Chainsaws - for when the BWM isn't enough

C

Cadman2008

Joined
Apr 20, 2010
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Do we have any experienced Stihl users here? I need a sort of un-biased opinion of the difference between pro-level chainsaws and mid-range use saws. Hacking through hardwood with my BWM takes too long, and I'm finding my occasional use Stihl is lacking power to cut dried hardwood of any reasonable size. My local shop is run by (I'm not joking either) 18-20 yr olds who just read the blurb on the brochures when it comes to chainsaw selection.

Any advice from hogs on it? I'd be looking at a 20 inch bar, with maybe a 25 inch option, for maybe a once - a - month use, but really want it to last for 10+ years.

Thanks guys/gals.
 
go with the MS 362
i havent used it specifically, but have used its predecessors ms 361 and 360
i run chainsaws daily all day
if you were willing to go with a smaller saw the ms 260 with a 16-18 inch bar is the absolute best sa ive ever run, a 16 inch bar can cut wood up to 32 inch
 
Get the saw for the job. My first stihl was a top level, 26in bar, heavy, blah blah blah (and it is nice.) But the one I use the most is light weight, 16in bar, safer cause fatigue doesn't set in, model 361C with a chain break. Google chainsaw injury pictures, then buy some safety pants and a helmet, with face guard. Watch the Stihl instructional videos and learn as much as you can about SAFETY.

Don't go under power. Nothing less than the 300 series for general purpose or you'll be sorry. Keep your chain sharp. Stihl lasts forever and customer service is solid unless it is a ACE hardware shop or something similar.

And of course don't forget to offer thanks to each live tree that is felled. Offering thanks slows down the process and is the final safety check before cutting.

Cheers!!!
 
i have to agree, a ms 390( old 039) is usually in the truck. the pro stuff does have a metal outter,which you can buy after market. any saw will support any blade within reason. an 066 will burn the hell outta a 16"bar. while an 015 can not handle a 16" bar. look around and go to some auction's. i got a good deal on my 390 from a local sale paper. with some mod's it can run a 28" bar. which is pretty nice for a non pro style. unless your cutting pulp wood all day or felling true timber, go with the "ms" saw's.


or you could just by a fbm.:)
 
I grew up around Stihls and I don't think I've seen one wear out due to use (maintenance neglection is a different story, but even then they're always simple fixes), so they do last easy 10+ years. Like others mentioned above, get the model for your purposes, maybe you don't need a large bar. But, if you're unsure (and things do pop up), I'd go for a 25" bar just to be safe unless you ever have to cut something large.

Then again, I have brough a chainsaw bar down on my leg when the chain was loose enough where the clutch didn't slow it down......so.....maybe I'm not the best to give advice :o

The coveralls caught the chain by the way.
 
Id have to disagree with a bigger saw, unless you are mainly going to be cutting 3 foot diameter logs a 260 will serve your needs, at 50 cc and 3.2 hp and 10 lbs, its a lightweight saw with more power pound for pound than any other
i run mine 8 to 10 hours a day 6 days a week, most of the time im off the ground and in the tree
just my 2 cents, for what its worth

mike
 
Get an 044. Be safe and practice. Wear ear, eye, chaps, protection. We run 044s, 033s and a 066. I have a Husq 181 at my house. The Stihls are my inlaws and the have a horse farm. Lots of trees.
 
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I was just out cutting trees last weekend and we had 2ea MS 290 STIHL FARM BOSS saws and a little 211 for the standing pecker poles and then bucking those up. The Farm Boss has done me right for years and the thing just keeps running. Great weight to power ratio!!! Although I still had my KZ out doing some limbing we didn't have a lot of time to play so break out the saws and get it done.
 
Make sure that you are running the "pro" chain on the saw. That will make a world of difference. You won't find it at ANY DIY retailer, and many pro shops won't sell it to you unless you are a professional logger because of liability issues. It's a much sharper, faster, more aggressive cut....., in other words, more dangerous. Good Luck!!!
 
I have the ms 311 and love it. Starts up really easily and all of their other saws do to. I have used all the main brands but Stihl is king!!!
 
Thank you guys, fairly consistent advice :) The MS250 I've been using the last 5 years still works beautifully, just not for the big jarrah / blackbutt logs that we cut up, so I will be keeping that one on hand for when I don't need the bigger saw. Bummer of it is, after googling chainsaw injuries (Which was an eye opener, thanks Haole - luckily I don't have to fell any trees, they are all deadfall. I lack the experience and skill for that particular job) I started looking round the US Stihl site for protective gear. Found out that you guys in the states / Canada can buy a MS362 for less than I have to pay for MS230. For some reason Stihl thinks Australians should pay double the civilized world's prices for chainsaws and gear. Grinds my gears...

Will probably go for the 362 with the 20" though. Not too big, but powerful. (I DO cut 3ft logs occasionally, so it should handle that okay)
 
I purchased a new Stihl 028 Wood Boss at least 25 yrs ago for use in my firewood business . For about 10 yrs the saw was used to cut at least 75 cords of seasoned Oak and Hickory per year . Only routine maintenance and the occasional bar or clutch replacement was required to keep the saw running . My practice was to use a bar 2" - 4" shorter than the maximum rated for the saw along with the previously mentioned Pro series chain . IMO you cannot beat a Stihl for value . Do be safe , eyes , ears , and chaps .
 
the one I use the most is the little arborist's saw. it's designed for one-handed operation, really light, and cuts through most of what I need, which is small(ish) limbs. Don't know the model #, but it's the cheaper of the two that Stihl has...
 
Sorry Stabber, Husqvarna put their name to a brand of chainsaws sold in the warehouse DIY stores here in Australia, called McCulloch. They feel cheap, and work cheap. Can't respect them after that, but I haven't used a bad Stihl saw yet. Honestly, I've never used a proper Huskie, but that yellow and black rubbish would be sitting in the back of my mind every time I open the shed if I had one.

(Here's hoping Stihl don't make Ryobi or something similar :) )
 
If people would open their mind every mfg has flaws in their equipment. Husky saws work. The 371-372 is one of the best saws still made. Pro saws and homeowner saws are quite different. Also chains make a huge difference,again pro vs homeowner. I look at it differently I have better things to do so I buy a saw that cuts faster and has less down time. There is and old saying good gear aint cheap cheap gear aint good.
 
A couple years ago I picked up a 261 with an 18" bar to replace my tired, old, general purpose 029 with an 18" bar. The thing is a screamin' beast! I wanted a new Stihl that was as light but could take some heat. The MS250 is weak imho, and the 029/290 wears me out for stuff above the waist. The 261 is only a pound and a half lighter but it screams! I love this saw for general purpose, "farm" use, but now I need something for bucking the big stuff that the arborists drop off. I am looking at a 460 with a 25 or 28" bar for those those 32" plus logs they've been dropping off. My poor old 029 is all pooped from these monsters.
Also, if you have experience and are comfortable with your saw habits, research your chain options.

At a minimum, get a 261 or the 362 over the 290.
 
Also, support your local mom & pop shop.

A little word for the wise, learn how to sharpen and maintain your chain!

When you get a new chain back after it's first sharpening, your cutters should not be half gone:eek: ...some places are really good at selling chain:rolleyes:
 
A sharp chain makes a big difference on any saw. Especially if it is a skip link instead of the safety chain that typically comes with most of the HO mid level saws. However, a sharp chain on a pro saw is a screamer. I have a 260 and 360 pro and tend to use the 260 on most everything except the larger logs and felling. The pro saws also have a compression release and adjustable oiler. The compression release is not that big of a deal but the adjustable oiler is especially when cutting dead (dry) hardwoods.

If you change the chain out to a speed chain be aware you will increase the kickback opportunities and take necessary safety steps accordingly. Do not change the chain if you don't have experience and skills to protect yourself. And never use a chainsaw without using all available safety gear and/or without having someone else around in case you cannot call 911

Sorry for the preaching. My son hates it too
 
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