Change scales to titanium on PM2

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knwc

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Feb 15, 2014
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I bought titanium scales (Flytanium) for an unused PM2 I have. I plan to send the scales out to be anodized (Ti Survival) and, when they come back, replace the G10 scales with them. I've read everything and watched every video I could find about swapping scales, and the one issue that always surfaces is the difficulty of separating the scales from and reinstalling new ones on the lanyard hole sleeve. Has anyone out there done the swap with titanium scales? If so, have there been any problems with damaging the sleeve when pressing on the titanium scales? Also, is it basically a press fit? Any advice will be appreciated, as well as any feedback regarding Ti Survival. Thanks
 
I use a big plastic zip tie (the ones you can make cuffs out of) and put it between the liner and the scales. I'll hold the butt end of the knife pointed towards me and carefully use both hands to slide the zip tie towards the lanyard tube. When I get up on the lanyard tube, I'll work the zip tie around the circumference of the tube and kind of pry the other end of the scale. Eventually, the scale will pop straight off with no scars, mars or marks. It makes assembly of new scales much easier than a severely dented lanyard tube by some idiot clamping some vise grips down on it! lol
 
Good idea 91bravo, ill have to try that myself. The lanyard tube is the trickiest part. I have a Husky brand torx driver and it so happens that where the handle in the front of it is the same size as the lanyard tube. So i can put it through the tube and slowly jimmy off the scale with a little finesse.
 
I found that it's much easier to do with the blade still in the knife. It will add the rigidity you need to kind of press down on the pivot end of the scale, when the zip tie is up around the lanyard tube.
 
I just slide my screw driver in between the liner and scales and carefully pop it out by pressing the on the blade end. It is very straightforward. Although mine was not from Flytanium, but from their reputation they have I believe they do a good job on their scales so you shouldn't need to worry about fitting the lanyard loop.

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Is anyone making replacement Ti scales for the PM2 that also delete the liners (AKA frame-lock compression-lock similar to ATR v1)?
 
Thanks to everyone for the feedback. I see now that the disassembly and reassembly can be done successfully with patience and the right tools. That will save me the cost of sending the entire knife and paying someone else to do that work. I appreciate it.
 
if it hasnt already been mentioned, on the newer knives from spyderco they are using red locktite. if you have any issues, dont force the bit. use heat to break the red loctite before unscrewing because they will not warranty it for stripped screws (think they will fix it for a cost tho).
 
Anyone know what torx bit they use? And I had a pair of flex cuffs somewhere, but I can't find them. Will the regular zip ties work? I've got a set of copper scales from Flytanium arriving tomorrow and I am extremely excited.
Also how do you suggest heating the area with the locktite to avoid damaging the stock scales??
 
I just did a scale swap just a week ago and i got them off with my hands. Screws also didnt have loc tite on them. Alot easier then i remembered. And as for the torx bits, i believe the pivot is t10, body screws t9, and pocket clip screws t6.
 
Last week I spoke with Spyderco Warrantee and Repair,,, they told me the Wiha brand Torx is what they use.
They also told me to remove the clip and place the knife down flat on work bench,, push the torx bit down very hard into the screw when breaking loose the red loctite.
Most customer problems are from using poor quality torx bits.

Wiha brand Torx bits are readily available on Amazon from many dealers.

I also use a small soldering tip into the torx screw hole to heat up the screw which helps break the bond with Red grade 262/263 Loctite.

Regards,
FK
 
Last edited:
91bravo said:
I use a big plastic zip tie (the ones you can make cuffs out of) and put it between the liner and the scales. I'll hold the butt end of the knife pointed towards me and carefully use both hands to slide the zip tie towards the lanyard tube. When I get up on the lanyard tube, I'll work the zip tie around the circumference of the tube and kind of pry the other end of the scale. Eventually, the scale will pop straight off with no scars, mars or marks. It makes assembly of new scales much easier than a severely dented lanyard tube by some idiot clamping some vise grips down on it! lol
Click to expand...
Side note this works perfectly for installing washer/dryer belts as well! A bit off topic but it'll save you a $300 technician visit!
 
Sigsog226 said:
And as for the torx bits, i believe the pivot is t10, body screws t9, and pocket clip screws t6.
Click to expand...
T6 clip + T8 scale + T10 pivot. As for the lanyard tube, I use a plastic Menda spudger to slowly pry it loose from the scale/liner.
 
Heating up the torx screws worked awesome. I'm having a super difficult time getting the one liner and lanyard tube separated from the g10 scale... I slipped a zip tie under the scale and I'm trying to work it to the lanyard tube, but it's not moving much at all... I don't want to force anything and I don't want to mess up the tube and have problems getting it into the new scales... even tried heating the tube with the soldering tool... just keep working the zip tie??
 
The lanyard tube is slightly flared as a separate operation when assembled, this makes disassembly difficult.

A friend has a small lathe,, we made up a stepped punch for removal of the lanyard tube.
The small diameter fits into the lanyard hole and punch stepped O.D. is identical to the tube O.D. in the scale hole.
This allows the lanyard tube to be easily removed from the G10 scale without damage to either part.
I use a small hand operated arbor press or you can tap out with a hammer.

The first scale half is easier,, the remaining needs a wooden board with hole to clear the lanyard tube while pressing it out of the scale.

Please do not watch YouTube and use Vise Grips.

Regards,
FK
 
I'd say get something a little thicker than the zip tie. Anything non-metallic so you don't scratch up stuff. Metals expand when heated, so I think heat would be counter intuitive. Try putting it in the freezer for a few minutes. I had an old SKS that I had to put the trigger group in the freezer to push out certain pins.
 
Again you guys are awesome! Zipped some additional zip ties onto the one between the scales and liner and then tossed it in the freezer.. about 20 seconds of working it and they popped off... reassembly was... tedious... took me about 2 hours to get it out together perfectly, but it was so worth it... free dropping and everything is aligned and centered... I love it
 
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