Cheapest way to sharpen CPM 3V?

bucketstove said:
use something flat, like cereal box, paint stirrer stick ... manilla folder or cardboard on the edge of a table
but you don't really need the compound or high grits (1000/4000 ) for a working edge
, see below for more


sounds a lot like me :) I thought I can't hold an angle ...
turns out its not that important and its not too hard to be able scrape shave arm hair

for example see how to sharpen a knife - Joe Calton
Tyrolit silicon carbide/carborundum 120/400 grit sharpening stone - Stefan Wolf
Silicon carbide / carborundum sharpening stone made by ZAI - Berkovitsa - Stefan Wolf
Norton Econo stone revisited - Neuman2010

that norton economy stone is <$7 at home depot including tax, rub the high spots down with a piece of hacksaw or something, then raise a burr, increase angle and cut it off, slice paper easily, shaves arm hair at least


sharpmaker is a great compact system ... watch the dvd and do what it says, you can get razor sharp beyond scrape shaving arm hair

but like JR88FAN, you just have to believe, think about what you're doing, stick to it, and can do a lot on a simple stone
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Ok I didn't get the Spyderco sharpener, I watched a few videos and it looks like the angle isn't too difficult to control.
I got the 600/1500 grit stone instead of the 1000/4000 stone.

I just have one final question that I hope you can answer here so I don't make a new thread.
My problem right now is that the edge of the knife is rolled at one spot because it hit the granite bench top. Is it possible for me to fix that one spot without having to re-sharpen the whole knife? Do I need a leather strop for that or can I do it with the 1500 stone?
I really like the factory sharpened edge and I don't want to ruin it so I just want to fix that one spot.
 
With some familiarity it is possible to correct dings etc without working too much the rest of the edge, really isn't possible to only correct one small spot. There has to be some overlap. One small ding on a backpacking knife and you like the existing edge - I'd leave it alone for now.

When it gets dull, you can address the ding when you reset the bevels prior to an overall sharpening. The 600 grit should be able to do the repair work and the 1500 make a nice working edge.

Is that combination stone a waterstone or oil stone, ceramic etc? If its a waterstone, you can reclaim the mud that forms on the stone at 1500 grit, smear on smooth poplar or similar wood, and you have a finish strop as well.
 
HeavyHanded said:
With some familiarity it is possible to correct dings etc without working too much the rest of the edge, really isn't possible to only correct one small spot. There has to be some overlap. One small ding on a backpacking knife and you like the existing edge - I'd leave it alone for now.

When it gets dull, you can address the ding when you reset the bevels prior to an overall sharpening. The 600 grit should be able to do the repair work and the 1500 make a nice working edge.

Is that combination stone a waterstone or oil stone, ceramic etc? If its a waterstone, you can reclaim the mud that forms on the stone at 1500 grit, smear on smooth poplar or similar wood, and you have a finish strop as well.
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Thank you very much for the answer. I will try my best to repair only that spot. If I can't do it, I will just leave it since it is not noticeable. Will get to it after a few months when I do a full resharpening of the knife.
Are there any tutorials on how to do ding fixing?
It is a silicon carbide waterstone, pretty cheap but has good reviews.
I decided against getting a leather strop because I don't want to get a mirror razor edge, just a working edge.
 
OK a couple things. There's no tutorial on how to fix a ding. Just a normal sharpening. Dings are the most common cause of dulling. Just sharpen the edge. Also using a strop has nothing to do with making a razor Polish edge. All it does is clean the edge up a bit. Remove any small bits of stubborn burr. Straighten a wire edge which almost everyone has after sharpening. Even Murray Carter. In a small way realign the teeth. The only way a strop is going to Polish the edge is if it's already at 30k grit and you're refining further. It will not remove the bite you're after
 
Vicv said:
OK a couple things. There's no tutorial on how to fix a ding. Just a normal sharpening. Dings are the most common cause of dulling. Just sharpen the edge. Also using a strop has nothing to do with making a razor Polish edge. All it does is clean the edge up a bit. Remove any small bits of stubborn burr. Straighten a wire edge which almost everyone has after sharpening. Even Murray Carter. In a small way realign the teeth. The only way a strop is going to Polish the edge is if it's already at 30k grit and you're refining further. It will not remove the bite you're after
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Ok, I will get one then.
Should I get green or white compound? What is the difference (I just read that green is a bit finer)?
 
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White generally is a little more coarse but less aggressive from what I've read. I use Lee Valley green. Works for me
 
Diamond hones last practically forever if you don't abuse them (i.e., apply too much pressure, keep them clean). I'm still using the DMT bench hones I bought over two decades ago, which makes them a pretty good deal.
 
Alberta Ed said:
Diamond hones last practically forever if you don't abuse them (i.e., apply too much pressure, keep them clean). I'm still using the DMT bench hones I bought over two decades ago, which makes them a pretty good deal.
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I see, that is nice. They have the best value for the money then.
I will get a DMT once the waterstone I bought wears out then.
 
You'll just end up getting one when you want one. I've been sharpening for 7+ years. The Waterstones I got then look about the same as they do now. They water faster than other stones but they still last a loooong time unless you professionally hand sharpen
 
Vicv said:
You'll just end up getting one when you want one. I've been sharpening for 7+ years. The Waterstones I got then look about the same as they do now. They water faster than other stones but they still last a loooong time unless you professionally hand sharpen
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Ok, that is great.
I will receive the waterstone soon and will sharpen a 4116 kitchen knife first to learn and if it goes well I will sharpen my 3V knife.
Hope I didn't annoy you guys with my ignorance, still learning!
 
Everyone is new once. I do have a suggestion though. Google search is your friend. There's probably a 1000 "best way to sharpen" threads out there. Most things have been discussed before. Not giving you a hard time just something to keep in mind
 
Vicv said:
Everyone is new once. I do have a suggestion though. Google search is your friend. There's probably a 1000 "best way to sharpen" threads out there. Most things have been discussed before. Not giving you a hard time just something to keep in mind
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I have been consistently reading and researching over the past few days.
The real reason why I made this thread was to ask about ding fixing because I didn't really find much information about it out there.
Thank you for explaining that I need to sharpen the whole knife to get rid off the ding.
I was kind of shocked when 3V got dinged because I thought it was super tough. Looks like granite is harder.
 
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Lol yes actually granite is harder. That's why it dinged. 3v is tougher. Less likely to chip but bend instead. Steel will almost always lose to stone. Especially something as thin as a knife edge
 
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