I just got a new baldor buffer but it is not taking any of the polishing compound. I have tried singing loose fibers and using mineral oil to get it to stick but it is still throwing compound everywhere. I was wondering if there is some magic trick to build a good head on these wheels.
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Charging a wheel
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It sounds like your compound is dryed out and no good. Compund has a oil bace to it. what kind of compound did you purchase. I use the Jackson Lee compound. Dark Green, Pink, White, Brown, Gray.
But on the other hand may sure you load your wheels right. Remember the wheels are dry and will soak up the compound and may like dry, as you apply it the wheels will become saturated.
New wheels are hard to load at first. Make sure you have your buffer running at the time you loaded the wheels. And when you are done using the buffer reload the wheels and it will be ready for the next use. I cover my wheels when not in use this will help in reducing the wheels picking up unwanted air dust and steel dust that are in the air. You would not want that. That would only create nice shiny scratches.
Hope this was of help to you. Have safe day out there and God bless. -----------:thumbup:
But on the other hand may sure you load your wheels right. Remember the wheels are dry and will soak up the compound and may like dry, as you apply it the wheels will become saturated.
New wheels are hard to load at first. Make sure you have your buffer running at the time you loaded the wheels. And when you are done using the buffer reload the wheels and it will be ready for the next use. I cover my wheels when not in use this will help in reducing the wheels picking up unwanted air dust and steel dust that are in the air. You would not want that. That would only create nice shiny scratches.
Hope this was of help to you. Have safe day out there and God bless. -----------:thumbup:
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Depending on what kind of buffing compound you're using and the wheel type, you're right...it may be taking nothing on the wheel or very very little. If your compound is a bit on the old side and hard and dried out, then it won't won't well either!
Try a loose cotton wheel or sewn muslin (maybe those are the same thing!).
RJ will have the answer for you!
Try a loose cotton wheel or sewn muslin (maybe those are the same thing!).
RJ will have the answer for you!
you need to be more specific on what type of wheel and compound you are talking about. there are many types of wheels. i have some wheels that take compound easy and some that dont look like they are taking any but they are. an airy buff will take compound a lot different than a hard cotton buff. depending on the compound used, an airy cotton buff will look like there's nothing on it at all. the hard buff will load up quick.
Sorry for not being specific, I have a 1/3 hp buffer that spins at 3600 rpm. The compound I am using is brown tripoli from jantz supply. The bar I got did seem pretty old so im sure it is dry, is there a way to saturate the bar again or the wheel? I have read somewhere that you can coat the wheel in hide or fish glue and the compound will stick better but Im scared it will harden the wheel to much. The wheel that Im trying to load is a concentric sewn muslin buff.
Outline: I don't use tripoli myself, but I think it's a wax based compound. If your wheel has enough momentum, you can run the machine up to full speed, turn it off and really press the compound on the wheel until the wheel stops. But, at 1/3 HP, I'm thinking that's going to be tough, because your wheel is probably smallish.
You might try LIGHTLY spraying the face of the wheel with 3M 777 spray adhesive. Just a little!.
You may also need to "scrub" the compound into the wheel manually.
You might try LIGHTLY spraying the face of the wheel with 3M 777 spray adhesive. Just a little!.
You may also need to "scrub" the compound into the wheel manually.
You might just need to run the machine full up and really melt your way into the bar, then flip the machine off and continue to press the compound in until it stops. I run 1 HP and 1 1/2 HP machines with 10" wheels with a 1" face-they have the moxie to take this kind of pressure.
Buffing is very messy!!!!!!!!! Charging wheels is very messy. I generally have a stripe up the right side of my shirt when I am buffing. Let us know how you make out. Wear your respirator!
Buffing is very messy!!!!!!!!! Charging wheels is very messy. I generally have a stripe up the right side of my shirt when I am buffing. Let us know how you make out. Wear your respirator!
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith
ilmarinen - MODERATOR
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I think you are confusing two different type of wheel/grit situations.
There are charged wheels, in which the wheel is coated with a glue and the dry grit is "painted' on. This is done with the motor turned off,and is let set overnight to dry.The wheel when turned on acts like a 'soft' grinding wheel of the grit it was charged with. This type of charge lasts about a couple of hours of use.( more or less, depending on if you press too hard)
The type of "buffing" done by most makers is with compounds such as you have (Tripoli, green chrome, no-scratch pink, white rouge, etc.). You turn on the buffer and press the bar of compound to the wheel for a few seconds. Often the wheel shows no real change in color. The compound, however, is rubbed off on the tips of the fibers in the wheel, and a blade buffed on the wheel will be smoothed and polished. This type of compound is added by frequently re-applying the compound every 5-10 minutes of buffing (sometimes more often with coarser grits). The wheel will turn black when the blade is pressed against it, showing the wheel is charged. Once broken in ,the wheel charges easily. A brand new wheel seems like it isn't charging, but a few minutes of buffing and it will be broken in. Putting kerosene or mineral oil on a wheel is an old blacksmiths trick from the days when buffing was tougher and the compound bars were rock hard. It is unnecessary and undesirable today.
Buffing on a 3600 RPM wheel is quite dangerous, even with a 1/3HP motor. Most knife buffers are half that speed and throw 10-12" wheels. A 6-8" buffer like your can work, but has limitations and safety issues.
Now, as to buffing blades. A BUFFER WON'T REPLACE PROPER BLADE FINISHING.
You will have to sand the blade smooth and remove all scratches first (The glue-grit type of wheel is used to do this sanding, but few use that method).Hand sanding to at least 400 grit (800-2000 is better) is the simplest way in the beginning. Once the blade is smooth and scratch free you can increase the polish by buffing on increasingly finer grit compound. Black is a coarse emery, Grey is medium, white is fine, green and pink are high polish.
Stacy
There are charged wheels, in which the wheel is coated with a glue and the dry grit is "painted' on. This is done with the motor turned off,and is let set overnight to dry.The wheel when turned on acts like a 'soft' grinding wheel of the grit it was charged with. This type of charge lasts about a couple of hours of use.( more or less, depending on if you press too hard)
The type of "buffing" done by most makers is with compounds such as you have (Tripoli, green chrome, no-scratch pink, white rouge, etc.). You turn on the buffer and press the bar of compound to the wheel for a few seconds. Often the wheel shows no real change in color. The compound, however, is rubbed off on the tips of the fibers in the wheel, and a blade buffed on the wheel will be smoothed and polished. This type of compound is added by frequently re-applying the compound every 5-10 minutes of buffing (sometimes more often with coarser grits). The wheel will turn black when the blade is pressed against it, showing the wheel is charged. Once broken in ,the wheel charges easily. A brand new wheel seems like it isn't charging, but a few minutes of buffing and it will be broken in. Putting kerosene or mineral oil on a wheel is an old blacksmiths trick from the days when buffing was tougher and the compound bars were rock hard. It is unnecessary and undesirable today.
Buffing on a 3600 RPM wheel is quite dangerous, even with a 1/3HP motor. Most knife buffers are half that speed and throw 10-12" wheels. A 6-8" buffer like your can work, but has limitations and safety issues.
Now, as to buffing blades. A BUFFER WON'T REPLACE PROPER BLADE FINISHING.
You will have to sand the blade smooth and remove all scratches first (The glue-grit type of wheel is used to do this sanding, but few use that method).Hand sanding to at least 400 grit (800-2000 is better) is the simplest way in the beginning. Once the blade is smooth and scratch free you can increase the polish by buffing on increasingly finer grit compound. Black is a coarse emery, Grey is medium, white is fine, green and pink are high polish.
Stacy
Well, I finally got the wheels to take the compound. I just added a little bit at first then buffed some scrap steel untill they turned black then added some more compound. Now they have a head built up on them so they take more tripoli and rouge easily. Thanks for helping me out with this problem.
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith
ilmarinen - MODERATOR
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Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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- Aug 20, 2004
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- 38,513
Glad to hear it is working. Don't over charge the wheel or you may get funny polish marks.
Please be careful when buffing.
Wear a heavy leather apron that covers to the neck, a face shield is good, but full eye protection is a minimum. Don't forget a respirator, the grit flying off the wheel is not good to breathe. Never have anyone behind the buffer, and it is best not to have anyone in the room. Turn off the cell phone and any other distractions. The buffer should be at least six feet from any wall if possible at all. NEVER buff with any sort of hood or guard on the buffer. Remember - when (not if) the blade snags, it will do one of several things:
1) It will fly behind the buffer at warp speed.
2) It will hit the wall and ricochet back toward the grinder (and you).
3) It will carry around the wheel and come straight at you (this may happen if the knife bounces off the wall,too.)
4) It will flip around in your hand and remove part or all of a finger.
THIS IS NOT BS, THE BUFFER IS THE SINGLE MOST DANGEROUS MACHINE IN THE SHOP. Please respect it and use it safely. If you have not been shown how to properly buff a blade, you would be best to have a knowledgeable maker give you a quick lesson.
Stacy
Please be careful when buffing.
Wear a heavy leather apron that covers to the neck, a face shield is good, but full eye protection is a minimum. Don't forget a respirator, the grit flying off the wheel is not good to breathe. Never have anyone behind the buffer, and it is best not to have anyone in the room. Turn off the cell phone and any other distractions. The buffer should be at least six feet from any wall if possible at all. NEVER buff with any sort of hood or guard on the buffer. Remember - when (not if) the blade snags, it will do one of several things:
1) It will fly behind the buffer at warp speed.
2) It will hit the wall and ricochet back toward the grinder (and you).
3) It will carry around the wheel and come straight at you (this may happen if the knife bounces off the wall,too.)
4) It will flip around in your hand and remove part or all of a finger.
THIS IS NOT BS, THE BUFFER IS THE SINGLE MOST DANGEROUS MACHINE IN THE SHOP. Please respect it and use it safely. If you have not been shown how to properly buff a blade, you would be best to have a knowledgeable maker give you a quick lesson.
Stacy