Challenging hafting project finished

It didn't spring back as much as I was expecting. I hit it with the heat gun and just let it relax a little at the bend. I'm going to call it good enough. It felt like it lined up when I held it and took a few practice swings. I won't be able to finish it up until the weekend. As you can see from my first attempt I stink at mounting the head. I watched some videos. I could use some advice on how to do it right.

 
I'm really excited to see this finished.
I looked at you other hatchet thread and my advice would be to leave around a quarter inch of handle coming out of the top of the head. This not only makes for a more secure union (once both wood and steel wedges are driven in the bit of handle protruding out the top is larger than the eye) but it gives you a visual check while in use. As long as you can see that bit of handle you know the head isn't coming loose.
 
osage outlaw said:
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What weight is the head and the overall length of what you imagine ending up with?

If it doesn't work out as planned, could you cut it on either side of the knot and make it part of a wild swell on a slightly lighter head/tool?

That is a beautiful piece of wood and you obviously have skills working with it.

Please keep us updated as that is really cool and the progression shots makes for an even better story - thank you for sharing by the way. :thumbup:
 
I don't know what the head weighs. I never measured the length of the handle. It seems like a decent match. I'll end up cutting a little length off the top. I've got some other pieces like that with the knot hole. I might try one like you suggested with the knot split down the middle. I like to incorporate natural flaws in my bows when I can. I'm finding it fun to do the same thing with handles. This won't be my last one.
 
What kind of finish do you guys usually use? I like to use tru oil or tung oil on bows. I just tried a new matte spray finish that I really like. I was thinking about using it. This handle might look better with a more glossy finish though.
 
If it is going to be used, I just use boiled linseed oil. Urethane type finishes that sit on the top tend to cause blisters. If it is a wall hanger I would go for glossy.
 
Then I would just use BLO. If you plan on using any stain, do that first. A coat every day for a week ought to do it. It will yellow with age so it would end up looking similar to what you have in the photo, only not glossy.
If you want to get crazy with it you can follow the oiling ritual of every day for a week, every week for a month, every month for a year and once every year after that.
 
I've always wanted to try that. It looks great with a light touch, but I've seen a lot that go overboard and end up looking...burnt. looking forward to seeing it.
 
osage outlaw said:
I was thinking about using torch to bring out the grain lines in it before I seal it.
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Square_peg said:
nooooooooooo!!!!!!!!!!
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Yeah, I wouldn't do that either.... too fakey looking for my taste, but tastes do vary and there is nothing wrong with that.

I have seen good results with using a torch and BLO on figured maple gunstocks. It takes considerable practice however, I've never gotten the hang of it.

I really like the one Osage handle I've made. I wish the stuff were more available out here, its great wood for this kind of work.
 
After thinking about it for a while I'm not going to torch it. That would take away from the knot hole. It's unique enough that it doesn't need anything else done to it.

I'm taking it very slow trying to get a good fit in the eye of the head.





 
I think I got a decent fit on the head. I still need to thin down the handle and sand it before I mount it. That will have to wait until my next day off work. The small draw knife worked good for roughing out the eye.









 
I need some help with the proper way to mount the head. Do I just cut a slot in it with a hand saw? What type of wedge should I use? I have some walnut that would contrast well with the osage. How thick should I cut the wedge, 1/4? Should I use wood glue on the wedge when I drive it in?
 
Nice project. Very unique. You have done a good job with it.

Iv never made a handle from scratch but have hung a few axes.
I would say yes, just cut a slot for the wedge (its called the kerf). 6mm / 1/4" would be plenty thick for the wedge looking at how well the head is fitted to the handle. Maybe even too thick. If its too thick and you wont be able to hammer it in very far. Trick is to make sure the wedge tapers fairly slowly so you can get it in nice and deep.

When hanging with a store bought handle often you need to adjust the depth of the kerf by sawing it deeper, so cant see it would be any different when cutting a new one.

I think best practice is to use a wood that's softer than the rest of the handle for the wedge. This is so the wedge "sticks" as it deforms ever so slightly when its hammered in & wont back out. i.e two hard things pushed together can slide whereas if one is soft(er) and one is hard, the soft one will deform and "stick"

Glue should not be needed but there's no right or wrong, whatever your comfortable with / works for you.
 
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