CGFBM - Shaving sharp?

[xanax]

I agree not everyone will not see the need for a thinned out BM until they use one. Then it becomes apparent that a large scary sharp knife is almost as important as a small scary sharp knife:thumbup:

 

[BootmasterGeneral]

I agree not everyone will not see the need for a thinned out BM until they use one. Then it becomes apparent that a large scary sharp knife is almost as important as a small scary sharp knife:thumbup:

I dont know. My non thinned out blade worked just fine for me
I did get it shaving sharp in a matter of minutes with the strop though.

*note* this tree had severe core rot and was targeted for termination. It was NOT a random tree I decided to kill for the sake of my knife's ego.

 

[Str8Edg]

I know this might come off the wrong way, but why do you need a "shaving sharp" edge? Are you parring tomatoes with it? Shaving sharp means thin, which means rolls easily. It also means that you've anihalated the totally sophisticated convex edge that the maker put on it.

I keep seeing these threads where people talk about the mods they do to there edges. Did anyone ever stop and wonder if the knifemaker of the greatest knife ever made might be providing the recipient with the appropriate edge.

Its the task that should dictate the edge. A chopping blade shouldn't have a "shaving sharp" edge on it. It'll roll right over on itself. These convex edges by design aren't "shaving sharp". If you know better than the maker about what's best suited for this mammoth blade, then "take it down" to a 15 degree angle, make it shaving sharp V-grind, and get to parring those tomatoes.

 

[Str8Edg]

This URL gives the best explanation of convex vs. V-grind edges I know of. It also examines all the different edge choices paired with their appropriate uses. The point is that there is no one way that an edge should be. They all have a purpose. Check it out:

http://www.kosterknives.com/convexedge.htm

 

[Andros]

Since I'm so lazy, I would like Jerry to offer shaving sharpness for a small extra fee, maybe $5 - $10. I'd be willing to pay that rather than risk ruining my Infi edge by trying to get it scary sharp myself. I have received other large knives that were flawless in their sharpness but mabe I'm just having some bad luck with new Infi blades. Would anyone else be willing to pay an extra fee for this service? Once I have a sharpened knife I don't seem to have much trouble bring it back with a strop.

To the best of my knowledge BUSSE KNIVES offers free sharpening on their knives. All you have to do is pay for shipping back and forth from the factory.

 

[EverTheCynic]

It also means that you've anihalated the totally sophisticated convex edge that the maker put on it.

You don't need to get rid of the convex edge in order to get it shaving sharp. Sandpaper is good for improving the convex edge. My opinion is that you should get an edge as thin as the steel allows without making it weaker than what you need. I think INFI is tough enough that the edge can be thinner than what comes from the factory. I'm not an expert or anything, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express once.

 

[Andros]

nice!

I don't have a strop... can I do this just with Sandpaper?? Mind you, mine may be razorsharp, won't know till its out of the box...

Any pointers?? I've read some threads suggesting that doing it by hand is more accurate if you've not used any machinery before... I'd be doing it completely by hand as well

Thanks for your reply xanax

The strop should be used for the last touch up. The utilization of various grits of water proof sandpaper will help you to re-profile / polish the edge.

 

[resinguy]

I think INFI is tough enough that the edge can be thinner than what comes from the factory.

Exactly. That's the whole point of using better steel, one can thin the profile to improve cutting and chopping, but not have the edge fail.

 

[xanax]

I know this might come off the wrong way, but why do you need a "shaving sharp" edge? Are you parring tomatoes with it? Shaving sharp means thin, which means rolls easily. It also means that you've anihalated the totally sophisticated convex edge that the maker put on it.

I keep seeing these threads where people talk about the mods they do to there edges. Did anyone ever stop and wonder if the knifemaker of the greatest knife ever made might be providing the recipient with the appropriate edge.

Its the task that should dictate the edge. A chopping blade shouldn't have a "shaving sharp" edge on it. It'll roll right over on itself. These convex edges by design aren't "shaving sharp". If you know better than the maker about what's best suited for this mammoth blade, then "take it down" to a 15 degree angle, make it shaving sharp V-grind, and get to parring those tomatoes.

I keep a convex grind on my thinned out knives. They cut much better and as others have stated INFI can handle it. Learn more about your edges and you will catch on:thumbup:

 

[xanax]

And yes, I can put an edge on a Busse that will out perform the factory edge in almost every aspect. The only trade off is I will loose a little durability but it won't be noticed at all.

 

[Justabuyer]

I know this might come off the wrong way, but why do you need a "shaving sharp" edge? Are you parring tomatoes with it? Shaving sharp means thin, which means rolls easily. It also means that you've anihalated the totally sophisticated convex edge that the maker put on it.

I keep seeing these threads where people talk about the mods they do to there edges. Did anyone ever stop and wonder if the knifemaker of the greatest knife ever made might be providing the recipient with the appropriate edge.

Its the task that should dictate the edge. A chopping blade shouldn't have a "shaving sharp" edge on it. It'll roll right over on itself. These convex edges by design aren't "shaving sharp". If you know better than the maker about what's best suited for this mammoth blade, then "take it down" to a 15 degree angle, make it shaving sharp V-grind, and get to parring those tomatoes.

FOB.... I have seen you post this thought several times. Thanks it never fails to give me a chuckle. The part about..."totally sophisticated convex edge", is a leg slapper!

There is ample evidence that acute bevels not only OUT cut blunt ones but stay sharp longer due to dramatically lowered impact forces.

There is nothing amazing about Busse edge bevels for GOD sake. What is amazing about busse is the steel used. It is a compliment that so many hard core Busse fans push the envelope on blade performance with out fear of blade failure!

 

[xanax]

FOB.... I have seen you post this thought several times. Thanks it never fails to give me a chuckle. The part about..."totally sophisticated convex edge", is a leg slapper!

There is ample evidence that acute bevels not only OUT cut blunt ones but stay sharp longer due to dramatically lowered impact forces.

There is nothing amazing about Busse edge bevels for GOD sake. What is amazing about busse is the steel used. It is a compliment that so many hard core Busse fans push the envelope on blade performance with out fear of blade failure!

My thoughts exactly:thumbup:

 

[Alex p. Schorsc]

Sandpaper sharpening is a relatively new technique. You can do it the old way with a benchstone. reprofiling can be done with a black DMT diamond benchstone to get it where you want it. Afterwards a few strokes on a fine diamond hone (like DMT red) and then a few more strokes on a fine Arkansas stone like Translucent Arkie and you will have a very sharp knife.

 

[cypselus]

I sent my FBM and HOGFSH in to Busse for edge thinning this morning, after talking to the famous Garth last Friday. Perhaps in a week or two, I'll have them back and be able to compare. The FBM came out of the box dull dull dull, and the edge was thick. The HOGFSH has been used, and is somewhat sharp, but has an edge bevel of 40°-50° inclusive. I don't see any reason for knives to have edges thicker than those found on axes. They're supposed to be more versatile, for one thing, and secondly, if an edge is that thick, it penetrates poorly while chopping, if it penetrates at all. If I wanted to crush my way through a tree or chicken thigh, I'd have used a rock.

 

[Str8Edg]

FOB.... I have seen you post this thought several times. Thanks it never fails to give me a chuckle. The part about..."totally sophisticated convex edge", is a leg slapper!

Happy I could provide a good laugh at my expense. I would expect that much for trying to stimulate thought, and pose an alternative thought.

Sorry I wasn't clearer about what I mean so my point wouldn't be missed. The fact is that a convex edge by design is quite sophiticated unto itself. I didn't mean to imply that Jerry's are more amazing than other convex edges. Just that a convex edge is a sophisticated feature of a knife. The fact that no over factory puts them on their knives is a testament to that. To take a convex edge down and thin it out DOES remove the convex shape by proxy of the action taken to the blade. Take it off, I don't care.

If Jerry thought V-grinds were all that, he'd put one on the blade at the factory, wouldn't you think? His is the only factory knife making convex edges. If V-grinds are so great, then why doesn't he implement them?

I was only bothering to post these thoughts at all to stimulate thought. I see a lot of attention given to the "shaving sharp" goal. I have gotten my Hell Razor that way, and the edge rolled very easily. It made me ask, what function do I want this knife to serve? Shaving sharp serves one purpose, not all of them. Now if you'll excuse me, I've got some garlic to shave with my FBM.

 

[pedropcola]

I don't have much experience with choppers so I will leave that area to the experts but on BA sized and smaller blades I absolutely want them sharp, sharp, sharp. Convex or V ground I want a small to medium blade to be "shaving sharp". I might very well use it to slice tomatoes and it needs to be sharp to do so. My comments only stated the facts as I have seen them. On my twentyish Busses, none of them came extremely sharp. Big deal? No, I sharpened the ones I was going to use and moved on. V grind or convex sharper is better for me (and my smaller user blades). Now carry on with the argument.

pete

 

[xanax]

Happy I could provide a good laugh at my expense. I would expect that much for trying to stimulate thought, and pose an alternative thought.

Sorry I wasn't clearer about what I mean so my point wouldn't be missed. The fact is that a convex edge by design is quite sophiticated unto itself. I didn't mean to imply that Jerry's are more amazing than other convex edges. Just that a convex edge is a sophisticated feature of a knife. The fact that no over factory puts them on their knives is a testament to that. To take a convex edge down and thin it out DOES remove the convex shape by proxy of the action taken to the blade. Take it off, I don't care.

If Jerry thought V-grinds were all that, he'd put one on the blade at the factory, wouldn't you think? His is the only factory knife making convex edges. If V-grinds are so great, then why doesn't he implement them?

I was only bothering to post these thoughts at all to stimulate thought. I see a lot of attention given to the "shaving sharp" goal. I have gotten my Hell Razor that way, and the edge rolled very easily. It made me ask, what function do I want this knife to serve? Shaving sharp serves one purpose, not all of them. Now if you'll excuse me, I've got some garlic to shave with my FBM.

Not to argue, but what the heck. My take is this. Correct me if I'm wrong, am am everyday. #1 You have never sharpened a knife using a belt sander/grinder. My reasoning for this is that it is actually easier to put a convex edge on a knife than a V grind. This applies more to me as I have a 1x30 sander and the platen is very small and likes to bounce a lot. so I take the easy way out and put a convex edge on it. I prefer V grinds to be completley honest with you. As they get sharper. And my SHBM was sick hair popping sharp. I had a V grind on it. It never rolled unless it hit a rock or something else extremely hard.#2 Was it possible your hell razor had a wire edge left on it? You can look at the edge very closely and not see it, but a small one could be there. without proper light (I always use the sun,) or magnification if it's possible. Your INFI blade should not have rolled on you unless cutting sheet metal, BTW what were you cutting? I write this with good intentions and not trying to bash you. I just have had much different experience using INFI during the last ten years or so.

 

[resinguy]

It happens not to be the case that Busse is the only factory convex edge. Bark River Knife and Tool puts a comvex edge on all their knives, and somewhere they have a tutorial on how to maintain it, but I can't find it right now.

I would be surprised if these were the only two companies to do it.

------------------

found it:

http://www.barkriverknives.com/convex.htm

 

[Justabuyer]

It happens not to be the case that Busse is the only factory convex edge. Bark River Knife and Tool puts a comvex edge on all their knives, and somewhere they have a tutorial on how to maintain it, but I can't find it right now.

I would be surprised if these were the only two companies to do it.

Many companies produce convex edges. Often not even on purpose!

No edge is a PERFECT v-grind. A Convex edge that is as acute as a given V-grind edge can be made just as sharp. If fact taken to the extreme even a 90 degree right angle edge can be made wicked sharp, it just will have horrible
cutting performance.

I have a benchmade Aeris folder that I thinned and convexed. Today at work a co-worker was killing themselves trying to cut linoleum flooring with a razor knife.

I handed him my knife and showed him how easy it was to push cut the flooring material. Ultra thin edge...still convex worked great. No edge damage... hell it wasn't even INFI.

A curve is a curve and sophisticated it ain't. Unusual it isn't. Ground breaking... no not that either. Brand new under the sun? Hardly.

Now when I thinned my edges... they remained curved and are no less convex than the busse edge... In fact they are better.

Does this mean Jerry or any edge grinding mad man at Busse could not given enough time produce a better edge than me? Of course not. But they make knives by the hundreds and have a few mins each to put the edge on one. I have hours even days to hand work my SINGLE knife. There would be something seriously wrong if I could not improve on what is already a good effort.

This is not a slam in Busse or his knives. I wrote 8 thousand dollars in payments to my Credit card in the last two months.... all spent on Busse knives new and used.

I think the Product line is so good it does not NEED HYPE. The TRUTH is good enough and puts Busse at the top of the heap.

 

[xanax]

Many companies produce convex edges. Often not even on purpose!

No edge is a PERFECT v-grind. A Convex edge that is as acute as a given V-grind edge can be made just as sharp. If fact taken to the extreme even a 90 degree right angle edge can be made wicked sharp, it just will have horrible
cutting performance.

I have a benchmade Aeris folder that I thinned and convexed. Today at work a co-worker was killing themselves trying to cut linoleum flooring with a razor knife.

I handed him my knife and showed him how easy it was to push cut the flooring material. Ultra thin edge...still convex worked great. No edge damage... hell it wasn't even INFI.

A curve is a curve and sophisticated it ain't. Unusual it isn't. Ground breaking... no not that either. Brand new under the sun? Hardly.

Now when I thinned my edges... they remained curved and are no less convex than the busse edge... In fact they are better.

Does this mean Jerry or any edge grinding mad man at Busse could not given enough time produce a better edge than me? Of course not. But they make knives by the hundreds and have a few mins each to put the edge on one. I have hours even days to hand work my SINGLE knife. There would be something seriously wrong if I could not improve on what is already a good effort.

This is not a slam in Busse or his knives. I wrote 8 thousand dollars in payments to my Credit card in the last two months.... all spent on Busse knives new and used.

I think the Product line is so good it does not NEED HYPE. The TRUTH is good enough and puts Busse at the top of the heap.

You sure can get a pretty good edge at 90%. Golf courses sharpen the reels that cut the greens fairways and roughs that way. Like the old push reel mowers with no motor and just a reel and bedknife. Let me tell you when I pull one of those off the grinder, and file off the burr it is pretty sharp. Mate it with a freshly ground bedknife. (the blade on the bottom of the reel that makes light contact with the reel) and you have a serious cutting machine. It will cut paper like sissors for several weeks even months if properly adjusted (daily) during the winter months, less during the growing season. It's nice to be able to spend 2,000.00 to 3,000.00 a month on knives, reels and blades a month and it's not your money.