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Va damage, Mr porn star,
Come here and troll again and I will hand you your arss in knapsack.
Come here and troll again and I will hand you your arss in knapsack.
-
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CG NMFBM use and wear - expectations too high?
- Thread starter zachariusdominus
- Start date
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- Oct 9, 2009
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- 908
Second time I've heard this guy whining about Busses. You'd think he'd just stop visiting the subforum... that would probably make too much sense
- Joined
- Jun 29, 2005
- Messages
- 16,379
INFI will almost always roll before it chips. The masonary is what caused the chip, and could in any steel.
I don't throw knives myself. I throw and old hatchet now and then, but it didn't cost much. If you must throw an expensive knife make sure nothing hard like masonary is around.
I will never understand why people troll, and you've done it here in the past. You need to just move on and stay out of this room since you don't like the knives. Trolling can be a major infraction, as it should be, and you'll be gone if you keep it up. You need to take the advice knife hunter gave you. You're lucky he didn't ding you for the second post.
Light him up T
Last edited:
Bigfattyt
Gold Member
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- Jun 23, 2007
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- 19,255
Looking at that edge, and finish, sounds like it held up stellar.
Rocks, masonry, bricks, stone, concrete, glass, asphalt, porcelain etc are all harder than steel (or have harder components). They will roll, dent, and damage an edge.
Cutting the cans means you are cutting something much harder than the finish (I have also chopped cans with knives, hawks, and Infi).
I saw some edge deformation in your pics, but nothing you could not fix in a jiffy with a smooth steel, and a few quick licks on a stone.
As for throwing, if you get a bounce, or a bad hit, it will happen. I have dedicated throwing knives and hawks, and axes, and shovels etc.
I have thrown my infi, but I don't do it much. None of mine have bent, but honestly, I have not done it a ton with Infi.
I have broken a few knives not designed for throwing, though!
Rocks, masonry, bricks, stone, concrete, glass, asphalt, porcelain etc are all harder than steel (or have harder components). They will roll, dent, and damage an edge.
Cutting the cans means you are cutting something much harder than the finish (I have also chopped cans with knives, hawks, and Infi).
I saw some edge deformation in your pics, but nothing you could not fix in a jiffy with a smooth steel, and a few quick licks on a stone.
As for throwing, if you get a bounce, or a bad hit, it will happen. I have dedicated throwing knives and hawks, and axes, and shovels etc.
I have thrown my infi, but I don't do it much. None of mine have bent, but honestly, I have not done it a ton with Infi.
I have broken a few knives not designed for throwing, though!
hi, op .
i do not have NMFBM, but i know it is a big knife , you threw it , it must be take lots of forces when impacting on some hard object , like stone and steel etc. and i examined your pics , the wounds not a big deal i thinks , just some nice rolls , very cool.
i have cold steel throwing knives , they are easliy get wounds on tip and edge when it impact on hard targets , and the wounds larger than what you got .
and i do not think of what you did is abusing , just fun , cool.
i do not have NMFBM, but i know it is a big knife , you threw it , it must be take lots of forces when impacting on some hard object , like stone and steel etc. and i examined your pics , the wounds not a big deal i thinks , just some nice rolls , very cool.
i have cold steel throwing knives , they are easliy get wounds on tip and edge when it impact on hard targets , and the wounds larger than what you got .
and i do not think of what you did is abusing , just fun , cool.
LMT66
Gold Member
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- Jun 18, 2008
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- 11,254
I always carry a EZE-LAP DIAMOND M to touch up little dings and rolls.
Your pictures aren't bad, but not great either, but the wear looks similar to what I've done in the past. My eye doesn't see chipping, it sees dents. You can fix that up real quick with little work.
INFI is tough and tends to roll, especially on the big choppers. Like KH said, it is malleable and that is where INFI shines.
On a knife that big, throwing it will inevitably cause a slab shift or loose tubes. Shift them back square and they may be fine. If not, you can sometimes tighten them back up by using screws with the right flare and a vise to tighten the tubes, It works.
By the way, AWESOME BEATING on the chopper!
Your pictures aren't bad, but not great either, but the wear looks similar to what I've done in the past. My eye doesn't see chipping, it sees dents. You can fix that up real quick with little work.
INFI is tough and tends to roll, especially on the big choppers. Like KH said, it is malleable and that is where INFI shines.
On a knife that big, throwing it will inevitably cause a slab shift or loose tubes. Shift them back square and they may be fine. If not, you can sometimes tighten them back up by using screws with the right flare and a vise to tighten the tubes, It works.
By the way, AWESOME BEATING on the chopper!
zachariusdominus
Gold Member
- Joined
- Apr 21, 2010
- Messages
- 95
Thanks for the info, folks. I'll get me a steel and work her out.
- Joined
- Sep 30, 2010
- Messages
- 146
Addressing the OP:
I'm afraid I don't see any chips in your images. What I do see are a few instances of minor plastic deformation. This is not unexpected. Actually Busses can be more subject to this sort of damage than some other less durable knives. Why? I actually posted a video on this, its what I call my 9/10ths broken hypothesis which states you will see maximum performance performing a task when your knife is 9/10ths broken.
Let me explain particularly as it pertains to Busse vs. other knives. If you were to take a blade in M390 or ZDP189 @65rc and impacted it into something you would see basically zero damage UNTIL fracture. That window of deformation is extremely small. In this way you will see far less edge damage in knives like this up until the point where the damage becomes catastrophic. Busse on the other hand will take a broad range of deformation when pushed past the limit, but very rarely ever takes catastrophic damage. Busses tend to sit on the insane fringe edge of preformance, and as such will only see "maximum" performance when you're going whole hog doing something which would be stupid with any other knife. (its critical to note this isn't always strictly true, as there have been a number of Busses which are surprisingly thin ground and are NOT flat out stupid do anything tough, they're actually quite good slicers the MUK being one of them. They are still quite tough though, as I distinctly recall cutting ice holes with it and not doing ANY damage or dulling.) These things include, but are not limited to, throwing, striking rocks, cutting metal, and general cockassery. That doesn't make them bad knives, quite the opposite in fact I can't think of another brand which tolerates throwing like a Busse, but you have to be aware of the fact that when large force meets immovable object both will become slightly less happy as a result. I actually find it somewhat amusing that you posted this as a "why did this happen" instead of a "holy crap I just threw my massive knife into a rock and it came out with some minor damage that'll sharpen out in seconds."
As for the handle shift, if this happens just get a piece of wood or soft mallet and tap it back to where you want it.
Of course if you're still dissapointed, another thing about Busse is I'm sure there are more than a few people here who'd happily take that blade off your hands and you can go buy something else which you feel will suit your needs better.
I'm afraid I don't see any chips in your images. What I do see are a few instances of minor plastic deformation. This is not unexpected. Actually Busses can be more subject to this sort of damage than some other less durable knives. Why? I actually posted a video on this, its what I call my 9/10ths broken hypothesis which states you will see maximum performance performing a task when your knife is 9/10ths broken.
Let me explain particularly as it pertains to Busse vs. other knives. If you were to take a blade in M390 or ZDP189 @65rc and impacted it into something you would see basically zero damage UNTIL fracture. That window of deformation is extremely small. In this way you will see far less edge damage in knives like this up until the point where the damage becomes catastrophic. Busse on the other hand will take a broad range of deformation when pushed past the limit, but very rarely ever takes catastrophic damage. Busses tend to sit on the insane fringe edge of preformance, and as such will only see "maximum" performance when you're going whole hog doing something which would be stupid with any other knife. (its critical to note this isn't always strictly true, as there have been a number of Busses which are surprisingly thin ground and are NOT flat out stupid do anything tough, they're actually quite good slicers the MUK being one of them. They are still quite tough though, as I distinctly recall cutting ice holes with it and not doing ANY damage or dulling.) These things include, but are not limited to, throwing, striking rocks, cutting metal, and general cockassery. That doesn't make them bad knives, quite the opposite in fact I can't think of another brand which tolerates throwing like a Busse, but you have to be aware of the fact that when large force meets immovable object both will become slightly less happy as a result. I actually find it somewhat amusing that you posted this as a "why did this happen" instead of a "holy crap I just threw my massive knife into a rock and it came out with some minor damage that'll sharpen out in seconds."
As for the handle shift, if this happens just get a piece of wood or soft mallet and tap it back to where you want it.
Of course if you're still dissapointed, another thing about Busse is I'm sure there are more than a few people here who'd happily take that blade off your hands and you can go buy something else which you feel will suit your needs better.