Cheap Hatchet

Some additional thoughts:
If the camp axe is to be "used" as a tool I would recommend that the head be at least 1 1/4 lbs. and the handle at least 14" long (an 18" or 19" long handle with a 1 1/2-1 1 3/4 lb head will do much more work). If you use a smaller axe, it will be difficult to efficiently chop or split anything substantial to build a nice size fire. Here again many of the wood handled axes have the benefit of a wider head for the wood handle, which greatly aids in splitting wood. Axes like the all-metal Estwings have a long tapered head that is too thick at the edge for good cutting (unless you remove a lot of metal) and too narrow at the handle for good splitting. While they may be bullet-proof in construction, they are not that great as a camp axe used for cutting or splitting any amount of wood. They are also unwieldy for choking up to shave or fashion anything.

The detriment of the fiberglass handles is that they are often out of balance with the head, are straight, and sometimes transmit more vibration and flex through the handle.

If you want to protect a wood handle for cutting or splitting, you can wrap it with some good hockey tape, as that will take quite a bit of abuse and will help absorb a missed swing.

For me it is the traditional wood and steel camp axe all the way, if it is a tool I intend to use quite regularly. My steel handled camp axe is reserved for those nasty grubbing jobs.
 
Here is the camp axe I was talking about:
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=147585-302-1116400&lpage=none

Even though it needs some work, it has a good basic design--strong thick handle of the right length and contour, a 1 1/4 lb head, well-balanced between handle and head, decent steel temper for obtaining and retaining good edge, and contoured fairly well for thinning the edge (for cutting) and retaining the thick eye section for splitting. I have one I reworked (thinned the first 1" of the bit, blued this steel for 1", epoxied the top of the eye, oil finished the handle, waxed the works) and with a waxed leather belt sheath I had in stock that fit, I would happily take to the trail with it. The products and tools I had on hand, so my expense was minimal to have a good camp axe.

Also keep in mind that a hawk is really better for lifting scalps, self-defense, and throwing, than cutting and splitting wood. The hawk was developed as a compromise between a weapon and a tool. I would think in a survival situation you would want to err to the tool side, as there are not that many Injuns or Redcoats left in the woods. The cutting edge of a hawk will often tend to flip around in your hand while felling (unless there is a hammer poll)and the eye of the bit at the handle on many hawks is often too abruptly widened for good splitting. In shaving or carving the nearly round handle is harder to keep from turning in the hand. One advantage of the hawk is that a straight tapered handle is the easiest one to replace in the woods should it break.

In a survival situation, having the ability to cut and split wood for a fire is essential. The axe will also be used to fashion any instruments you need from wood. IMO a traditional wood/steel camp axe is preferable to the other options.

As a survival tool which may see a lot of abuse I can understand not wanting to shell out the dough for Gransfors Bruks. So you can go with a "cheap axe" as mentioned above which will require some work to make it trail-worthy or step up to a Wetterling or Vaughn which is more expensive but requires minimal work.

It takes either some time and work or money to have a good camp axe. There is no free lunch for a survival tool.
 
I just came from local Lowe's and noticed that the latest shipment of the Ames True Temper camp axes are from India. They are an abomination of the previous design and workmanship. So I cannot speak of the availability of what I previously mentioned.

However, for about $30. you can get a good Wetterling, Vaughn, or Council Tool axe.
 
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