Chaparral Vs Native 5?

Thanks for more great advice. Looks like I'll go for the Chapparal. As Wowbagger said it has the slim handle of the UKPK which is one of my favourite slipjoints. It just vanishes in the pocket. And after a few of the comments I'd really like to try the CTS-XHP steel as well.
Now I'll just have to wait till I have some money. Recently pulled the trigger on a Benchmade 940 and a Fallkniven TK4. And with Christmas coming I'm pretty much cleaned out. But I'll get the Chapparel sometime after the New Year.
 
Recently pulled the trigger on a Benchmade 940
You'll have a great time with that. Seriously good companion until the Chaparral gets ordered.

Speaking of ordered; mine arrives tomorrow; Monday.
You can "get it" vicariously through me.
I'll post pics and everything.
It's the least I can do :p :D
 
Speaking of ordered;
Dang . . . I went back to the web site where I ordered mine to look something up and it said :
Currently unavailable.
We don't know when or if this item will be back in stock.

Looks like I pulled the lever just in time.
 
You can "get it" vicariously through me.
I'll post pics and everything.
It's the least I can do :p :D
OK Irons :
As promised. Photos.
Sorry I'm late, USPS was a day off on their estimated time of arrival.
I was very pouty Monday night; it wasn't pretty.

But I'm all smiles today . . .
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Which knife to buy ? Which knife to buy ?
Why the traditional answer around here . . .
BOTH !
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Some one put up a post asking about a knife rebuild surface to work on . . .
here's the CRK cloth for example.
PS : I just got that red block to put my bits in. It is made of very soft plastic and is easier to get the bits out of than those harder plastic blocks that come with the bits. On the big river for five bucks or so and you get two of these blocks; I took one to work.
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Some one said how tricky it was to get the screw into one of these wire clips. The trick is to thread the screw in about a thread's worth without the clip in place, then slip the clip into place and tighten the screw.
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I must say I was really confused about whether or not this knife had steel liners. That is I was sure it did from the info I read and reviews that said it did except for that one reviewer who said it did not have liners. I was sure it did . . . until I got my knife and looked in there.
On first blush it looks like there are no full liners; maybe partial liners.
Once I took the knife apart my fears were laid to rest.
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I am relieved to say it has good bronze washers.
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And now we come to why I took the knife apart in the first couple hours that I had it . . . you guessed it . . . to reduce some of the excessive spring rate. Minga !
Sal : This isn't a Cold Steel car door brutalizer . . . chill out on all this spring force dude.
PS : I found the spring tweaking to be more tricky than I thought it would be :
  • It is possible to bend the spring straighter and it can actually add lever resistance (it acts like a lever stop) if you don't leave some downward bow in it.
  • The short bend needs to be unbent a fair amount; see the photo after this one.
Kids . . . don't try this at home . . . I AM a professional :p
Seriously though you can get in trouble with this and curiously make the lever feel worse. Good news is you can back track and undo that problem. Maybe don't try this with this knife if you aren't "handy".
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One good way to set the pivot tightness/blade play is to snug up the screw until the knife won't close then loosen it at right about this point until the blade suddenly lets go and gets closed by the spring force. Don't over tighten the pivot to keep it from closing just light torque on the screw is enough.
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I ran out of room for photos in the previous post so here is one more :
I unbent the pocket clip some. Normally I leave a gap between the clip and the scale about the thickness of a business card. With this wire clip, through a few tries, I found that an actual gap wasn't needed but just relaxing the force against the side of the knife was enough.

PPS : If you want the blade to drop, as I do, I found I had to leave one of the small screws in the scale near the pivot end of the scale loose. Just one on one side. If I snugged up that screw the blade wouldn't drop. YMMV.
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Thanks for the photos. January seems an age away but I suppose it's good to look forward to getting it. The carbon fibre version has caught my eye, will probably go for that one if I can.
 
Thanks for the photos. January seems an age away but I suppose it's good to look forward to getting it. The carbon fibre version has caught my eye, will probably go for that one if I can.

You're welcome.

Carbon fiber . . . I don't know . . . picture this :
You just parachuted out of a plane into enemy territory.
You are caught in a tree and need to cut yourself free.
You are wet and your hands are cold from rain.
Do you really want to risk dropping that knife because you didn't get FRN ?
Carbon is cool but . . .

:D:):D
Hahaha Happy Holidays
 
Do you really want to risk dropping that knife because you didn't get FRN ?
Carbon is cool but . . .

:D:):D
Hahaha Happy Holidays

My spring on my FRN, that I just got, is so strong I would drop it trying to get it open before dropping my carbon fiber. The FRN was bought for light work carry because I liked my carbon fiber so much. I bought online, I never thought Spyderco could ship something so dysfunctional. So the Dragonfly and Lil Native will have to carry the load as I decided my next move. I doubt warranty repair will relieve the spring pressure? I guess warranty repair should be the first move regardless, it could be something simple as a burr on the bar on this knife. Any advise helpful, I am not going to dig into it I have to much arthritis in my hands right now.
 
Wowbagger, I’m shocked you resisted mentioning the most excellent Knipex pliers wrench! That’s a game changing tool! Love mine!
 
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