Okay, guys, not wanting to start a big argument here, but that same 9 layer sheath (by the way that was a really good job) could have been accomplished at one half or less of that thickness. The same thing that makes wet forming possible is the major part of the answer. Leather stretches beautifully. That sheath was probably made so that there was little or no resistance for the handle inside the sheath. If it had been made with just enough thickness so that the handle had to be forced into the sheath and seemed like it was suck there for life.....that is the starting point. It will stretch to acommodate the handle thickness....not wet forming exactly, but the same general process. Apply a little heat (1875 watt hair dryer) and by the time the sheath is finished the knife will go In and out with just the right friction retention. On Blade sheaths, I use only a single thickness welt for blade up to 5/16" thick.
I use 1/2" wide welts as a standard, so another trick to reduce thickness AT THE EDGE is to skive about 1/2 the thickness (of the welt pieces or wedges when there is more than one) about 1/4" from the outer edge leaving the inner edge at original thickness. The makes the very edge of the sheath thinner without compromising interior dimensions, and will reduce to some degree the thickness for the awl.
The main thing I see though is most of the makers (newer makers) are using way too much thickness with multiple layers of welt and wedges.
Edited to add: For "Stitcher's pinky finger syndrom" Take a pair of good, medium to light weight gloves and cut about 1" off the first two fingers and the thumb. Wear these when you stitch and sore pinky fingers are a thing of the past. You still have the dexterity in the fingers but the fully covered last two fingers are protected.
Paul
