Chainsaw bars?

  • Thread starter Thread starter ydduit
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ydduit

i was told that you can use a chainsaw bar for knife making. does anyone know what type of steel is commonly used for a chainsaw bar?
How about info on heat treating?

Thanks,
YDD
 
I know a guy here in Virginia named Stuart Simmonds who uses chainsaw bars for his fantasy sword blades. I do not know what type of steel is used in them but he makes one heck of a sword out of them.

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If a man can keep alert and imaginative, an error is a possibility, a chance at something new; to him, wandering and wondering are a part of the same process. He is most mistaken, most in error, whenever he quits exploring.

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I've seen reference to the use of bar steel also. As I have a huge saw bar off of some sort of portable sawmill type setup I hope that it is something good. someone told me it was 1095, but I doubt there is any standardization of these things?
 
This is an interesting idea, but I have no idea what type of steel is commonly used.Is the brand worn off the bar you have?
I would try and get in touch with someone from Stihl. They're the largest manufacturer of chainsaws and chainsaw accesories that I can think of.Partner ( if there still in bussiness) is another big company for chainsaws. I would try and get in touch with either one of them.
How big is the bar you have? My saw has a 20 inch bar and My uncle has one thats probably close to 3 feet. Thats the biggest I've seen other than the saws they use on redwoods and stuff.You can cut some big trees with a 3 ft bar though.

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Fix it right the first time, use Baling Wire !
 
I do chemical analysis on metal . If someone wants to send me a 1" square piece along with name brand I will post results. If I get several different manufactures,I will make up a chart and post. Stamp out mystery metal. Rex
 
I just came to this forum to post this exact question.
Can someone please jump in and share the knowledge about chainsaw guide bars?
I'm itching to know if these are a cutlery grade steel and what the Rc is as they come from the manufacturer.
Any and all answers are greatly appreciated!
Thanks in advance for your assistance in this Q!

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If it's stupid but works, then it isn't stupid!
 
Rex,
Would it be alright to cut samples with a cutting torch? Also do you know what most files are made of? I have heard W-1&W-2.
I have an abundance of old files and hoof rasp.
Thanks
Steve
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Rex,
Would it be alright to cut samples with a cutting torch? Also do you know what most files are made of? I have heard W-1&W-2.
I have an abundance of old files and hoof rasp.
Thanks
Steve
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stihl bars are 1095 says the saw shop they make a good knife the steel will harden to rc 65 at qwench on the saw they normaly are rc30
 
I have made several bowies and camp knives from chain bars. They heat treat nice and seem to hold an edge. I also practiced making damascus with them because they are free. Use a chop saw and blend in some L6 saw blades.If you come to Walla Walla I will help you load your truck. I have about 200 pounds of them. Bruce
 
Sure just make the sample piece a little bigger,about 3 inches long as the torch will burn out some carbon and manganese.
A 3 inch piece will let me grind away the heataffected zone and get a true analysis.
 
First knife I ever made was from a chainsaw bar, a little over 12 years ago. Never heattreated that one. It was hard. Held a good edge, and sharpened up nicely. Took 6 months to file the bevels on that thing (course I was using old warn out files, and it was a 16" bowie knife that was 2.5" wide). Now days I use ATS-34 and micarta, but I will always remember the love hate relationship with filing that chainsaw bar.

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Lynn Griffith-Knifemaker

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Most Excellent!
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I've been eyeballin' them for awhile now at the Home Depot and every time I see them I wonder if they would make a good, tough knife.
The bug has bitten! I'm gonna give it a whirl and see how it comes out!
Thanks a million fellas!
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If it's stupid but works, then it isn't stupid!
 
Misque,

Are you serious about buying new from HD? I hope not. There are other sources that are considerably cheaper.

Mike
 
i may be wrong but you may want to look close at the bar most of the new ones are 3 pieces spot welded together,i have a whole stack of old ones that are 1 piece
 
DCK8
you are right, alot of the new ones are 3 piece. however, i find that if you split the layers with a cold chisel, you can get several filet/boning blades out of each side. they make for a very flexable filet knife that will keep a good edge. after some exprimenting I found I get the best results by heating to a brite cherry red and quenching in 125 deg oil. Temper at about 450 for 1/2 hour. I have had good luck with this process. hope this helps. You can probibly use this thinner material for liners also.
(I might have to try a linerlock project next)
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[This message has been edited by ydduit (edited 02-02-2000).]
 
3 pieces?!
YIKES!!!
Glad I asked here first. I've run across some in an old hardware store, I'll go back and make sure they are 1 piece. You guys are right, HD is kinda expensive. I've seen cheaper elsewhere.
Thank You all VERY much!
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