my x-coarse diamond bench stone. Well, for the first time in my life I had serious success with free hand.

This thing is even now, looks incredible, shaves hair, cuts paper CLEAN and I would not want to run it along my skin with ANY pressure.

So, I ask you all, why would I go any further than x-coarse at this point?

I feel like I will just mess the thing up? This thing is nutty right now.

Thanks for the input!

Kevin
 
I find a course edge cuts very well on a lot of materials. It does exceptionally well on Feral hogs due to its ability to 'saw' through the tough hide and gritty hair. The trade-off is that it will tend to lose its edge a bit faster than a razor-type edge, as the micro-teeth on the edge wear down. Of course, Infi holds its edge much better than other steels...

So... all that being said... if you are happy with it... stick with it. :thumbup:
 
I typically use sandpaper, and switch grits to finer, then leather strop with buffing compound. I really like a smooth polished edge.

If it is sharp enough for you, use it till it is not, then re sharpen.
 
Some like a polished edge. I do myself. A rough edge is good fpr slicing while a polished edge is the push cutting champ, especially if it is convexed.
 
kdstrick said:
I find a course edge cuts very well on a lot of materials. It does exceptionally well on Feral hogs due to its ability to 'saw' through the tough hide and gritty hair. The trade-off is that it will tend to lose its edge a bit faster than a razor-type edge, as the micro-teeth on the edge wear down. Of course, Infi holds its edge much better than other steels...

So... all that being said... if you are happy with it... stick with it. :thumbup:
Click to expand...

Thanks!

I was kind of thinking this. It really slices well. The SAW.
 
Bigfattyt said:
I typically use sandpaper, and switch grits to finer, then leather strop with buffing compound. I really like a smooth polished edge.

If it is sharp enough for you, use it till it is not, then re sharpen.
Click to expand...

thanks!

I have done that also and it gets knives very sharp, although the end result seems to be less utilitarian to me.

I really got into perfectly polished RAZOR sharp edges for a while but this may have a place in my collection as well.

I went through the edgepro and sandpaper and....

I basically threw the edgepro into a wall a while back and decided I NEEDED to learn to do this on a stone. I just always remember clearing a lot of woods in virginia with my machete and all I had was a piece of slate and chainsaw oil....and it worked. I want to be able to do that confidently with a nice knife.


thanks again
 
mfaster7 said:
Some like a polished edge. I do myself. A rough edge is good fpr slicing while a polished edge is the push cutting champ, especially if it is convexed.
Click to expand...

I like both:thumbup::thumbup:

I was thinking this also. Then I got to thinking how often do I have to push cut thin fragile paper outside of my house and just for fun?

I guess my answer has been stated already. This is good for slicing but will loose the edge faster.

Here is another question to all of you: Even though it will loose the edge faster do you think in real world use the slicing ability might just outway the longevity of the polished edge?

And please remember, all of my knives aside from this are polished, even the machete, axe, and the lawn mower blades....

thanks again!
 
I've never needed anything better than a mill bastard filed edge in the woods on machetes or bush axes but it never hurts to have a little more.
 
Polished convex edges do push cut great, but I also like them on choppers. They really seem to chop well. Something about material separation.
 
idahoskunk said:
you just ruined a very expensive asymmetrical edge! :eek:
Click to expand...

really???? I like it much better this way. Your not saying it was meant to be that way??? I have read you guys saying that about older knives but is that really the case for this one?

either way It is MUCH better for me this way:eek:
 
richstag said:
really???? I like it much better this way. Your not saying it was meant to be that way??? I have read you guys saying that about older knives but is that really the case for this one?

either way It is MUCH better for me this way:eek:
Click to expand...
Skunk is hamming you. The CGASH was never offered with an asymmetric edge. AFAIK asymmetric edges went away with the Ergo line...
 
You could maybe try a chef's steel on your knife. That'll give you micro serrations along the edge which will boost the performance when cutting flesh or rope. Plus it's a lot easier to resharpen with that and you could always carry one for touching up your edge.

I know some people carry a fine file or strop for such field sharpening I suppose it's down to personal preference.
 
RoyalM said:
You could maybe try a chef's steel on your knife. That'll give you micro serrations along the edge which will boost the performance when cutting flesh or rope. Plus it's a lot easier to resharpen with that and you could always carry one for touching up your edge.

I know some people carry a fine file or strop for such field sharpening I suppose it's down to personal preference.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the advice. Chuck of Chuddybearleather.com is making the sheath for it. I was thinking last night about asking him to add a pouch for a stone or something.

Any suggestions?
 
I just sharpened by Scrofa using sandpaper / leather strop with green compound - while I have lots to learn still I like the results so far.
 
Paulinski said:
I just sharpened by Scrofa using sandpaper / leather strop with green compound - while I have lots to learn still I like the results so far.
Click to expand...

Yeah that should work good huh. I have figured out the sandpaper, edgepro, belt sander and all of that good stuff.

I can get a knife hair popping sharp. Its this whole idea of using this x-coarse bench stone and getting shuch a sharp edge. It really slides right through paper too. I don't really get it. The best way that I could describe the edge is to compare it to a really sharp Emerson straight out of the box if that makes any sense.

I wonder what the actual steel is better suited for? A high polished edge or a toothy but somewhat refined edge?
 
Well you could try something like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/VINTAGE-CASE-XX-KNIFE-SHARPENING-STEEL-HONE-CHEFS-KITCH_W0QQitemZ270346327964QQihZ017QQcategoryZ43322QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/Lot-of-3-Knife-Sharpeners-Ceramic-Sharpening-Stick-Rods_W0QQitemZ310123517574QQihZ021QQcategoryZ43220QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
You could get a longer 'loop' such as you get for a firesteel and have the chef's steel sitting side-saddle with your ASH. Might prove bulky though, despite looking badass (think Daniel Day Lewis in Gangs of New York).

There are smaller ones such as this though for retouching, takes a little longer but then it's less to carry:
http://cgi.ebay.com/LEATHERMAN-DIAMOND-COATED-KNIFE-SHARPENING-SYSTEM-ROD_W0QQitemZ350164839675QQihZ022QQcategoryZ42577QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/Puma-Knife-Sharpening-Pen_W0QQitemZ370163235712QQihZ024QQcategoryZ43220QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Lastly you could try one or more of these in a pocket on the sheath, maybe get a piece of leather sewn flat against the back or front of the sheath to form a very slim 'compass' pocket.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Set-of-3-Diamond-Sharpening-Stones-For-Knife-Honing_W0QQitemZ170305117330QQihZ007QQcategoryZ43220QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I do like the strop loaded with compound method but it can be a pain in wet conditions. I was thinking of maybe carrying a rolled up barbers strop with a container (like an old film container, remember those?) of compound so I could touch up my blades. When I have a rollmat with me, I like to carry some grit paper rolled up in it, then use that as my giant mousepad at night.

For me I would carry a small, quick fix sharpener for during the day and unless you are seriously beating the blade that should do you until you get back to camp where you can use the big strop or the big chef steel.

Hope this helps.
 
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